CDI Electronics Outboard Ignition Troubleshooting Guide

54 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE - Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting ENGINE ENGAGES S.L.O.W. (Limits at 2500 PM) WHEN THE NO OIL, LOW OIL OR FUEL VACUUM ALARM SOUNDS: 1. Disconnect engine harness. 2. Disconnect the Tan wires from the temperature sensors in both cylinder heads. 3. Using an VOM Meter, check the diode in the engine harness as follows: Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Approximate Reading Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector Tan Lead From Port Cyl Head 0.500 Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector Tan Lead From Stbd Cyl Head 0.500 Tan Lead From Stbd Cyl Head Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector OL or over 1.0 Tan Lead From Port Cyl Head Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector OL or over 1.0 NOTE: You can replace the diode in the harness with a 1N4007 diode available at most electronics stores. Six Cylinder Engines (Without Quick-Start) 1979-1988 150-235 HP Dual Power Pack Engines Service Note: Please use the Factory recommended spark plug (currently Champion QL77JC4) gapped at 0.030”. NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wires AT THE POWER PACKS and retest. If the engine’s ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. This is usually caused by a weak battery or dragging starter. Connect a battery charger on its highest setting to the battery and retest. If good spark, replace the starter and/or battery with an 850+ CCA cranking/dual purpose non-maintenance-free type. 4. Inspect and clean all engine and ignition ground connections. 5. Check the stator and timer base resistance and DVA output as given below for BOTH banks: WIRE READ TO OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected) (Disconnected) Brown Brown/Yellow 485-635 (9 Amp) 530-630 150-400 V 150-400 V (*) Brown Brown/Yellow 950-1100 (35 Amp) 900-1100 150-400 V 150-400 V (*) White Purple 15-50 (a) 0.6 V + 0.6 V + (#) White Blue 15-50 (a) 0.6 V + 0.6 V + (#) White Green 15-50 (a) 0.6 V + 0.6 V + (#) (*) This reading can be used to determine if a stator or pack has a problem. For instance, if you have no spark on any cylinder and the stator’s DVA reading is out of spec – disconnect the stator wires and recheck the DVA output. If the reading is still out of spec – the stator is bad. If the reading is now within spec – the pack is bad. (#) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one cylinder and the timer base’s DVA reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the timer base wires and recheck the DVA output. If the reading stays low – the timer base is bad. If the reading is now within spec – the pack is bad. (a) Use a comparison reading as the values for different years used different coils in the timer base. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all three tests and the correct output with the DVA meter for both sides, the timer base should be good. The exception would be if the insulation is breaking down while the engine is running. 6. Check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken and loose magnets. NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE BANK: 1. Swap the stator wire pairs from one side of the engine to the other side and see if the problem moves. If it does, the stator is bad. 2. Disconnect the stop wires from both power packs and retest. If the spark returns, swap the power packs and reconnect the stop circuit. If the no spark problem remains on the same bank, the stop circuit has a fault. If the problem moves, replace the power pack that was firing correctly due to a bad blocking diode in the pack. 3. Check the stator and timer base resistance and DVA output for BOTH banks (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).