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Boat stalls out in No wakes or just in gear

J

justinsgtp

New member
I have a 95 Maxum 20ft open bow with a Merc 4.3 LX 262.

I bought the boat used and noticed when I am in a No Wake or trying to dock, my boat will drop RPMs and die. It starts up right away again, just to die a minute later. It happens every time I slow way down and start to go in a no wake. I rebuilt the carb, which looked great, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new oil, new plugs cap and wire. The tank is also really clean.

Second issue that may be related, but the last two times I went out I cant shift back to neutral, the lever goes back to neutral but the boat still moves forward for a few seconds and it is almost impossible to shift to reverse. The lever is very hard to ship to reverse also and the problem still exists when I shift back to neutral.

Are these problems related?

Also I have a purple wire on top of my manifold with a connector on the end that is not plugged into anything, since I've had the boat its always disconnected but I do not know where it goes.

Any help on this would be great because I want to get my kids on the boat for the first time this weekend?

Thank you
J ​
 
OK I won't beat you up for not having tested this boat prior to paying for it but I will for operating the boat in its current unsafe condition in areas where you can be a danger to others along with yourself. Stop taking this out and god forbid you have your kids on it when you do. You wouldn't drive your car with no brakes and no reverse gear would you? of course not.
The dying thing could be a simple adjustment of the cables or it may be a fuel problem. The poor shifting I have no idea as it could be several things.
Bottom line, if you don't have the KSAs to be able to pinpoint the issues and repair them, then please take the boat to a qualified marine tech and get it repaired. Your kids will thanks you. Well, probably not but at least they won't redrafting helplessly in a busy channel.
 
Bring your boat to a reputable service shop and they will fix your problems.

I do not think you would understand all the trouble shpoting and associated adjustments your boat may need.

Especially if the carb and or fuel systems have issues.

Too many issues to properly explain here
 
kghost said:
Bring your boat to a reputable service shop and they will fix your problems.

I do not think you would understand all the trouble shpoting and associated adjustments your boat may need.

Especially if the carb and or fuel systems have issues.

Too many issues to properly explain here
Click to expand...
Code for I'm an "expert" Merc tech with manuels but I can't help you. Lol
 
justinsgtp said:
I have a 95 Maxum 20ft open bow with a Merc 4.3 LX 262.

I bought the boat used and noticed when I am in a No Wake or trying to dock, my boat will drop RPMs and die. It starts up right away again, just to die a minute later. It happens every time I slow way down and start to go in a no wake. I rebuilt the carb, which looked great, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new oil, new plugs cap and wire. The tank is also really clean.

Second issue that may be related, but the last two times I went out I cant shift back to neutral, the lever goes back to neutral but the boat still moves forward for a few seconds and it is almost impossible to shift to reverse. The lever is very hard to ship to reverse also and the problem still exists when I shift back to neutral.

Are these problems related?

Also I have a purple wire on top of my manifold with a connector on the end that is not plugged into anything, since I've had the boat its always disconnected but I do not know where it goes.

Any help on this would be great because I want to get my kids on the boat for the first time this weekend?

Thank you
J ​
Click to expand...

There is a good chance your shift interrupt is not working (assuming you have an Alpha Drive on a 20' BR)

There is also a good chance that you need a new lower shift cable, hence why they possibly disconnected the shift interrupt.
 
whiteside said:
Code for I'm an "expert" Merc tech with manuels but I can't help you. Lol
Click to expand...

I see you added your expert answer now didnt you. Next time try helping the OP. Oh and by the way. What would be your course of action to help him with his problems? Would you suggest hitting the ole barbecue stand for some brisket and soda pop?

I actually have most of his answers but unfortunately I was using my CELL phone (if you know what one of those are) and did not feel like thumbing a long winded answer.

Besides. The OP is most likely unable to understand a lot of what will be said and will know even less about how to fix.

If he demonstrates some mechanical knowledge of boat repair then we can go all in and help trouble shoot all his issues.

Obviously he is somewhat new to merecruiser and mainly wants to take his kids boating. Not much there to start ranting on how to trouble shoot and repair all his problems by the weekend..........Wish it was that easy. then we could all sleep better at night.
 
justinsgtp said:
I have a 95 Maxum 20ft open bow with a Merc 4.3 LX 262.

I bought the boat used and noticed when I am in a No Wake or trying to dock, my boat will drop RPMs and die. It starts up right away again, just to die a minute later. It happens every time I slow way down and start to go in a no wake. I rebuilt the carb, which looked great, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new oil, new plugs cap and wire. The tank is also really clean.

Second issue that may be related, but the last two times I went out I cant shift back to neutral, the lever goes back to neutral but the boat still moves forward for a few seconds and it is almost impossible to shift to reverse. The lever is very hard to ship to reverse also and the problem still exists when I shift back to neutral.

Are these problems related?

Also I have a purple wire on top of my manifold with a connector on the end that is not plugged into anything, since I've had the boat its always disconnected but I do not know where it goes.

Any help on this would be great because I want to get my kids on the boat for the first time this weekend?

Thank you
J ​
Click to expand...

Problem one. stalling.

You have to determine if it is fuel related or simply to low of idle or not fuel related. If it is about to stall and you use the throttle and quickly move it to give it more fuel does it recover? If it does then it is a fuel/ carb issue. You may need to readjust the carb and set idle to 650-750 in gear. Do you know what your base timing is? Should be ~ 6-8 degrees BTDC. If this does not help then a different approach will be needed but at this point that is all there is to go on. The fact that you were into the carb already may have something to do with it.

Problem two,
Chris pretty much answered that one. When you cannot shift OUT of gear (forward or reverse) it typically means the shift interrupter switch is either bad or not adjusted correctly or someone removed the connections (two connections) (one goes to ground other to ignition). This switch is located on the shift bracket at engine, where the shift control cable and short shift cable are mounted.

To determine if switch works, start engine and depress switch and hold. Engine should stall. If not then switch is bad or disconnected.

If it works then most likely cables are adjusted wrong. Give feed back first before we go down the cable adjustment procedure road.

That micro switch kills ignition for a moment to allow clutch dog disengagement in lower unit. Without that momentary ignition loss the clutch dog wont want to separate from the gear it is engaged with. (Kind of like WhitA$$ and Mickey Siamese twins joined at the head)

Also when shifting out of gear if you shift to slow you will stall the engine. Shifting out of gear should be quick enough to allow all this to work. in other words you are either in gear or in neutral. No in between, which is what we all would like.

problem three,
The Purple wire as with a few other wires that may be hanging unattached, may not go to anything and are for other options not on your boat. The wire harnesses are for universal use and sometimes have extra unused wires/connections.

If this connector is close to the choke on the carb and the carb is a 2bbl with electric choke it may go there. If that connection already exists then it is simply and unused wire.
 
Last edited:
The previous post #9 is to the point, is informative and is great........... right up to the point of being rude and nasty with this:

(Kind of like WhitA$$ and Mickey Siamese twins joined at the head)
Click to expand...

Jack, once again, there is no need to do this. No matter how much you may disagree with someone, try your best to be polite, courteous and adult like.
 
Jack ruler of the Merc forum.jpg
 
o2batsea said:
OK I won't beat you up for not having tested this boat prior to paying for it but I will for operating the boat in its current unsafe condition in areas where you can be a danger to others along with yourself. Stop taking this out and god forbid you have your kids on it when you do. You wouldn't drive your car with no brakes and no reverse gear would you? of course not.
The dying thing could be a simple adjustment of the cables or it may be a fuel problem. The poor shifting I have no idea as it could be several things.
Bottom line, if you don't have the KSAs to be able to pinpoint the issues and repair them, then please take the boat to a qualified marine tech and get it repaired. Your kids will thanks you. Well, probably not but at least they won't redrafting helplessly in a busy channel.
Click to expand...




The boat was tested and it ran all last year with out issue, I can get it in reverse it just take a lot of pressure on the throttle to do it.
 
Loose purple wire near front of engine is used during tuneup to set initial ignition timing advance with a strobe light.
 
sandkicker said:
Loose purple wire near front of engine is used during tuneup to set initial ignition timing advance with a strobe light.
Click to expand...

How is it used in that manner?

MY timing lights have large clips for battery connections and I clip it on a battery + and ground.
 
kghost said:
Problem one. stalling.

You have to determine if it is fuel related or simply to low of idle or not fuel related. If it is about to stall and you use the throttle and quickly move it to give it more fuel does it recover? If it does then it is a fuel/ carb issue. You may need to readjust the carb and set idle to 650-750 in gear. Do you know what your base timing is? Should be ~ 6-8 degrees BTDC. If this does not help then a different approach will be needed but at this point that is all there is to go on. The fact that you were into the carb already may have something to do with it.

Problem two,
Chris pretty much answered that one. When you cannot shift OUT of gear (forward or reverse) it typically means the shift interrupter switch is either bad or not adjusted correctly or someone removed the connections (two connections) (one goes to ground other to ignition). This switch is located on the shift bracket at engine, where the shift control cable and short shift cable are mounted.

To determine if switch works, start engine and depress switch and hold. Engine should stall. If not then switch is bad or disconnected.

If it works then most likely cables are adjusted wrong. Give feed back first before we go down the cable adjustment procedure road.

That micro switch kills ignition for a moment to allow clutch dog disengagement in lower unit. Without that momentary ignition loss the clutch dog wont want to separate from the gear it is engaged with. (Kind of like WhitA$$ and Mickey Siamese twins joined at the head)

Also when shifting out of gear if you shift to slow you will stall the engine. Shifting out of gear should be quick enough to allow all this to work. in other words you are either in gear or in neutral. No in between, which is what we all would like.

problem three,
The Purple wire as with a few other wires that may be hanging unattached, may not go to anything and are for other options not on your boat. The wire harnesses are for universal use and sometimes have extra unused wires/connections.

If this connector is close to the choke on the carb and the carb is a 2bbl with electric choke it may go there. If that connection already exists then it is simply and unused wire.
Click to expand...
Genius, on an OMC Cobra is it ok to refill the drive from the bottom drain plug, Ace? HAHAHAHAHAHA!
 
kghost said:
whiteside said:
Genius, on an OMC Cobra is it ok to refill the drive from the bottom drain plug, Ace?
Click to expand...
I always fill OMC's from the top.
I take off top cap and pour it in right to the top...
Takes about 10 oz...
One and done...
Ace...like it

Better than A$$ Wipe.
Click to expand...

OMC suggests using their procedure ONLY.
Damage may occur when doing otherwise.


OMC Cobra oil change procedure.jpg
 
Jack is right about taking off the top cap on OMC. I used to do that with the Cobra drive cz it was far easier to pour in the oil vs trying to fill thru a tiny hole. Takes a lot less time and makes less mess. It's a trick you learn after having to clean up SAE 90 spills. I do this for the tractor when I have to fill the front axle (4WD tractor). Pop the top off and you get a nice big target.
 
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