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Yama F100 Clean water chambers on block

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pdlj

New member
Head is removed and there are lots of deposits in water chambers on block. Can't clean with brush, openings too narrow. Want to specifically clean areas due to internal coating failure and paint with zinc chromate paint.
Also noticed a couple areas that have heavy corrosion to cylinder walls.
What can I use to dissolve deposits clean enough to paint? Looking at some type of "aluma brite products.
 
pdlj said:
Head is removed and there are lots of deposits in water chambers on block. Can't clean with brush, openings too narrow. Want to specifically clean areas due to internal coating failure and paint with zinc chromate paint.
Also noticed a couple areas that have heavy corrosion to cylinder walls.
What can I use to dissolve deposits clean enough to paint? Looking at some type of "aluma brite products.
Click to expand...

What prompted you to remove the head?

Are you saying that the water passages in the block are too restricted to insert a brush? How big is your brush? If the water passages in the block are significantly restricted, (like it sounds that they are) your motor is probably overheating.

Are you also saying that you are seeing "corrosion" on the cylinder walls?

Is this a salt water motor? If so, the deposits in the block are salt related residues that can build up over time, especially if the motor was not flushed with fresh water regularly and can build up more quickly if the motor is not being properly cooled. If the "corrosion" is in fact scoring of the cylinder walls, this can be a result of over heating as well.

If it were me, I would replace the head, torque the bolts to specs in the proper order and do a compression test. If the results were unacceptable, you may have a game changer.
 
Last edited:
Re: Yama F100 TLRY 4 CYL/CARB Clean water chambers on block

labtek said:
What prompted you to remove the head?

Are you saying that the water passages in the block are too restricted to insert a brush? How big is your brush? If the water passages in the block are significantly restricted, (like it sounds that they are) your motor is probably overheating.

Are you also saying that you are seeing "corrosion" on the cylinder walls?

Is this a salt water motor? If so, the deposits in the block are salt related residues that can build up over time, especially if the motor was not flushed with fresh water regularly and can build up more quickly if the motor is not being properly cooled. If the "corrosion" is in fact scoring of the cylinder walls, this can be a result of over heating as well.

If it were me, I would replace the head, torque the bolts to specs in the proper order and do a compression test. If the results were unacceptable, you may have a game changer.
Click to expand...

THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR REPLY !!!

HISTORY FOR REMOVING HEAD:
Yamaha - Hoping I can get some info on where and how water gets into engine oil. My motor only has 175 hours and looks like brand new externally. I purchased from my uncle 1 year ago and I only used motor 5 times. Had water pump rebuilt and carbs cleaned before using. Drained engine oil and it was fine.
Checked oil prior to starting a couple days ago and the oil was cream colored, shocking and disappointing. I drained and all of it was cream color and some of it was thick. When I pulled plug a little clear water, approx. a teaspoon, came out then muck oil.

Removed thermostat - crusty and stuck open. Purchased new and installed.
Removed contaminated oil and put new oil, ran engine for 5-10 mins. prior to performing both test.

2000 Yama F100TLRY/4cyl,/4 carb results before disassemble:
Compression test (psig) - #1 thru #4 = 210/215 psig - Yamaha specs min. pressure = 135 psig. Engine was warmed before this test.
Leak test (loss %) - #1 - 2%, #2 - 4%, #3 - 1%, #4 - 2% - engine wasn't as warm before test.
Could hear air leaking from oil fill cap hole/dip stick. None from exhaust, minor from intake air chamber.
[FONT=verdana, geneva]These test results look very good to me. Glad about that but no indication from test for water/oil problem?[/FONT]

[FONT=verdana, geneva]ANSWERS TO YOUR POST:[/FONT]
[FONT=verdana, geneva]Water jacket openings at cylinder walls are 3/8" wide x 3" deep. My concern at piston walls is several corroded areas - particularly on #3 piston. Trying to clean well enough to paint with zinc chromate or something else/better? because factory paint is gone. I was able to remove most solid deposits using screwdriver/scrapers don't have SS brush small enough to clean. Heavy corrosion of head wall located at bottom water /oil passage but the gasket surface looked good. Had head weld repaired / re-machined, ready to reinstall. Hope this is the only area that caused water in oil issue?

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