First time poster, but I’ve been reading tons of posts going back years primarily covering thermostat issues and related cooling questions such as what’s the best product to use when flushing these engines - vinegar, salt away, salt off, salt terminator (Honda recommended) or others.
Today’s issue has to do with codes. I recently had an overheating issue where the engine would drop down to limp mode and I’d get a 20 second alarm but no light. I’ve since cleaned up the thermostats and discovered a hole in the housing which was actually blocked by mineral build-up. I plugged it with JB Weld’s SteelStik product and we’re back in business (I’ll change the t-stays this winter but just cleaned them up for now). HOWEVER when I had the alarm blaring, I wasn’t getting any red lights (the green stayed on), so that got me investigating the red lights. Well I cut the green and connected it to the oil level/overheat light to see if it would light up with the ignition turned to ON then go off once the engine was started, and it did. So as a result I decided to order 4 new indicator lights. I installed them yesterday and they all light up at the ON position and the green stayed on with the engine having been turned on as it should. The problem now is that the MIL check engine light is staying on!
Is there any chance that would be because I crossed the wires when connecting? That harness is 2 black wires and the replacement light has red/black. I temporarily connected the light to the harness and once the light went on, I stayed with that setup of the wires then used butt connectors to properly connect them.
Could it be that a code was thrown with the overheating and it just needs to be reset? If so, I’ll follow the shunt procedure to check and clear codes before taking it to a dealer.
I don’t have any issues operating the engine across the entire RPM range and I’m not getting any audible alarms either when starting or while underway.
I have the PGM-FI ignition with 4 lights.
Thank you reading this far and I look forward to thoughts.
-Chris
Today’s issue has to do with codes. I recently had an overheating issue where the engine would drop down to limp mode and I’d get a 20 second alarm but no light. I’ve since cleaned up the thermostats and discovered a hole in the housing which was actually blocked by mineral build-up. I plugged it with JB Weld’s SteelStik product and we’re back in business (I’ll change the t-stays this winter but just cleaned them up for now). HOWEVER when I had the alarm blaring, I wasn’t getting any red lights (the green stayed on), so that got me investigating the red lights. Well I cut the green and connected it to the oil level/overheat light to see if it would light up with the ignition turned to ON then go off once the engine was started, and it did. So as a result I decided to order 4 new indicator lights. I installed them yesterday and they all light up at the ON position and the green stayed on with the engine having been turned on as it should. The problem now is that the MIL check engine light is staying on!
Is there any chance that would be because I crossed the wires when connecting? That harness is 2 black wires and the replacement light has red/black. I temporarily connected the light to the harness and once the light went on, I stayed with that setup of the wires then used butt connectors to properly connect them.
Could it be that a code was thrown with the overheating and it just needs to be reset? If so, I’ll follow the shunt procedure to check and clear codes before taking it to a dealer.
I don’t have any issues operating the engine across the entire RPM range and I’m not getting any audible alarms either when starting or while underway.
I have the PGM-FI ignition with 4 lights.
Thank you reading this far and I look forward to thoughts.
-Chris