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1970's B75 oil light not illuminating

Esoxdave

New member
Hi Guys, I've had numerous 2 stroke engines in the past but this is my first 4 stroke. I thought the green oil light should come on when the oil is circulating but mine isn't. The motor has had little use and runs happily but the light doesn't come on. What would be the testing procedure for this ? Can the bulb be tested ? Does the oil pump rotor wear out like an impeller ? The oil level is fine. Any help would be appreciated so thanks in advance.:confused:
 
Here's how it works electrically:
Voltage is provided through a "hot" wire from the ignition exciter coil, when the engine is running, to the bulb. The power goes through the bulb and seeks ground through the oil pressure switch. So, you have a power wire (typically yellow) to the bulb and you have a ground wire (usually black) from bulb to switch. When the engine oil pressure rises after start up, the switch closes and grounds the bulb.

This is a RUDIMENTARY warning system for low oil pressure. It is IMPORTANT that you verify oil pressure to prevent engine damage. It is always a good idea to put a mechanical gauge in the oil pressure port although I don't know anyone that actually does. I am adding this information as a CAVEAT. I know of no published specification for MINIMUM oil pressure but I like to see at least 15 psi at 2000 rpm. There! I warned ya!

Those lights do burn out. A quick check would be to find the oil pressure switch on the starboard side of the engine behind the ignition coil and slide the protective boot from the electrical connector. Using a voltmeter, run the engine and check for voltage present at switch. If there is no voltage at the switch, it could be that the bulb is burned out. To check, unplug the the bulb's ground wire and do a voltage check there. If you have power, then bulb is ok and there is a wiring fault between the bulb ground connector and the oil pressure switch.

If you do not have power, then unplug the bulb's "hot" wire (should be yellow in color) and check for power. If you now have power, the bulb is definitely bad. You MUST use caution when doing this testing to NOT allow the "hot" wire to touch ground at any time. Otherwise, you can burn out your exciter coil. If you don't have power at the "hot" wire, there is likely a problem with the exciter coil under the flywheel. Although, there is a connector for that wire that can have high resistance. I have not seen that connector give problems.... but you never know.

If you initially found that you have voltage at the oil pressure switch, then you can dispense with all the above and concentrate on the switch itself. First, use a "jumper" wire to the switch terminal and attach it to a reliable ground on the engine. If the bulb now illuminates when the engine is running, you will either need to remove the switch and replace it or you can try cleaning it out and re-installing it to see if it works. The switches on these get "sludge" built up in them and, sometimes, all it takes to get them to work again is to spray some contact cleaner up into the inlet and the let it drain out and dry up.

If you find that cleaning the switch and re-installing OR replacing it with a new one still leaves you with no oil light, it is HIGHLY likely that you have VERY low oil pressure and continuing to run the outboard like that will eventually lead to catastrophic engine failure.

That's all I got. I hope didn't confuse you.......too much...

....Good luck.
 
Jgmo has given a description of how it works. there is a wiring diagram In the workshop manual here http://www.pckennis.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/honda b75-b100-bf100-bf8.pdf. I would do similar testing but note that you are looking for AC voltage And your multimeter must be on this setting while looking for voltage. You can also unplug the connector in the wiring to the bulb and use a continuity check at different points to help track down if the bulb, coil or other wiring is giving a fault (with engine NOT running). Oil pressure switch should be connecting to ground when engine is running and oil pressure is up. Otherwise clean it up as per jgmo.
 
Thanks for pointing out the a c voltage skronkman! Completely slipped my mind! Thanks for keeping me straight and thanks for the downloadable service manual!

However, I told him to test the bulb the way I did because SOME of the bulbs on some models (I don't know which he has) are not incandescent and I don't think an ohm tester would give reliable results in all cases.

But that brings up another good point....The early models had a replaceable bulb. Later models have a "lamp assembly" that is socket, lens, bulb (neon?) and wiring in a non serviceable "package". Depending on which one yours has, Esoxdave, it could take a bit of hunting on the parts website to find a replacement. But I'm sure that most of them are still available. It's just that you may have to source something from a different model number description.
 
I had the same problem, oil psi, no light. Put in a 6-18 volt green led. Works great and can see it easily, modified original light socket.
 
At this point be careful earlier year Honda's the warning system with the green light works exactly opposite than the late models.Read your manual from 1978 to 2001 it tells you there.
 
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Yes led light works fine, no problems in 2yrs. Should be if light on you have oil psi. Check to see if you have voltage going to light. Follow jgmo trouble shooting advice, he is spot for the procedure. Good luck you should be able to fix this problem if you follow his advise.
 
Iam looking at the manual 1978 to 2001 and para fazing what it says: If oil pressure drops to a predetermined level, the switch grounds completing the lamp and buzzer circuit , looking at the electrical drawing in the same book it shows the circuit open and with the oil full it will close the circuit and the lamp will light .Now read on page 4-89 at the very top of the page manual 2002 -2014 it gives exactly the opposite
 
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Y. Follow jgmo trouble shooting advice, he is spot for the procedure.
Do you have a link for his advice?

I have measured the voltage a while ago. All I can remember was that I got a 200V in AC or a mere 1,2V DC. I soldered a 12V bulb on to the wire but that didn't worked. So I'm a bit confused what kind of light to replace the old one. Since the oil pressure switch gets a nice clean 12V DC.

Hence my question.
 
it says in the 1978 to 2001 manual to connect the lamp wires to a 9V battery to test, then it says that if the lamp doesn't work it may be faulty , then it says some lamps contain a diode and that the wires can only be placed on the battery a certain way if it doesn't work swap the wires around .
 
Michievdlans----What motor are you working on / do you own ?-----Are you quoting from a manual for the early 7.5 HP models ?l
 
Then it also tells me about the Oil pressure switch and how to test it by checking between the terminal and ground. this is the one that turns the light on and off: up to 30hp continuity should exist when the motor is running and oil pressure is present and no continuity when motor is turned off. and for 35hp and higher its the exact opposite. this apply,s to 1978 to 2001 according to the manual.
 
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