CDI Electronics Outboard Ignition Troubleshooting Guide

46 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE - Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting the Orange wires. If one of the SCR’s inside the power pack is shorted or open, the readings will be quite a bit different. POWER PACK OR TIMER BASE REPEATEDLY BLOWS ON SAME CYLINDER: 1. Check the timer base wires for shorts to engine ground as a shorted timer base wire can destroy a SCR inside the power pack. 2. In contrast, a shorted SCR inside the power pack can destroy a timer base coil. Check the timer base resistance and DVA output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above). 3. Replace the ignition coil on the cylinder dropping spark. ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF: Disconnect the stop wire at the power pack. Connect a jumper wire to the stop wire from the pack and short it to engine ground. If this stops the pack from sparking, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch. If this does not stop the pack from sparking, replace the power pack. MISS AT ANY RPM: 1. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the miss clears, replace the rectifier. 2. In the water or on a Dynameters, check the DVA output on the Orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V DVA or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400V DVA maximum. A sharp drop in DVA right before the miss becomes apparent on all cylinders will normally be caused by a bad stator. A sharp drop in DVA on less than all cylinders will normally be the power pack or timer base. 3. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually indicates a problem in the power pack or ignition coil. Occasionally a timer base will cause this same problem. Check the timer base DVA voltage (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above). 4. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 5. Check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken and loose magnets. ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM (Runs smooth below that RPM): 1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating. 2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, the temperature switch is likely bad. Reconnect the Tan wire to the pack if it goes into the harness and disconnect the Tan wire from the temperature switch in the cylinder head. If the engine now performs normally, the temperature switch is defective. If it does not perform correctly, there is likely a problem in the engine harness, VRO (if equipped) or the boat harness. 3. Make sure the Tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire (RF interference can activate the SLOW function without sounding the warning horn.) ENGINE DIES WHEN QUICK-START DROPS OUT: Check ignition timing at idle with the White/Black temperature wire disconnected. Remember to allow for the drop in ignition timing when Quick-Start disengages. Verify ignition timing after engine has warmed up. ENGINE STAYS IN QUICK-START: 1. With the engine idling, check the Yellow/Red wire for DC voltage. If there is DC voltage over 2 volts on this wire while the engine is running, the Quick-Start will not disengage. A voltage of 5 to 7 volts will not engage the starter solenoid, yet will engage Quick-Start. 2. Short the White/Black temperature switch wire FROM the power pack to engine ground. Start the engine, if the Quick-Start drops out after approximately 5 seconds; replace the White/Black temperature switch. 3. Disconnect the Black/White wire from the power pack. If the Quick-Start feature is not now working, replace the power pack. ENGINE WILL NOT ENGAGE QUICK-START: 1. Disconnect the White/Black wire from the temperature sensor. 2. With the engine idling, check the Black/White timer base wire for DVA voltage. There should be about 6 to 10 volts on this wire while the engine is running for the Quick-Start to engage. If the voltage is not present, verify the power coil DVA voltage is between 10 and 22 volts from the Orange to Orange/Black connected. If the DVA is correct on the Orange to Orange/Black wires, but the DVA on the Black/White is not, replace the power pack. If the Black/White wire has the correct DVA voltage, but QuickStart does not work, replace the timerbase.