CDI Electronics Outboard Ignition Troubleshooting Guide

194 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE - Four Stroke NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER: 1. Swap the ignition coil of the cylinder not firing with one that has fire. If the no fire problem follows the ignition coil, replace the ignition coil. 2. If the ignition coil is good, replace the ECU. ENGINE KEEPS FOULING SPARK PLUGS: 1. Check the stator DVA output as follows: Check From: Check To: Idle 1500 RPM 3500 RPM Green/White Green/White 190 V minimum 200 V minimum 200 V 2. Check the resistance of the ignition coils. You should read between 2.72K (2720) to 3.68K (3680) ohms (cap removed) for each coil. The spark plug cap should read between 4K and 6 K ohms, through it. 3. Check the engine temperature. If the engine is not coming up to operating temperature, it will tend to foul the spark plugs. 4. Check the engine temperature sensor on a pan of water, as you warm it up. You should get the approximate readings below: Water Temp: @ 68 degrees @122 degrees @158 degrees 12.49K ohms 3.60 K ohms 1.75K ohms ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE ABOVE APPROXIMATELY 2000 RPM: 1. Verify the engine is not overheating or has low oil pressure and causing the power pack to limit the RPM. 2. Verify the oil pressure is over the minimum 2.25 PSI. 3. Disconnect the Pink wire from the power pack and retest. If the engine now performs correctly, check the overheat sensor and oil pressure sensor mounted on the engine. 4. Check ignition timing, it should be between approximately 3-7 degrees BTDC at idle to 19-21 degrees BTDC at about 3000. If he timing does not advance with RPM, replace the ignition pack. HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT RUN: 1. Check spark plug for presence of water, indicating a possible cracked block or blown head gasket. 2. Check compression, carburetor, reed blocks and do a cylinder leak down test (remember, a valve not seating properly, stuck rings, improper tappet clearance, damaged piston or a blown head gasket can cause a low reading for a leak down test). 3. Replace the sparkplugs. 4. Check the Timing Belt and verify the cam timing is correct. 5. Make sure the throttle plates are fully closed (the engine will not start if the warm-up lever is raised). 6. Make sure the engine is getting fuel to the combustion camber (no water or residue in the carburetor). 7. Check flywheel shear key to make sure it has not sheared due to backfiring or impact on the propeller. 8. Check the fuel in the carburetor. Check to see if there is a high ethanol content present. . If so, purge the fuel system with fresh fuel and see if the engine will start. 9. Check the fuel pressure AT THE CARBURETOR. You should see over 2 PSI. Check fuel lines for inner wall breakdown and wall collapse. 10. Check the Trigger as follows as a defective trigger can cause timing variance: Check From: Check To: Ohms Reading: DVA Reading Connected Red Black 300 to 350 6.9 V minimum WILL NOT STOP (KILL): 1. Disconnect the White wire from the CD Module. 2. Short the White wire from the CD Module to engine ground. If the engine stops, the problem is in the stop circuit. If the engine continues to run with the White wire shorted to engine ground, replace the defective CD Module. WILL NOT CHARGE BATTERY: 1. Check the resistance of the stator’s yellow wires as follows: Check From Check To Ohms Reading DVA Reading Connected Disconnected Yellow Yellow 0.9 to 1.1 (9 amp) 8 V minimum Yellow Yellow 0.26 to 0.28 (15 amp) 8 V minimum Yellow (each) Engine Ground Open - 1 V or less 2. Connect a inline ammeter between the regulator/rectifier’s Red wire and the positive battery post on the starter solenoid. Connect a battery tester to the battery and start the engine. Increase the engine RPM to approximately 1500-2000 RPM and press the test button on the battery tester. The ammeter should show at least 3 amps of