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1985 Evinrude 30hp - New Owner

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SuperDave4x4

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I just picked up a 1985 Evinrude 30hp two days ago. The Modelnumber is E30ECOA and was built in Canada. As of right now it cranks fine andhas 140psi in each cylinder but the previous owner said it had setup for over ayear. My initial thought was to just run it as is but I’m starting to think Ineed to at least get a Water Pump Kit and anode kit (I’m in Louisianarunning marshes for Redfish).

Does anyone feel that I should go ahead a get a Carb Rebuildkit as well?

Lastly, does anyone know what size fuel lines are coming offthe fuel pump and running to the carb? There appears to be 3 different sizedhoses. The third and smallest size is for the Electric Primer.

Any other tips or info would be great. I’m really lookingforward to getting my project boat back in the water!

 
I have it's sister motor, a 1984 35hp--almost the same thing. I bought it new in the box in 1984. Since then, I have changed spark plugs once (didn't need to, they were ok), and have changed the water pump impeller several times, "just because". Nothing else has ever been apart, but admittedly I really ought to replace the fuel lines. It sits indoors several months at a time, no problem. Just drag it out start it up and go.

OK, so call me lucky. Oh yeah, I did use it in salt water for a couple of years when new, but it hasn't seen salt in many years since.
 
fdrgator said:
I have it's sister motor, a 1984 35hp--almost the same thing. I bought it new in the box in 1984. Since then, I have changed spark plugs once (didn't need to, they were ok), and have changed the water pump impeller several times, "just because". Nothing else has ever been apart, but admittedly I really ought to replace the fuel lines. It sits indoors several months at a time, no problem. Just drag it out start it up and go.

OK, so call me lucky. Oh yeah, I did use it in salt water for a couple of years when new, but it hasn't seen salt in many years since.
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Thats awesome!

I will be changing out the fuel lines for sure. I just need to determine line size. I wish MarineEngine would link you to the appropriate hose size and link you to the proper hose and order by the foot.

Im going to try to get this little thing cleaned up nice. The lower cowling is dirty on the inside and the exterior could use some fresh colors.
 
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Has anyone here replaced the fuse holder that holds the20a fuse labeled number 8 in my attachment? The wires coming out either end areabout to break away from the holder ends. I obviously can’t buy just the fuseholder so I would think my only option is an aftermarket fuse holder and appropriately size fuse ?

I want to say the fuse said it was 20a 32v but is an odd dimension.

 

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They have used the same 20 amp fuse since the late 1960's-----About 5/8" long.----Available in many places and automotive parts stores.
 
Pull the fuel pump apart and inspect the diaphram if it is stiff rebuild it as well. That way you wont gum up the rebuilt carb. It wouldnt hurt to pressure test the gearbox. See how long it will hold no more than 8psi pressure. Spray theshafts with soapy water and spin them.
 
racerone said:
They have used the same 20 ampfuse since the late 1960's-----About 5/8" long.----Available in manyplaces and automotive parts stores.
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I'll check my local parts store. Thanks.

I was thinking about getting a blade style fuse and holder if I can’t find a direct replacement easily.
 

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Electrically, any 20A automotive fuse holder will work. However, for this use, it should be sealed against water and fuel fumes. The one in your picture appears to be sealed, and if so, should meet the requirements.
 


kimcrwbr1 said:
Pull the fuel pump apart andinspect the diaphragm if it is stiff rebuild it as well. That way you won’t gumup the rebuilt carb. It wouldn’t hurt to pressure test the gearbox. See howlong it will hold no more than 8psi pressure. Spray the shafts with soapy waterand spin them.
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I went ahead and ordered fuel pump kit and several other parts. That’s agood idea about testing the seals. That never even crossed my mind.


What are yall using to thread into the lower unit toattach a hose?

fdrgator said:
Electrically, any 20A automotive fuse holder will work.However, for this use, it should be sealed against water and fuel fumes. Theone in your picture appears to be sealed, and if so, should meet therequirements.
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Excellent point about the fumes!



I appreciate all the input guys!

 
kimcrwbr1 said:
If you replace the fuse holder besure and solder the wires and shrink wrap the splices.
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They sure will be. I have a ton of stuff left over from my 2001 Kenner 23v I rebuilt that I can use.

I tried to clean up the inside of the lower engine cowling last night… Didn’tcome out as clean as I wanted but it’s a start in the right direction. I wishthe cowling was split like the 250 ProXS I had was. That would make cleaningand working on the engine a breeze.

Side note: I removed the oil drain plug last night to geta better look at the oil. Looks good considering it being a used engine. I justneed to get some new oil and change it. Is there any particular LU oil that hasto be used or just a good 90w?
 
You need to add outboard specific hypoid gear oil do not use automotive gear oil. Walmart has it along with most part stores. Add the oil in the drain hole until it comes out the upper hole. Then put the vent plug in and wuickly put in the drain plug. I have a oil can to top it off with pull the upper plug and top it off. Get new nylon washers now so you know there good.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
You need to add outboard specific hypoid gear oil do not use automotive gear oil. Walmart has it along with most part stores. Add the oil in the drain hole until it comes out the upper hole. Then put the vent plug in and wuickly put in the drain plug. I have a oil can to top it off with pull the upper plug and top it off. Get new nylon washers now so you know there good.
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Perfect. I have to change the LU oil and engine oil in my 350 Verado today so I'll knock out the 'Rude today as well.



I'm still on the hunt for a binnacle.....
 
Well, I’ve ran into my first snag. I can not remove the lower unit.

I have removed the 4 bolts and one nut along with disconnecting the shift linkage. The lower unit did release from the midsection and can move from side to side somewhat but it will not drop.

Any tips?
 
Hang a cinder block from the gearbox so it will only drop a couple inches before hitting the ground and just let it hang there. Gravity should do the job it could be stuck in three places the water tube, driveshaft or front bolt. Is that a long shaft ? Ifso unbolt the lower bolts for the spacer only.
 
It’s a short shaft.

I was able get it to drop about 1/4” last night. It appears that the front stud is free and feels more like the drive shaft is hung up?

I may have to bring a set of brass wedges home from work on Monday.

I dont have anything that heavy to hang from it. I pulled on it hard several times with my body weight... notta.
 
If you can stand it on its head an spray the shaft with WD and let it run down to the crank splines. Let it soak a day or two then put it upright and hang some weight on the gearbpx. Time, chemicals and gravity are the best dont try and force it. But dont let it fall very far it can break the skeg.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
If you can stand it on its head an spray the shaft with WD and let it run down to the crank splines. Let it soak a day or two then put it upright and hang some weight on the gearbpx. Time, chemicals and gravity are the best dont try and force it. But dont let it fall very far it can break the skeg.
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I may have the give that a shot.

racerone said:
Did you remove the black plastic keeper on the upper shift rod ?
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Yes.
 
Yes very common problem when crankshaft spline rusts and jams the driveshaft.-----I have an adapter and then use a slide hammer to pull it out.
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
Can you send me a photo of it?

how are you holding onto the shaft with out damaging it?
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Current idea is to use these C clips stacked to give me extra grip around the shaft where it is turned down just above the splines. That (I hope) will give me enough of a surface for me to use two pieces flat bar and all thread to push the shaft out. The flat bar will be drilled and slid on to the drive shaft.

EDIT: my phone won't let me upload photos.
 
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Chemicals and time stand it on its head and keep dripping penetrating down the shaft to the crank splines while your rigging up a puller. Be careful not to mar up the oil seal surface on the shaft.
 
Got it off! The little press worked perfect however the stacked c-clips didn't have enough meat to stay together even with a vice grip trying to hold them together. A half inch box end wrench fit perfect and did the job.

Upon removal I noticed this spot along with some pitting above it where the water pump impeller would sit.

What would cause the shaft to delaminate?


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Age and proper maintenance. If you cant get a speedi sleeve the shaft needs replaced. I would pull the gearbox apart and gove it a once over as there may be damage from water intrusion?
 
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The fluid that was in the LU looked great. The oil was not discolored from water intrusion and no metal debris at all.

I left the shaft at the house but I will bring some emory cloth home to cleanit up and see how the rest of it looks. In the mean time I will try to locate a Speedi Sleeve.

In the picture you can see it has been like that for a little while as there ismarkings on the area where the delamination has occurred. Also the seal at the top of the lower unit looks good and has no signs of damage. A pressure test will be conducted this week.
 
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