faztbullet
Silver Medal Contributor
A rotton wiring harness to solenoids will do this and will also cause one not to hold pressure..
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Shifts on a flushette... Won't shift in the water?
In the water, disconnect the wires that lead to the lower unit. Apply 12v directly from the battery to the wires that lead to the lower unit via a jumper wire.
If the shift works okay, the problem is between that connection and the hsift switch.
If the shift is still faulty, the problem is with the lower unit wiring.
Can you rebuild the wire harness if it is rotted down to the solenoid? I'll post my findings.
On land it works fine with the jumper, just like advertised, but as soon as it goes in the water it stays in forward gear.
Yes, i tested it in the water, and on the landed. Pulled the solenoid cover off and solenoids are working fine, correct resistance, 6 ohms on each solenoid, wires look good. Putting it back together looks like it may be fun. There's no adjusting it when you put it back in is there? Silly question but had to ask.
ko4nrbs, I think the problem is in the LU (as per joe's post), because when the remote is taken out of the equation the problem is still there.
Hey Joe. Thanks for the replies. I get what you're saying that a good battery is very important for starting and shifting, but will it affect how the motor actually stays running (e.g.; produces spark) once she's fired? I'd love a copy of the wiring diagram if you're still willing to send it. The India in my manual isn't great. Thanks again!
Since the pulsepack is battey voltage energized, a poor battery would have an effect upon it... intermittently or permanently.
In one or your recent entries, you state that cleaning the oil pump screen allowed the lower unit to shift into neutral and also there was a gain of sorts going into reverse..... I would suggest double checking the cleanlines of that screen, and then look closely at the two rotating inner workings of the oil pump, also the wall surfaces of the pump along with the plunger that slides into the oil pump.
Should there be any scratches, gouges, imperfections of any kind, clean it all up with #600 (or higher) wet/dry black sandpaper. The #600 grade or higher would actually be a polishing grade rather than what one thinks of when sandpaper is mentioned. Everything in those areas needs to be moving smoothly.
I'm in the process of scanning the 1971 60hp electrical diagram now. Send me a PM and include your email address and I'll send it to you.
Refreshing my memory by viewing the diagram, you do not need to do any rewiring when removing the clipper circuit... simply remove it and forget it.[/QUOTE
Hey Joe,
Sent you my email in a PM as requested. Let me know if you don't get it please. The next time I have the lower off i am going to do exactly as you described above. Before I do that though I have to sort out this engine problem I'm having. If I can't get that sorted out the shifting won't be a problem. . I, read a couple of post you and others have made ref ignition trouble shooting and I have some good ideas to try. Everything in this motor is super clean, and I'm leaning to the CDI/coil. Can the amplifiers be rebuilt Joe?
Thanks again for all your help!
If the amplifiers can be rebuilt, I'm not aware of it... However technology has progressed to a point where just about anything is possible so possibly they can.
If the amplifiers can be rebuilt, I'm not aware of it... However technology has progressed to a point where just about anything is possible so possibly they can.