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1997 90hp Four stroke doesn't crank when turn the key

jetlee2028

New member
I was testing it on the ground(has the bunny ear). it worked fine, and then when I turned the key again, nothing happened. No cranking sound. What might be wrong? Thanks!
 
Well, it could be a number of things...ignition switch bad....starter bad....broken wire etc...

But I suggest first simply making sure that the battery is fully charged and cleaning both battery cable connections.

You might also want to pull the main positive cable from the starter terminal and clean that connection as well. That is where all voltage gets distributed to the rest of the outboard components.

If you do pull the positive cable from the starter, make sure that it is also disconnected at the battery terminal to prevent a short. I recommend cleaning both ends at the same time for that reason and putting the cable back on the starter first.

If it doesn't crank after that, then some testing with a voltmeter is likely to be required.

Good luck.
 
Well, it could be a number of things...ignition switch bad....starter bad....broken wire etc...

But I suggest first simply making sure that the battery is fully charged and cleaning both battery cable connections.

You might also want to pull the main positive cable from the starter terminal and clean that connection as well. That is where all voltage gets distributed to the rest of the outboard components.

If you do pull the positive cable from the starter, make sure that it is also disconnected at the battery terminal to prevent a short. I recommend cleaning both ends at the same time for that reason and putting the cable back on the starter first.

If it doesn't crank after that, then some testing with a voltmeter is likely to be required.

Good luck.
Thanks for the reply! But I was just able to start the engine and test it on the ground, and then the start doesn't do anything(not even crank). I am pretty sure the battery is good. The trim works, the bilge pump works... just start ignition doesn't have anything.
 
Hmmm.
I guess, if you're confident in the battery and connections, I might start looking for voltage at strategic points.
But, backing up just a bit....
Did you always get the "lamp check" on the warning display when you cycled the key to on? If so, is that still occurring?
That would at least tell you that the switch is getting power.

Do you have and know how to use a voltmeter? If not, how about a 12 volt test light?
 
You said that you checked 4 fuses and they "looked" fine.
Sometimes a fuse can look good but still be bad. When there's a problem it's best to remove each one and check it with an ohmmeter or a test light.
 
Thanks for all the reply! Yesterday I tried again, it works ok now. is there any auto protection scheme in Honda 90hp 1997? This happened before. Last time, it started fine, but when I put more throttling, it auto shuts off, so I had to use 2mph to cruise the lake. But after a few days when I tried it again, it works fine.

Is there any auto protection in Honda to prevent you going from 0 to too fast? In both times, I think I might use more throttling to start the engine(mine is carbureted one, so I have to push in the button, and add some throttling to start the engine).
 
No, it's not a "auto limiting" program. You have an intermittent electrical issue causing this.

My bet is that it is probably in the remote control. The wires for for that shifter/throttle bend every time you use it and that can cause chafing of the insulation and breakage of the wires. It's likely going to take some digging around in there to find the problem.

Yes, it's just a guess and not what you want to hear but it's all I can offer on this.

Good luck.
 
Are you saying it quits/stalls when you try to go over 2 mph while it's acting up?

If so, when was the last time your carbs were cleaned?
 
No, it's not a "auto limiting" program. You have an intermittent electrical issue causing this.

My bet is that it is probably in the remote control. The wires for for that shifter/throttle bend every time you use it and that can cause chafing of the insulation and breakage of the wires. It's likely going to take some digging around in there to find the problem.

Yes, it's just a guess and not what you want to hear but it's all I can offer on this.

Good luck.
Thanks a lot for the hints! Will replacing the remote control to eliminate this intermittent issue? Will any remote control work for my Honda motor?
 
Are you saying it quits/stalls when you try to go over 2 mph while it's acting up?

If so, when was the last time your carbs were cleaned?
I bought this last year, so it is probably a year ago.

Yes, it quits when I tried to go over 2mph, but after a few days, it works again. And it's never happened but other random things came up :)
 
The problem happens again. I tested successfully in the service center, but when I hauled the boat back, it doesn't crank at all when I turned the key. And this time, I waited for 24 hours, and it still happened. Any more ideas? Thanks!
 
Trailer to the shop....bouncy bouncy, bouncy....HEY! it WORKS!

Trailer it back home....bouncy, bouncy, bouncy....HEY! It DOESN'T work!!!

Loose connection somewhere.

Maybe a bad ignition or magnetic switch.
 
I believe it is very likely some loose connection issue. How to find out if it is a bad ignition or magnetic switch? Are they in the engine or near the key?
 
The ignition switch is actually the part that the key inserts into.

The magnetic switch is the part near, or attached to, the starter motor that the POSITIVE battery cable goes to.

But those are just guesses. The problem could be a loose connection....wire end....plug connector....etc.....anywhere in the starting circuit. It can be a tedious process to locate an issue like this using a wiring diagram. If you don't have a diagram or know how to follow one, it could be almost impossible to find.
 
I opened the engine cover and tried to identify the issue. Can somebody tell me what this is? And it seems it is leaking a bit. Is this a big problem? Thanks!



IMG_0040.jpg


IMG_0042.jpg
 
Well, that looks like the starter and solenoid assembly to me. And, it looks like it's been pretty dang hot too!

I think that you may have just found your cranking/starting problem.
 
For reference, see items 6 and 42 in the link below


Item 6 is the gray colored cable cover at the top right of your top photo.
Item 42 is the yellow fuse holder cover at the bottom left of your top photo.

Item 23 in the link below is the gray colored, heat distorted component that is the focus of your bottom photo.

 
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