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1993 150HP V6 dies off idle

C

Cactus Rat

New member
During my annual clean and tune I noticed that there was a fuel leak between the fuel bowl and the lid of the vapor separator. The screws must have vibrated loose after 23 years of use, anyway there was a substantial fuel leak. Pumping the fuel line bulb caused fuel to spray out of the seam and the bulb would not hold pressure. I tightened the screws and it still leaked so I ordered and replaced the gasket between the bowl and lid. Leak stopped and now the fuel line bulb holds pressure. Engine fires and idles just as always. The problem is that once you move the throttle off idle the engine dies. It dies if the gear case is engaged or disengaged. Also it will only idle for two minutes at the most and then die. It will start right up again but only idle for a minute or two. I am sure it is a fuel problem and has to do with me replacing the gasket but what did I do wrong and how do I correct the problem? I did not remove the pump and mounting plate from the engine and I only disconnected two lines from the cover to have enough room to remove the old gasket and slip in the new gasket. I have triple checked all the hoses and wires and all are still connected. What do I do to correct this problem???
 
Model and Serial would help. I believe that is a plastic housing and in some cases has been known to warp. How is the compression in all the cylinders and the spark? Will start with the basics to make sure the general health internally and in the ignition system is good. Pics are also a huge help if you can post them!

This almost sounds like the 90 I'm working on with an open question, if it's got the OIS ignition system then I think people will start chiming in with the optical sensor as a culprit but that's only my 2 cents. Lets start with what engine you have via the model number.
 
Its should be a 60 degree with vapor separator, check spark as if setting the shift switch could be stuck and motor only running on one bank..
 
The motor is a TE150GLETR. It was running fine before I replaced the gasket. I have been looking at diagrams. How does the Vapor Separator work and could it prevent fuel from reaching the carbs? Could I have screwed up the float and needle and cause a problem?
 
Further information - the motor has been running fine - for years. 3 weeks ago I ran for an hour at 50mph with no problem. Then 2 weeks ago I changed spark plugs and water pump and again it ran fine for two days of fishing. I noticed the fuel leak when I was changing the spark plugs so I ordered the new gasket and replaced it. Took the boat to the lake and it will only idle. Push the throttle forward or backward and the motor dies. Acts like there is no fuel. I just went out and checked. Pump in-line fuel bulb and it has pressure. Loosened the nut holding the fuel filter and it has pressure. The filter is clean buy the way. Pumped the bulb again and checked the fuel lines at the fuel rails on the carbs and they both have pressure. I also just checked the throttle and it works both the linkage to the carbs and the timing advance. Could I have messed up the float and needle for the Vapor Separator when I changed the leaking gasket and that is causing the problem?
 
Thank you all for the information. Based on the info in the supplied link I take it that if there is enough fuel in the bowl the float in the Vapor Separator Chamber will be fully in the up position and the needle should be seated and closed. Is this correct?

If the needle is seated then the vapor system is closed. If you squeeze the in-line fuel bulb should it be full and hard and holding pressure at this point in time?
Mine is not indicating to me that there is a leak in the system. Is this a reasonable assumption on my part?
 
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