Well I took off lower unit and spun the driveshaft with my hand and held the prop shaft and it wasn't going into forward gear solid it would go in then pop out and prop shaft would not spin so I took off solenoid cover and found the solenoid plunger rod with nut on top was sticking up about 1/8...
new purchase when doing water pump I seen oil pump screen area cracked so ordered new oil pump and new clutch dog installed prop end facing prop so never had it work but not giving up
Should I take lower unit off again and try to see something not working not sure what to look for tho any other checks before removing lower unit or ideas what to look for after removing??
Yes engine not running goes into forward gear and yes I just went out and checked stays in forward with key turn on without starting moved throttle to forward neutral and reverse and stays in forward gear. Has the Hydro shifter both motor and controllers in great condition.
no damage to shaft piston.. the spring I cant compare to anything.. no push button controls just the Johnson hydro electric shift controls using type C starbright oil but not sure about solenoids other than ohms test never messed with height adjustment because looks like no one ever been inside...
I have been all over this learning as much as I can and refuse to give up on the outboard 65ESL72. I installed new oil pump as old one was bad cracked at screen area took apart with manual step by step tested solenoids 6.0 ohms both green and blue wires then put back together with new oil pump...
ok thank you so water in the gearcase would cause this screen to come apart like this and yes I have all new seals and o rings and solenoids check out at 6 ohms .
I had a issue with shifting no neutral or reverse and looks like I found my problem cracked oil pump where screen is located so I ordered new oil pump assembly with gold colored screen. My question is do I have to have this gold fine hole screen in place when I install new one or is this just a...
OK answering this so I hope it helps anyone else that would have this issue .I called CDI and sent him my wiring diagram and this thread and he said terminal #1 gets a yellow wire ..terminal #2 gets yellow wire ..terminal #3 gets gray wire from the regulated rectifier. Thanks for the help I got...
OK I was hoping to avoid that as I did call last week and he said remove diode wires but he didn't have wiring diagram to see what I was talking about hopefully I can convince him that's not a good idea on a hydro shift outboard but I will try again to call him and hopefully get a better answer...
Wow!!!! I just looked at that again and your right I see it now but what do I do with this new info it still doesn't tell me what to do with my one yellow and one gray coming from new CDI why is that not on the wire diagram?? Thank you for showing me this can you tell me where to connect the 2...
Terminal #1 has one stator wire with one rectifier wire and one shift diode wire only 3 wires total.. #2 has the other stator wire with one shift diode wire not at all connected together.2 separate terminals not connected together at all not sure how you see that???disregard pic as cannot see...
OK I have this diagram that hopefully will make my question easier to see my issue.my terminal block is wired exactly like this diagram the only issue I have is my new CDI rectifier regulator has one more wire that I am not sure where to connect to the tach?? The old rectifier has 2 yellow wires...