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The 70 HP repair pain

j-bg00d

New member
Hi guys!

Just gonna throw this out there. If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated.

I have an oldie second hand or maybe 3rd or 4th hand LOL.. 1978 70 HP Mercury 700. It ran last season just barely.
Had an oil leak from lower prop seal. Had that fixed by a local boat repair shop. Supposed to be Merc Certified doing this for 40 years.

Also asked if he could look at the idle and shift issue I thought was a problem. It would stall when I shifted into FWD or REV. and grind a bit. I would have to feather the idle cold start throttle to shift or it would stall.
This I thought was carb related. found out it was more electronic related. he said.

He took apart all the wires on the CDIswitch box.told me the box was wired wrong. said coil side was wired to trigger side and vice versa. dunno how this is possible for it to run at all like that last season.. but thats what he said. He was $92 / hr. I fugured i could do a few things myself and save a bit..
He said flip the box and add some length to the wires that were too short in length, take my time and re wire put everything on where its supposed to go. everything is labled. Not to tough if your a bit handy. Said ok.. that was a mistake.
Anyhow Did all that, put all together with the help of diagrams off the internet for switch box wiring for a 1978 70hp of my serial number 7110966.
Ok so its wired again looks good. Try and start... turns over nice.. doesnt fire.. So now Im checking all my wires all my connections.. try again.. nothing.
After a few more hours of swearing and getting pissedoff lol still nothing.

Then I go back to the net and try and trouble shoot. How to check all my electric parts.. and maybe figure out if i screwed up..

I found the compression is good first off.. about 120,
Trigger is good - readings about 1400 with multi meter.
Stator had bad wire insulation falling off and ooozy goo coming off stator coils, so that got replaced with Sierra stator. Not 100% sure I have that on perfectly right. The wires were too short to reach everything. But I read on here that a Tech mentioned that the stator can be rotated 2 bolt holes in any direction or multiples of 2. so I did that. wires reached now. All good? Maybe? Dunno? its not running so maybe not? I thought for sure that would have fixed it..

I go to try and start this oldie... poof Nothing.. turns over but now No Spark. Did a spark check with a inline ignition tester on all 3 plug wires. Nothing.

I wondering if my wire job on the switch box is in the wrong order? or are the ignition coils bad? or is the rectifier not working? or is the kill switch faulted? or is the switch box no good?
In reality the only "or" I wanted was the one in my boat.. this stuff is nuts LOL

All these wires are almost 40 years old.. its kind of a night mare.

Thats where Im at right now. Still swearing.. LOL

Like I said any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading!

J
 
If you have wired the switch-box back to front,me thinks you will need a new one.The wires are the correct length to meet the switch box without extensions unless they had been cut sometime in the past,which would be noticeable. Here are links to wiring diagram of 70hp motors http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/54.jpg http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/55.jpg http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/75_4cyl.jpg And a link to a manual,highly recommended, http://www.marineengine.com/manuals/seloc/mercury.html .At $30 it's well worth it.
Good luck,and I hope I am wrong and your switch-box is ok.
 
"Merc certified"? Those guys are MORONS!

Your switch box is toast, but there's a zillon of them for sale for under 50 bucks (and new) on E-Bay. DON'T wire it up any way but how the factory wiring diagram says.

Jeff

PS: Merc used two different firing orders for those engines: 1-2-3 and 1-3-2. The wiring from the switch box to the coils is very different, along with how the HT wires go to the plugs. I have a diagram for both firing orders, so find out which you have by pulling the plugs and turning the flywheel clockwise, Stick a screw driver in the plug holes, note which piston comes up, and the sequence. Then get back to us.
 
Thanks very much for the info guys! Much appreciated.

I think mine is the first image.. I think this because my kill switch wire is orange as in this one. http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/54.jpg

I was looking on E-bay for CDI switch boxes. It may be the way I'll have to go.

I will be trying the screwdriver trick to figure out the firing order. Never would have thought of that.. Thank you..

Ok so i do have to ask this.. Does anyone think that "Possibly" the new stator being turned so the wires would reach could have any contribution to not having any spark?
Just thought I'd ask.. I have been truly trying to do this right and not take any shortcuts. The price of parts and labor is just nuts.. I am handy I can do the work. Just need some direction.
At the end of the day I just really want to take my grand kids fishin. So I'm hoping to get this ole motor running. its on a 17ft Thundercraft bowrider. nothing special. but its paid for... lol

Thanks in advance!

J
 
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Why? That guy IS a moron.

The stator's wires should come out the right side of the motor, just behind the starter.

Jeff (Semi-Southerner--Marylander)
 
Does anyone think that "Possibly" the new stator being turned so the wires would reach could have any contribution to not having any spark?
Before these guys restart the Civil war,;),no to your question.The stator is an alternator putting out AC current.Doesn't care which coil and magnet creates it
 
Good day folks,

I ordered a new switch box. Should have it Wednesday. Hope to have it running by the weekend. Thanks for the help. I'll let ya s know if she runs.

John
 
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