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1987 Honda 8 hp neutral switch issue

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Cavebay

New member
Hello, my BF8 will start and ideal just fine, but when put in gear it dies. I removed the neutral switch from its cam and it now will run in gear. Any ideas why? What does this switch do? it looks like a magnetic switch that engages when in drive or reverse.

Thanks for the input!
Coeurd'Alene Lake, Idaho
 
It interrupts the circuit so the motor won't start in gear.
You can join the 2 wires together to bypass it.
Warning though - it will start in gear then.
 
The shop manual describes the neutral switch operation as follows:

The switch should provide a path for the ignition to operate when the shifter is in the neutral position. IE: the switch should be closed.
The switch should be open and provide no continuity when the shifter is in reverse or forward.

It is a "reed" switch that is manipulated with a permanent magnet attached to the bracket that the switch is mounted on. There is a a "dog ear" type "shield plate" (could be called a "Y" plate...your choice) that is used to interrupt the magnet's pull on the switch. When the shifter is in neutral...and all is adjusted properly...the gap between the doggy ears allows the magnet to have an effect on the switch. When the shifter is placed in forward or reverse, one of the doggy ears slides into the path of the magnetic field and interrupts it's pull on the switch contacts.

There is a scribed or stamped line on the rearmost doggy ear that is used for reference to adjust the operation of this contraption. The line on the ear is supposed to line up with the rearward edge of the switch case when the shifter is in neutral.

As alumarine has already said, the engine will start in gear if the switch is bypassed. SO BE CAREFUL!

NOW...we all know how it works. Right? But ask yourself this.....If that switch provides a path for the ignition to work when the outboard is in neutral......why doesn't the outboard die when put in gear??? I can tell you this; the shop manual doesn't explain that at all and the wiring diagram doesn't appear to address it either.

So...I guess it's another example of good old HONDA MAGIC! ;~)

Actually, I've intended for a while now to figure out the answer but I have not gotten A ROUND TOOIT. So, your particular problem may be an opportunity for us all to learn the "REST OF THE STORY" (Thank you MR. PAUL HARVEY!)

I think that it lies with the operation of the engine oil light switch......I'm just not sure. But that switch is the only thing on the motor that I know of that changes "states" after the engine is running. As the oil pressure comes up, the switch goes from open to closed and supplies a path to ground for the lamp. I've been meaning to see if there is another wire connected there that might be for grounding the ignition. Maybe you can check that out for us Cavebay? It's either that or wait for hondadude to chime in and set the record straight.

Are you watching MIKE?

At any rate, I bring the subject up to point out that there may NOT be anything wrong with your neutral switch. The problem may ACTUALLY be over in the ignition circuit itself and you may want to look at that and make sure all is in order and correct. It might save you a row to shore someday.
 
Thanks everyone for your insight. After reading the following past link on the same subject, I followed up on some of the points made there (many by jgmo). I removed the switch from it's bracket and took it out for a test drive. sadly it ran very poorly, no power and was missing badly. The oil pressure light is strong and constant.

Before all this, I had taken the plugs out, replace one and cleaned up the other. I also took the fuel filter off and made sure it was not plugged, and took the carb apart (new three years ago) and cleaned the orifices. I am baffled now, and back to square one.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...s-when-put-into-gear&highlight=Neutral+switch
 
Ha, that old thread had it all......except a solution. And, it reminds me of how quickly and easily time just slips away. I had fully intended to get to the bottom of the neutral safety switch question and POOF...4 years later and NUTHIN'!

Anyway, back to your problem.
Have you tried just connecting the two wires for the safety switch together and eliminating the switch altogether? If it still runs poorly after doing that, at least you know you've isolated the problem to the ignition system itself.
I just hope it's not a bad CDI...they are no longer available.

BUT, there was just a case here that turned out to be the connector pins for the CDI were worn and making poor contact. The guy found it by pushing and pulling and wiggling the connector. He fashioned some rubber inserts to wedge in the connector sockets to take the "slop" out and get a nice. tight fit. IT WORKED!

You may find your problem is a similar one. These engines vibrate quite a bit and 30 or 40 years of that takes a toll. You're at place where it's frustrating but you should go connection by connection, ESPECIALLY grounds, and clean them and tighten them up.

I hope you find it.
 
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After thinking about this some more....I might just try a new set of plugs and see if that helps. Doesn't cost a lot and if it doesn't make a difference, at least having spare plugs in the tackle box is a good thing.

Good luck.
 
JGMO thanks for the continued support on this issue.

I did get it running well, these are the steps I took based on your recommendations. I checked all the connections, and the grounds, tightening all. Then I unplugged the neutral switch and connected the leads together, bypassing the switch, and it ran great. I plan to test the continuity of the switch and then put it back in the ignition circuit to see if it runs badly again. I don't know for sure if I had a loose connection or if it is the switch. My "gut" feeling is the switch is bad. I'll report back when I have a conclusion.

Cavebay
 
Well, that is encouraging. There are probably thousands of these old girls running around today with no neutral safety switch. Which...is ok if you ALWAYS keep that in mind.

I sure wish I was "astute" enough at electronics and manufacturing to build a replacement CDI and ignition replacement set for these. I bet I could make a few bucks. I think HONDA is missing a new revenue stream by not providing the replacements for some of this stuff.

Anyway, standing by to see what you come up with.
Good luck.
 
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