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1989 Johnson 110HP Overheating

"Let us forget the 'by-pas

"Let us forget the 'by-pass holes or relief holes', of no importance at the moment.
The prop will not make the engine 'overheat', providing You get a max (WOT) rpm 4500 - 5500.
Test the tempswtches: Take the brown lead going to each switch to ground and the alarm should go off. There is a connector about 5 cm from each switch.
To test the switch itself, they have to be removed, dropped in a water, heated to 85C and mesured with an OHM meter. At about 85C (lowest) there should be continuity.
Suggest You just test the electric part (grounding) as You might ruin the switch when removing. When ign is put 'ON' there should be a short beep from the horn. Ign 'ON' and temp lead grounded it should be continous."
 
"Thanks Moreton,

Will test

"Thanks Moreton,

Will test now - temp sesnor.

Will take boat out for spin in a few hours and let you know of results.

I have been warned elsewhere not to use my SS viper prop onthis rig/motor as it will place too much strain on powerhead - thoughts?

Cameorn"
 
"I have used a lot of Vipers i

"I have used a lot of Vipers in my time, preferred them over Rakers. But it all depends on Your achieved RPM at WOT. At normal cruising wheight, try to get 5000+. Up or down 1" pitch normally changes rpm with 200. If Your Viper is a 19" You will minimum loose 400rpm, probably closer to 500 if going from Alu 17"."
 
"Team!

SUCCESS!! WE DID IT

"Team!

SUCCESS!! WE DID IT MORETON !! NO OVERHEATING!

Just got back from a session in the bay and beyond - no overheating!

I could'nt wait to tell you when I landed back at the ramp!

I did test/and confirmed the water temp sensor earthing before I left home.

It has been a long haul team and I want to say thank you to all who has stuck by me in this epic investigation - especially Moreton.

I had no overheat alarm go off and travelled for around 1 hour off and on at between half to WOT. I did choose not to go right down to WOT because I have that huge 17p prop on and scared of any damage I may cause to powerhead - but I did get pretty close to WOT.

I strongly believe we have to debrief and capture these key learnings.

To start with - here is what I did:

1) Dropped bottom leg and replaced water pump kit, water inlet screen and seal for gear case to inner housing (Item 30 on BRP Catalogue)
2) Removed heads and water jackets and removed all salt deposits.
3) Removed all salt build up from external cylinder walls.
4) Replaced water deflector tubes.
5) Replaced entire t-stat assy including new HP poppet valves (but retained existing 8 month old t-stats).
6) Flushed powerhead with a hose up water tube and confirmed water flow.
7) Confirmed operation of water temp sensor.
8) Cleaned/dried spark plugs.

Maybe a whole combination of these changes helped, maybe only one - unfortunately, I am unable to pinpoint cause of overheating but I am leaning towards a blocked air vent hole in the valve body in the t-stat assy.

Would appreciate your view/summary of what has transpired so it can be captured for future use/learnings for the next poor sucker like myself..

BTW - I had trouble starting again after spending 2 hours on a deserted island. It seemed it was flooded. What I did was disconnect fuel line and allow air to enter when cranking a few times - and relying on the fuel already in the carbies. good as gold!

Next step is to apply the correct prop and acquire a tacho.

My next adventure (on a new thread) - carbie kit changeout - as I have both kits awaiting install....

Cameron"
 
"Moreton, is it dangerous for

"Moreton, is it dangerous for powerhead to use a prop that is 1 or 2 P higher than recommended for an engine?

Cam"
 
"Congratulations!
It was prob

"Congratulations!
It was probably a combination of all of the above, but probably getting the water pressure right and sealing of the thermostat system that keeps the block properly filled with water.
What would be of interest is if You could post a pick of all 4 spark-plugs?
Did You notice any change in idling caracteristics?
As for rev-counter You may even borrow a timing light with built-in rev counter and hook onto one of the spark-plug leads for control of max rev. Run with cover ON!!!
If max rpm range is not obtained or passed it will dammage the engine so I suggest You try to get that checked out as soon as possible. The engine has max power at @5000, going above or beyond You loose power.
Before You go on with the carbs I suggest You get a decent manual for the engine as it might need a complete syncronization of timing and carbs."
 
Thanks Moreton.

Will try to

Thanks Moreton.

Will try to get a pici of the plugs for you.

Idling seems more even and consistent.

How do I control max rev with the built in rev contuer - hooked up to a plug?

I don't intend to run agin until I get a lower pitch prop. The engine was linked/synced by a dealer in Jan this year. I do have a manual with sync/lync isntructions.

I have carbie kits ready for install - what do i do with these kits?

Cam
 
"A built-in rev counter is not

"A built-in rev counter is not hooked to the spark-plug wire, that was onluy a suggestion when using a timing light.
For permanent built-in You need a counter that takes the signal from the battery charge sytem. You may either pull it out from the remote-controle or cable harness. grey wire to signal, then pos and neg (purple and black). Don't order prop until You have checked the revs with what You have.
If engine performs ok, particularly at idle, keep the carb gaskets kits for the time being. Never mess with things that works."
 
"Any Evinrude/Johnson dealer s

"Any Evinrude/Johnson dealer should have them. You need the 'old' type, not System Check counters, however You may even use the System Check counters as well as they have connections for the old system.
But any counter that utilises alternator pulses (6) may be used."
 
"Tachometer/revcounter same pa

"Tachometer/revcounter same part -different names - For Evinrude/Johnson 110-89.
I searched e-bay Australia did not find any, and a couple of other places. Do You have any outboard deler in the vicinity? Most of them uses the same principle, some with different pulse settings, but that is normally adjustable at the back. Any outboard 'junk-yard' around? If You find one 'locally', borrow and test! Even some Yamaha rev-counters may be used. For testing You may even use a multimeter with Hz (AC frequensy) reading. (One rev/sec should read 6 Hz)."
 
"Depends on the multimeter, bu

"Depends on the multimeter, but the signals are in the grey cable.
My 'old' meter I had I used the 'grey' as pos and black as ground then switched to 'Hz-reading'. However I've come accross meters that only needs the signal (grey) and uses internal batteries for plus/ground. Check the meter instructions."
 
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