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What I found is to remove valve cover loosing valve bolt untill you here it tapping than slowly tighten bolt till tapping noise stop then tighten bolt 3/4 turn..
would that way work???
 
Tony1999bayliner said:
What I found is to remove valve cover loosing valve bolt untill you here it tapping than slowly tighten bolt till tapping noise stop then tighten bolt 3/4 turn..
would that way work???
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Yes or with engine off valve on a cylinder closed move pushrod up and down tighten nut until no more up and down movement is felt then go another half turn or so

Do a compression test if valves are too tight compression will be low. Will also reveal if you have an issue with valve leaking by
 
Ok will recheck compression when I did compression my numbers are low the highest was 135psi lowest cylinder was 120. But I didn’t take out all 4 spark plugs ..
I only took out one spark plugs at a time for testing probally did it wrong what I’m told is take all spark plugs out then do test .. thanks for your tips
 
Tony1999bayliner said:
Ok will recheck compression when I did compression my numbers are low the highest was 135psi lowest cylinder was 120. But I didn’t take out all 4 spark plugs ..
I only took out one spark plugs at a time for testing probally did it wrong what I’m told is take all spark plugs out then do test .. thanks for your tips
Click to expand...
Warm up engine Take all plugs out put throttle wide open and ground coil wire off distributor

Take the test. If low squirt oil in cylinder if oil increases compression rings are worn


Also note a lot of cheap gauges are inaccurate
 
If all the rockers have there own tightening nuts, you can remove valve cover, puts rags all around the edge of head, start engine,

Loosen one rocker nut at a time slowly until you hear clacking. Then tighten until it stops. Then tighten 1/4 turn and stop for a bit as engine may run rough. Once engine runs smooth again tighten 1/4 turn agian and stop. Once engine runs smooth tighten 1/4 turn and your done.

Repeat for every rocker arm.

Only certain shaft mounted rocker arms and solid lifters typically need to be adjusted with a feeler gauge.

Hydrualic lifters which should be in your engine, adjust as I deacribe.

Of course it can be done when not running but I am not typing that whole process!!
 
lol I did it with out running once I replace head gasket.. I think I did somthing wrong during vavle adjustment boat run smooth but once I rev it up to 2000 rpm carb make fast small piping sound like mini backfires.. I spent more than 2hrs adjusting distributer. Also adjust carb mixer no difference..only thing I can think of is rechecking valve .. distributor rotor and wire looks good spark plugs new gapped at 45 instead of 35..any thought on what else might cause my symptom's ??
 
The way I adjust valve is loosing nut than slowly tightening nut till rods can’t spin with fingers than 3/4 turn.. I’m thinking I got cylinder 4 360degree of due to compression test shows cyl4 test at 120psi compare to the highest cyl test at 135.
Greatly appreciate everyone’s input and help on my issues.. first time ever replace head gasket I think it’s not to difficult on my mercrusier 3.0 4cyl
 
DO NOT try to set the timing without a timing light! The chance of hitting the correct point is nil.

Is your distributor shown in the pdf? Find a manual and borrow a timing light from an auto parts store, so you can adjust it correctly.
 

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Tony1999bayliner said:
lol I did it with out running once I replace head gasket.. I think I did somthing wrong during vavle adjustment boat run smooth but once I rev it up to 2000 rpm carb make fast small piping sound like mini backfires.. I spent more than 2hrs adjusting distributer. Also adjust carb mixer no difference..only thing I can think of is rechecking valve .. distributor rotor and wire looks good spark plugs new gapped at 45 instead of 35..any thought on what else might cause my symptom's ??
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If it ran last year, the carb didn't need to be adjusted. Which plugs are you using? You should be using AC MR43T or equivalent, but they're easy enough to find- I bought mine at Advance AutoParts.
 
Plugs are ngk ,,est distributer is original since I owned the boat in 2001 the boat did not ran for a few years.. has milky oil replace head gasket carb was rebuild twice so I bought a new one.. saw manifold crack bought new one.. never done timing before this until now by ear .. yes I will try using timing light as soon as I can learn how to do it..
 
jimn said:
If it ran last year, the carb didn't need to be adjusted. Which plugs are you using? You should be using AC MR43T or equivalent, but they're easy enough to find- I bought mine at Advance AutoParts.
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Jimn,

Not sure which 3.0 he has. If it is a LX then it uses a different plug which is gapped at .045"

He mentions this gap in ealier post.

We Would need conformation of which spark plugs are for his engine which would be on spec label on engine/carb cover/valve cover.
 
kghost said:
Jimn,

Not sure which 3.0 he has. If it is a LX then it uses a different plug which is gapped at .045"

He mentions this gap in ealier post.

We Would need conformation of which spark plugs are for his engine which would be on spec label on engine/carb cover/valve cover.
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I looked at the LX and picked the MR43T and the second part supercedes to NGK BR6EFS, which looks like the longer one, similar to the MR43LTS and in checking, this is true. I don't remember seeing the long reach plugs in the 3.0 engines, but the Mercury EPC shows this, so they obviously changed the head.

The serial number range for the LX in the EPC is [0C856559 THRU 0F603999] for the 1990-1995 engine, the 1987-1989 range of [0B450801 THRU 0C856558] for the 3.0L non-LX. That shows MR43T/BR6FS.

We need the engine serial number.
 
jimn said:
I looked at the LX and picked the MR43T and the second part supercedes to NGK BR6EFS, which looks like the longer one, similar to the MR43LTS and in checking, this is true. I don't remember seeing the long reach plugs in the 3.0 engines, but the Mercury EPC shows this, so they obviously changed the head.

The serial number range for the LX in the EPC is [0C856559 THRU 0F603999] for the 1990-1995 engine, the 1987-1989 range of [0B450801 THRU 0C856558] for the 3.0L non-LX. That shows MR43T/BR6FS.

We need the engine serial number.
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Yes, thats why I posted........
 
Yes mine is the short thread plugs .. I did not use NGK BR6EFS I used a different ngk with short threads … as soon as I get home I’ll find out what advance auto from cross referencing my old champion plugs..
 
Tony1999bayliner said:
Serial
L376180
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That is NOT the whole serial number.

Do you have the carb cover and does it have a specification label.

Look there and report back here all the specifics.
Spark plug type and gap,
Timing
Serial number

Etc.....

You need to get this stuff right!!!

Note the aerial numbers Jimn posted....

""""serial number range for the LX in the EPC is [0C856559 THRU 0F603999] for the 1990-1995 engine, the 1987-1989 range of [0B450801 THRU 0C856558] for the 3.0L non-LX. That shows MR43T/BR6FS."""
 
Got number on driver side toward back motor theirs a metal tag that say serial with those numbers under it..
would hin work better ?? Ushgi0cse999
Yes I do have carb cover will get back with all specs
 
It occurred to me about your valve/rocker arm adjustment,
Note that I did not read all the prior posts.

When you adjusted the rocker arms, did you do it acording to the manual or someones specifying when to adjust them (intake and exhaust) based on turning engine over manually x revolutions so the rockers being adjusted are on the base circle of the cam lobe?

Or did you just tighten then all at the same time with never rotating the engine?
 
Got info adjusting mercrusier 3.0 vavle adjustment from you tube.. it show cyl1 fire stroke at tdc adjust cyl1 intake and exhaust same time.
Cyl2 intake cyl3 exhaust cyl4 intake rotate 360 and do the rest.. this is where I believe I messed up I rotate 360. Got distracted than I think I rotate it 360 again… my guess that’s the reason why carb backfires at 2000rpm… I will redo it with no distraction this time..
I know dum !!! lol don’t mind if I get lit up on vavle adjusting it’s true big mistake for not remembering
 
I said ALL SPECIFICATION TO INCLUDE SPARK PLUG AND TIMING INFO.

STOP MAKING THIS MORE DIFFICULT THEN IT HAS TO BE!!

DO EXACTLY WHAT IS ASKED OF YOU!
 
Tony1999bayliner said:
Got info adjusting mercrusier 3.0 vavle adjustment from you tube.. it show cyl1 fire stroke at tdc adjust cyl1 intake and exhaust same time.
Cyl2 intake cyl3 exhaust cyl4 intake rotate 360 and do the rest.. this is where I believe I messed up I rotate 360. Got distracted than I think I rotate it 360 again… my guess that’s the reason why carb backfires at 2000rpm… I will redo it with no distraction this time..
I know dum !!! lol don’t mind if I get lit up on vavle adjusting it’s true big mistake for not remembering
Click to expand...


In my opinion, seeing as its all back together, and you have run it,

I would suggest doing the adjustment now, as I suggested. Its a messy job due to oil getting all over the place but once its done, its done and correct.

If you choose to do it that way, get the spark plugs and gap correct first!!!!
 
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