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1991 25hp Johnson Tracker: Power head replacements

A

akarbarz

Contributing Member
Hello everyone.

I have a 1991 25hp Johnson. Model # TJ25ELEID. One of the head bolts snapped off and while drilling and using an EZ out(lesson learned), a piece of one of the bolt holes cracked off as you can see. I got it welded, and the weld didnt hold either. Im giving up on the power head after weeks of messing with it and was hoping someone could direct me/help me figure out what power heads/years/hp will replace my current one? Or do you recommend just selling it for parts? Its very unfortunate since the motor runs so well. Thank you in advance!
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Pull the powerhead, take to a machine shop, have them drill hole deeper, have a Keensert installed and use a longer bolt to attach head.
 
I likely could weld it, retap, and you will never ever know it happened. I think you brought it to the wrong shop. If you can get a closer picture, I will make a more accurate determination. Should you decide on another powerhead, I have a beauty here.....low hours.....the dummy ran it with water in lower unit and froze up shaft bearing, then started robbing parts off it. This repair should be accomplished by an expert, skilled in the use of a quality mig......not something from Harbor Freight. Hope this other guy didn't destroy it....I need a better photo. Might even do a trade in with you.
 
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I agree. I maybe got to about 12ft/lbs of torque on the bolt before the weld came loose. Here are a couple close ups(before weld).
1.PNG 2.PNG
I only have one photo of the broken weld(and am currently back at university so wont be able to get more for a bit). But you can see it broke right along the original edge.
3.PNG
When the original weld came loose, i tried my best to get it to work with threaded inserts, helicoil, etc. to no avail and now the weld is completely shot as you can see. And in the case you are willing to go some trade route here is a video of it running when I was checking to see if the weld held(obviously it didn't). Ignore all the smoke lots of fogging oil has been used haha.

Thank you for your time, I appreciate it.
 
This could have had the hole partially webbed to the outer wall. Then drilled and tapped deeper, then a longer bolt....all carefully measured as well as migged using pure argon, at the correct pressure for the task....and the correct alloy. Comes down to experience and patience. I will check my powerhead compression tomorrow, once I remove lower unit/driveshaft, but it is a beauty. Probably should keep it myself as this is what we run up at our Ontario Camps. However, haven't needed a powerhead in 56 years of camp operations. Just can't wreck one....guess I'm too careful and Amsoil 100:1 sure been working well the last 44 years too. Dad did crack a 40 Evinrude Lark back around 1966, but that was from trapped water in the block over winter. Stupid mistake, he left it tilted up a bit too far on the boat. I could have welded it with the equipment in my shop today. Dad was really angry at himself.IMG_2814 (2).JPG
That's him with the hat, me looking at the ground. Sorry, he was a great man, could repair "almost" everything.
 
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Currently at this stage I tend to break more things than actually fixing them, but I'm going to say its hopefully just part of the learning process. This was my first rebuild, completely rebuilt a little pontoon and that outboard and it was going well up to that bolt. Welding is definitely a very useful skill/trade to know a lot more complex than I ever realized, was tempted to pull the head again and see if I could get the guy to reweld it for cheaper/free but decided its not worth the time to have him maybe get it right the second time. Gonna look into that Amsoil, currently just use Quicksilver marine engine oil
 
Certainly not an easy task drilling that broken bolt. Gotta spend money for a couple extremely good quality bits. First a 1/8, then a 1/4. Use a helper to guide you straight as your drilling with lite oil. Aluminum is not always pure. Many alloys can foul you up. I like outboards.....very nice aluminum for the most part to repair.
 
Need to take powerhead off and take to machine shop...very easy fix IF you have the tools. Mill the broken area away, and weld a piece of round stock to machined area, drill and tap correct size and surface the entire face. It can even be bridged to outer block as long as water can flow around cylinder.. Another solution is Devcon aluminum epoxy. Remove heli coil, lightly surface all contact areas, fill and build area back up then drill and tap. The military and commercial airlines use it in the repar of engines in bearing areas..A friend at ANG turned me on to it!! Loved post 911 as could get MRE's, Turbo propshaft fluid, torque wrench's calibrated( still do takes longer now) all types/sizes of teflon O-rings.
 
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Yeah i dont have the tools to do that. Thats a good idea. I have been debating if i take it somewhere again if I should just have them weld a stud in there. In terms of epoxy ive tried a lot of them(JB weld, loctite metal epoxy, and permatex) none of them were strong enough. I'll consider using Devcon depending on how much a machine shop quotes me.

Thanks again!
 
I can take a look later here on a parts block. Raquel wants to go fishing.....she unplugged my air compressor. That means do it NOW.
 
Hey guys, I had question that maybe one of you can help me with. A guy is selling a 35hp Johnson near me for $150 might be worth it for the powerhead. Only problem is im not 100% sure itll fit my motor. Its a 1995-1996 35hp johnson model# AML35D. Looks like these motors were made for the military.

It seems as if the powerhead *should?* match up to my midsection from photos I looked up online. However, this outboard is pull start would be as easy as putting my electronics and starter on it to convert it to an electric start? Or am I vastly simplifying things. Thank you!
 
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