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Yanmar oil Q

ttolly

New member
I have a Yanmar 4PHM-TE (PH-TE); it has two oil fill ports. The standard one on top of the cylinder head, but another on what may be the oil pump--not sure. Can't find any mention of it in the service manual. It is located lower front port side of engine. There is a cap marked "oil" where apparently one is supposed to add. But how much or if in addition to what is added to the main block (10 quarts) unknown....or is this an either/or? one could add oil to either the top or side?
 
check the owner's (operation) manual for routine maintenance items. As a rule, if the cap indicates the fluid type, one can add via the hole it covers. That said, I'd be incline to use the 'traditional' port as long as there is adequate clearance.

The total oil quantity in the crankcase should be visible on the dipstick...Yanmar has had some unique dipstick marking concepts so again, check the operation manual for details...
 
check the owner's (operation) manual for routine maintenance items. As a rule, if the cap indicates the fluid type, one can add via the hole it covers. That said, I'd be incline to use the 'traditional' port as long as there is adequate clearance.

The total oil quantity in the crankcase should be visible on the dipstick...Yanmar has had some uniqueDo dipstick marking concepts so again, check the operation manual for details...
thx Mak yes, both are accessible. It takes 10.5 quarts approx. I was thinking after I sent that Q that perhaps the two fill ports were for convenience in case one was not accessible. Just wanted to be sure they weren't somehow two separate systems. I'm going to double check to see it appears that both access the crankcase, which I would assume...

Do you know this engine? The other thing I was curious about is the zincs. There are 6 total. Two on the oil cooler and 4 on the fresh water tank. I am assuming that the oil cooler is raw water cooled, which is unfortunate, since I guess eventually the salt will corrode that component--not sue why Yanmar didn't tie that into the fresh water system--maybe too much extra heat to deal with efficiently? Also wondering if the zincs in the water cooling system will drain from the fresh water or sea water components when I remove them? I can't budge them, and not sure what size the nuts are. I removed the two in the oil cooler with a 13/16 I think, but I assume that was probably an approx. and they are actually a MM size? I can try to measure with micrometer later, but would you happen to know?
 
Have dealt with a few yanmars but not that particular one...
Every pencil zinc I have changed has been on the raw water side...no need for them on the coolant side as long as the coolant is serviceable.
I would bet the fittings on the zinc are all metric...if they are really tight, it's probably due to 1) they were overtightened or 2) they haven't been checked at the normal interval...a good 6 point socket and a breaker bar should free them...
 
Have dealt with a few yanmars but not that particular one...
Every pencil zinc I have changed has been on the raw water side...no need for them on the coolant side as long as the coolant is serviceable.
I would bet the fittings on the zinc are all metric...if they are really tight, it's probably due to 1) they were overtightened or 2) they haven't been checked at the normal interval...a good 6 point socket and a breaker bar should free them...
Thx--yes, I was wondering why the zincs would be in fresh as they appear. The salt circulates through an internal set of tubes, and the fresh circulates around the outside of those tubes, so not sure how they are getting the zincs into that tube system, and was afraid they might somehow be in the fresh water side and all the coolant would drain out when I replace zincs, which makes 0 sense...

Breaker bar--yep, got hold of the breaker I used to remove rear axle from a 59 VW bus years ago... hopefully will do it...also sprayed with some "Freeze Out"
 
... The salt circulates through an internal set of tubes, and the fresh circulates around the outside of those tubes...
that's the opposite of every heat exchange I've seen...may wanna revisit the description in whatever manual you have...
 
yeah--that's what it says, which I thought odd. I guess once I take the zincs out I'll see what comes out behind them...
 
Here is the statement and pic from service manual:

1743442801815.png
 
The only other thing I can think is they are describing two different models, since this pic looks different from the one describing the sea water system:
1743443258223.png
 
Sorry, the "fresh water " in the description confused me...the coolant flows over the core and the raw (sea) water flows thru the core...
 
The Yanmar 4PHM & 4PHM-TE
Heat Exchanger is a 2 pass design with Anti Freeze Coolant on the outside of a bronze tube bundle and raw sea water on the inside.
Each is isolated by rubber O Rings on the 2 end caps which contain 2 zincs each. I upgraded my 2 rubber O Rings to Nitrile. The oil cooler tube bundle is bronze as well.
Yanmar is All Metric so all bolts and nuts including zinc cap plugs are MM.
Each Zinc plug cap PN 122780-09320 has a copper washer PN 23414-250000 for anti seize.
 
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