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1989 Evinrude V4 110 Overheating...tried eveything

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qm3gallatin

New member
I have a 1989 Evinrude E110 V4 that keeps overheating on muffs. I hadn't used the boat in a while so started off by installing a new water pump set, then thermostats, then water deflectors, then poppet valves. With each new installation the engine still overheated, with both heads getting hot to the touch. Someone suggested dropping the lower unit and running water up the water pipe to see if there was a leak, but when I did so I really couldn't tell much. My fear is there is salt residue at the top of the block plugging up the passages. If so, can this be cleared out? Can I get to it by removing the flywheel and taking off the water jacket cover at the top of the block? If not, can I pour any mixture into the water passages at the top of the exhaust housing to dissolve the stuff?

Also, the manual for this engine instructs to use Sealant 1000 when installing the pump. When I started this whole endeavor, I wanted to do so but couldn't find that anywhere, and after talking to various mechanics who all said no sealant is needed ("I've done hundreds of water pump installs and I'm telling you it's not necessary..."), I didn't use any. Now I'm thinking that it was needed, so I finally got some Scotch 3M #847. I just hate the thought of going back and using that sealant on the install only to be disappointed again, so I want to make sure I have all my bases covered with anything else I can try while the motor is apart.

Engine model is E110TLCEM

By the way, I can't find any mechanic who will work on this engine due to it's age, or even return my phone calls about it, so any help would be appreciated. Otherwise my only recourse may be to get rid of the boat, as I am paying for storage.

Thanks!
 
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Many mechanics will not work on any engine over 10 years old, not because the engines were bad designs back then, but rather they just don't know how to fix them. They're were so many changes over the years and the mechanics of today just don't have the time to study and learn the technology of yesteryear. Then there is us... the mechanics of yesteryear, ones that started out in the trade back in the 50's and 60's, (Now retired) but capable of working on and fixing (if parts are available) engines much older than you are... BUT... there is no way we would attempt to repair or tell someone how to repair many of these late model outboards for obvious reasons.... a reverse scenario.

Now, that being said.... your engine is an excellent design and the problem shouldn't be that hard to solve, however and unfortunately, it requires double-checking much of your work.

The water pump job... I always sealed my pump installation jobs and suggest you do just that... and while you're at it, measure the distance from the bottom of the water tube to the bottom surface of that long exhaust housing. This measurement is to make sure that the water tube will be inserted the proper distance into the water pump housing grommet. Many pumps are installed, not having the water tube inserted properly into the pump grommet and the result is a bent water tube, half installed, and blowing water elsewhere besides up the tube.

Also, it's very easy to goof when installing the impeller housing, having that goofy looking "O" Ring slide out of the groove. Sealer 847 will be fine to use.

NOTE 1: Marprox Sealer 1000 and Boat Armor Sealer 1000 is no longer available to my knowledge.
NOTE 2: OMC Adhesive is now Bombardier 3M Product #847 and may be listed as Scotchgrip 847, part number 776964

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The "Water Deflectors"....... Did you install them or have someone else do that job? Regardless, if double-checking and re-working the water pump still results in having the engine overheat, I would strongly suggest that you pull the cylinder heads and double-check that work. They must be the proper length to force the water flow to take its proper route. What condition were the original deflectors in... still round, sort of flat, really flat and swollen sideways? Here a tip on that job:

********************
(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficiently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.


Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the rubber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.


Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending above the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

NOTE 1: In having the cylinder heads off, you've got a clear good view of the water passage.

NOTE 2: Carefully inspect the sealing surfaces of the crankcase (block) and the cylinder heads. Those surfaces must be perfect, smooth, no corrosion, no little gaps. If there is a slight imperfection that will allow the combustion slide across into the water passage, that results in a stalemate.... water coming up, combustion going down... sometimes water may enter the cylinder ever so slightly. At any rate, the result is a stalemate and a overheated engine!

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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Hopefully the above is enough and it solves your problem... let us know what you find.
 
Thanks for the post. We actually did everything that you suggest, except for sealing the water pump with the #847. We are getting ready to do that now. We even bought the water deflectors from MarineEngine.com and installed them per J. Reeves direction.

We think the problem may be with the water tube, as it looks like there is a bend near the top. Without knowing what it is supposed to look like, it's hard to tell. We did notice when we took the old water pump out to replace it, that someone who installed the pump previously put the water tube grommet at the pump end into the housing cover from the outside, rather than installing it from underneath the cover per the manual and the diagram. If it as installed from the outside, or about the width of the grommet too high, then when the assembly is inserted onto the tube, it could jam the tube up and bend it at the top. If we then go and install a new grommet in the new pump properly, at the correct location, it may not seat and seal anymore if the tube has been shortened enough by the bend. That may be where we are loosing water. We also think there is a leak of water at the bend of the tube.

(I've read that there are holes sometimes drilled in the top of the water hose to spray cooling water over the engine mounts. Is that true? And if so, I would think that might be a easy place for the tube to be bent. No one else has mentioned any of these holes.)

Is there any way we can pull this tube out from below to check it for damage? Or do we have to remove the powerhead to get to it? I also note that the 20" version we need is no longer available. Could we go with a 25" tube and cut it? We are running out of options.

Thanks again for your help!
 
You state that its hot to the touch..does the actual alarm sound??? Try running it in a barrel as I have seen engines oveheat on muffs due to aeration(frost proof faucet) and city pressures
 
The water tube is one hellava job to replace... I hope you don't need to do that as it involves removing the lower unit of course, then removing the powerhead, then removing the adapter place the powerhead attaches to. The water tube is attached to the bottom side of the adapter plate with a housing secured by two screws.

Yes it's true that most water tubes have a hole drilled in them in the upper portion. That feature is to help cool the long inner exhaust housing.

From what you've said in your post #3, I'm sort of leaning towards that tube not seating properly.

I've straightened bent tubes (nothing to lose trying) bu using long nose pliers to grip and apply downward pressure to the tube while using a piece of wood or whatever to apply side pressure on a tube that's had its normal bend compromised.

NOTE: Most water tubes do have a bend in them as you're probably aware. When in doubt, go with the side of caution and check with a dealership as they usually have a few of them laying around that you could view to get an idea of how that normal bend looks.

Somebody forced a grommet over the outside of the water pump housing? That had to take some doing! :)
 
At this point we are keeping our fingers crossed that it was simply the lack of sealant on the pump housing that is causing the problem. Now that I know there are supposed to be holes at the top of the water tube, it's not a leak I see there. Once I get the mirror up in that area I can confirm. The bend that I see there may be normal.

As far as the grommet, sorry for any confusion...I'm new at this. The previous installer did not put the grommet over the "outside" of the water pump housing. Forgive me as you probably know all this, but on our motor the "impeller housing cover" is a separate attachment, mounted to one side of the top of the water pump, that in the manual is described as a grommet retainer and water tube guide. Going by the manual as we did, the proper way to install it is to insert the grommet into this retainer from the bottom, then screw the retainer to the water pump housing. The previous installer screwed down the retainer to the water pump housing, then put the grommet into the tube guide from the top. I thought this might have jammed the water tube and caused it to bend at the top, but that might not be the case. When you lift and install the lower unit, it might not make any difference whether the grommet is higher or lower, as long as there is a snug fit on it with the water tube. I sometimes look for problems when there are none!

We will see what happens tomorrow night when we try running the motor again. Thanks again for all your help!
 
qm3gallatin said:
Going by the manual as we did, the proper way to install it is to insert the grommet into this retainer from the bottom, then screw the retainer to the water pump housing.
Click to expand...

I'm so glad you mentioned the above. Either you misread the manual or the manual needs correcting.

Yes, I'm aware that there is a black plastic single tube guide that is attached to the impeller housing with a screw. And if I'm reading the above right... you are forcing the grommet up into the bottom of this small plastic guide, then attaching the guide along with the grommet to the impeller housing with that single screw.

If this is correct, then I strongly suspect that this is your problem. With the grommet shoved up into that short guide, the water tube would be pressing down on the edges of the grommet, folding it over into the water pump opening, effectively creating a shut off valve.

The grommet is supposed to be inserted into the water pump with the smaller inside end facing up (put a little grease on it).... then the small black plastic tube guide is screwed down on top of it. Then the tube slides down inside the guide, then into the grommet. Check the measurement to make sure that the tube will be entering the grommet.
 
Sorry...I think I've been at this too long today and everything is running together in my head...

Yes, I did put the grommet into the pump housing, and then screwed down the tube guide on top of it. I did NOT shove the grommet into the bottom of the tube guide as I described.

I DID, however, put the grommet in upside down. I had the wide end facing up, thinking the water tube would fit into an increasingly narrower opening. You instruct the smaller end needs to be facing up, so I turned it over. Glad I didn't put the lower unit back on already!

Hope that's it for now...thanks for saving me again!
 
We have now put the lower unit back on after sealing the water pump and it still overheats after about 2 minutes. There is less water leaking out from around the seam where the lower unit is bolted on. We are going to remove the thermostats tonight and briefly run it to see if water even makes it to the thermostats, as there may be a blockage in the powerhead.

Is it possible, speaking from a very basic solution, if the idle we are running the engine at is too low to properly cool it? Our RPM gauge does not work so we can't tell how high its running at idle. Initially the pee stream is fairly strong and steady but after about 90 seconds it starts to sputter and cough like it's being cut off someplace, and soon afterwards the engine overheats. I have the reference RPM numbers for proper idle speed in the manual at home.

The port side head gasket was at a temp of 190 and the starboard side was at a temp of 197. The exhaust cover was also at a temp of 190. All of this is based off an IR temperature sensor from right after we shut the engine down. I suppose it's also possible we need to get different thermostats although the ones we installed were the factory specified parts needed, and they did both open when we tested them in a pot of boiling water. I do think they seemed to open at too high a temperature though.

I will also confess that we have not put sealant around the exhaust housing gaskets. However we want to still be able to get into the power head to see if we can clean up any salt residue blockage before we seal it up permanently. Not having the sealant on these gaskets probably does not help the situation either.
 
The thermostats open up at about 148 degrees.... the engine shouldn't run too much hotter than that.

If you're running on a flushette, the water must be turned on full force.

The exhaust housing gaskets..... If you're speaking of the fairly large rubber seals that go on the exhaust tuning tube(s)..... sealer is used on their inner portion to keep them in place... BUT... only grease is used on the outside portion to help them slip into their respective seats.

At the moment, I can't imagine why your engine is still overheating.
 
OVERHEAT PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Ran the engine on muffs today for a full 20 minutes with no overheat alarm. Both cylinder heads were hot to the touch but I could keep my hand on them for a good 5 or 6 seconds and both were about the same temp. (Forgot to measure the actual temp with the IR gun.) Exhaust cover over the manifold was COLD, and the pee stream was good and steady with no sputtering and coughing. The water coming out of it never got hot or even very warm either. No more overheat problem...

We came across a post online where another boater had the same problem with his Evinrude, and it was traced to the thermostat housing, so we removed it AGAIN. On our boat the housing comes in two parts, the outer section where the hoses from the cylinder heads connect to, and the inner section that holds the thermostats, poppet valves and springs. In between these two sections was a gasket that looked great so we never pulled the two sections apart to check anything. When we finally took them apart last night and removed the gasket, underneath it on one side of the housing was a small detent with a tiny hole in the middle of it. You can't see the detent unless you remove the gasket, and once we did that, we found it filled up with salt residue and other crap, blocking that tiny hole. When we cleaned it out, put in a new gasket and reassembled everything, we no longer had the overheat problem and everything ran cool. We know water was getting into the block this time because we could put our hand on the exhaust cover with the motor running, which was nice and cool even after 20 minutes. Last week it was 190 degrees after just 2. Previously there must have been no water getting into the block, perhaps because of an air lock or something, all due to that tiny clogged hole.

I can't tell you how many times we took that thermostat housing out and never took the two pieces apart to check under this gasket, must have been 3 or 4 times at least. Just goes to show you have to pay attention to the tiniest thing before you give up completely....one little bitty hole almost cost us this boat!

I just wanted to let everyone know how it finally got resolved...thanks to everyone for your help!
 
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