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1992 Alpha one prop issue.

W

Westernlife

Member
Go ahead laugh at me I know what a dumb@$$ the problems you could have got yourself into. Last night I took a bit of a gamble and bought another boat, a 1992 Sea Ray Pachanga. With a mercruiser 5.7 and alpha one outdrive. The guy jad it still winterized so he was only willing to hook up the cooling hoses and run it for about a minute with no muffs just to show it starts runs and catches fwd and reverse. As he didn't want to run water through it incase it didn't sell which is yes sketchy but also understandable as he didn't want to pay to have it winterized again if it didn't sell. There's a few small issues with the boat right away but over all its in great shape. I'm hoping it's just the small things like he claims. Firstly the Prop, he said he put a new one on and dropped the nut (not sure if he was doing it in the water or what) he claims the old one was a castle nut with a pin and he now just has a locknut on it, but from most pics I see and forums I read that's supposedly what os suppose to be on there? The main issue is that the prop has a slight bit of drag and feels and looks like its rubbing on the housing at the back, it's definitely not internal as If I pull out hard on the prop it doesn't rub anymore. He says he thinks he just overtightened it and it's because it's the wrong nut he claims he's 100% positive it's the right prop, I haven't had a chance to take it off yet and look but i assume it isn't suppose to ride against the housing at the back? Is there suppose to be a washer or something behind the prop that maybe he also dropped or forgot to put on? If I tug hard I can pull the prop slightly out and like I said it doesn't rub anymore, I'm talking like a mm of movement same thing all my outboards have. (I'm more of an outboard guy) there no extreme movement fwd and back like something in the drive is worn or side to side like it's the wrong prop and the hub is loose seating too far down. Can I just lose the nut put a washer behind it and see if that helps? May sound dumb I'm just newer to I/O boats. I have a few pics but I'm not sure if they show what I mean by rubbing very well, I'll see about getting better ones later.

Also give me the run down on boats Like this, pretend I'm a total noob what am I suppose to do for general running, like when should I use the blower etc. Also where is the fill/check plug on these lower units?

20230623_104545.jpg
 
Hope you got a 'really good deal'....

you should be able to get the owner's manual from the mercruiser www site...the serial number on the engine and the outdrive will be needed for future parts so get them and have them handy...basic maintenance data should be included as well...you will also want to get the factory service manuals if you plan to do further work on it...the aftermarket manuals are typically 'light' on content and not worth the associated hassles...

the skeg has been destroyed and that typically comes from what i will call bad operating habits...as to the 'rubbing' - it should NOT be happening. the prop used should have a matching thrust hub that goes on first...I'd guess it is the wrong one (doesn't match the prop) or it could be missing.
Based on the picture, the prop doesn't look in great shape either...if its aftermarket, it may be more challenging to determine the correct thrust hub.

The story with the prop nut having a cotter pin is BS, for this drive anyhow...it should have a locknut that sits inside of a tabbed washer...once tightened, one or more of the tabs should be bent up to secure the nut...
 
makomark said:
Hope you got a 'really good deal'....

you should be able to get the owner's manual from the mercruiser www site...the serial number on the engine and the outdrive will be needed for future parts so get them and have them handy...basic maintenance data should be included as well...you will also want to get the factory service manuals if you plan to do further work on it...the aftermarket manuals are typically 'light' on content and not worth the associated hassles...

the skeg has been destroyed and that typically comes from what i will call bad operating habits...as to the 'rubbing' - it should NOT be happening. the prop used should have a matching thrust hub that goes on first...I'd guess it is the wrong one (doesn't match the prop) or it could be missing.
Based on the picture, the prop doesn't look in great shape either...if its aftermarket, it may be more challenging to determine the correct thrust hub.

The story with the prop nut having a cotter pin is BS, for this drive anyhow...it should have a locknut that sits inside of a tabbed washer...once tightened, one or more of the tabs should be bent up to secure the nut...
Click to expand...
The skeg is yes pretty chewed up but I can get bolt on ones, my other boat with a 85hp outboard has one because when I got it the skeg was chewed to sh also. Just like with any purchase the deeper I dig the more I'm finding. But any boats around me (and by that I mean within a 5hr drive) that were between 6-10k all needed work, some were alot of interior work others were little interior and little motor... Any other of this exact boat are going for no less then 15k, most are around 20 or higher. So are pretty much all "cigar/performance" boats. I paid 6,500 for this one. Might not be the best deal but the interior is clean and the rest of the boat if it works is decent, pretty solid.
 
No mercruiser that i know uses a cotter pin and castle nut. Mercs use a nylock nut.
Pull the prop and post some pics of whats there

search " mercruiser service manual" you should find something there
 
I suggest that you get the skeg welded on, if the housing is still good. Echoing what's been written...missing the thrust washer between prop and drive, but that prop is toast. Maybe look for a good used lower? The Alpha ones are not very dear these days...maybe a couple hundred.
I would replace every bit of rubber...hoses belts bellows impeller, etc. I would change the engine oil and put on new filter. Use straight SAE 30 heavy duty engine oil (Walmart, Tractor Supply, NAPA) and change it twice a year. Once going in for the summer and once coming out for the winter. New gas/water separating filter. New cap rotor points condenser wires plugs. Thermostat too. You may want to consider a new lower shift cable as long as you have the drive off for the bellows. Oh and new hose clamps. Get the good AWAB ones from Jamestown Distributors not the hardware store kind that ruin the hose when you tighten them. I will assume you are in fresh water so the exhaust manifolds and risers are probably OK but maybe worth pulling apart for a visual and new gaskets. Check the flapper valves in the y pipe.
Yes it is a bit of cheddar to do all that but it's the necessary thing with a new to you boat so that you know when and how the maintenance has been done. Even if it means you don't get in the water this year, do it for the safety of the Swedish Bikini Tanning Team that you'll be hosting next outing. Keep a maintenance log in a little book or on a spreadsheet. Be safe, have fun. In that order.
Blower: run for 5 minutes before starting the engine to remove possible fuel vapors from the bilge area. That's what it is for, so you don't go boom when you hit the starter.
 
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