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Won’t start when hot help needed please

S

San210

New member
I have a 2014 210 fitted with a 5.7 v8 pcm ex 343 fuel injection engine.
Starts on the button every time when cold but once hot it just spins over and won’t fire
I’ve changed plugs and distributer and fuel filter.
I have spark and it stinks of fuel when I’ve been trying to start.
It sounds like it’s flooded but not sure how unless the injectors are leaking fuel when it’s turned off if that’s possible?
Not sure if it’s a coincidence but it’s started to do this after I’ve fitted a surf pipe so wasn’t sure if I’d knocked something on the engine as it was tight to get in to the exhaust.
Any help would be much appreciated 👍
 
never hurts to scan it for trouble codes...

Injectors could leak but if that happened, it should occur all the time.

I'd suspect its the heat...cool the engine down at 1500 RPM idle for 3-5 minutes before you shut it down....once turned off, open the engine cover...I know, not always possible ...

When hot, if you think its flooded, open the throttle 100% and then crank it over...as soon as engine starts, close the throttle...
 
The strange thing is it’s never done it before and I’ve always just turned it straight off.
I can’t throttle it when starting as it won’t let it start if it’s in gear.
 
San210 said:
I have a 2014 210 fitted with a 5.7 v8 pcm ex 343 fuel injection engine.
Starts on the button every time when cold but once hot it just spins over and won’t fire
I’ve changed plugs and distributer and fuel filter.
I have spark and it stinks of fuel when I’ve been trying to start.
It sounds like it’s flooded but not sure how unless the injectors are leaking fuel when it’s turned off if that’s possible?
Not sure if it’s a coincidence but it’s started to do this after I’ve fitted a surf pipe so wasn’t sure if I’d knocked something on the engine as it was tight to get in to the exhaust.
Any help would be much appreciated 👍
Click to expand...
Do you have black soot on the transom? Did you check for spark, or assume you needed those parts?

Check the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor- if it reads higher than it should, the ECM will deliver too much fuel. Open the throttle a bit in Neutral- if it starts easily, I would bet that the ECT is bad.

That sensor has one yellow wire, one black wire. Measure its DC resistance with a multimeter- if it's much higher than what the chart shows for a given temperature, replace it. The chart shows the resistance range-

1753728763671.png
 
jimn said:
Do you have black soot on the transom? Did you check for spark, or assume you needed those parts?

Check the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor- if it reads higher than it should, the ECM will deliver too much fuel. Open the throttle a bit in Neutral- if it starts easily, I would bet that the ECT is bad.

That sensor has one yellow wire, one black wire. Measure its DC resistance with a multimeter- if it's much higher than 1K Ohms, replace it. The chart shows the resistance range-

View attachment 35797
Click to expand...
I checked the distributed cap when it first started playing and the terminals where badly corded so I replaced it.
When it wouldn't start the other day I checked for spark at the coil and it was good.
I’ll check the for black soot tomorrow and I’ll measure resistance on ect also.
Could you tell me where the ect is located please?
Also can I check this when the engine is cold and not running or does it need to be faulting at the time?
Thanks
 
San210 said:
It only has the lever which is locked into neutral and when you take it out of neutral it stops the starter unless I’m missing something?
Click to expand...
Can you show the throttle? I would be surprised if it won't start in neutral, but I don't know what make of boat you have. I saw 210 as the model, but I have seen a lot of boats with that model number. If you advance the throttle without using a neutral button, it won't start- watch the Neutral Safety switch when you use the Neutral button or lever.
 
jimn said:
Do you have black soot on the transom? Did you check for spark, or assume you needed those parts?

Check the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor- if it reads higher than it should, the ECM will deliver too much fuel. Open the throttle a bit in Neutral- if it starts easily, I would bet that the ECT is bad.

That sensor has one yellow wire, one black wire. Measure its DC resistance with a multimeter- if it's much higher than what the chart shows for a given temperature, replace it. The chart shows the resistance range-

View attachment 35797
Click to expand...
 

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  • IMG_0865.jpeg
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push in (horizontally, towards the outside <starboard> of the boat) the button where the throttle lever pivots...that will 'disconnect' the gear selection and allow throttle only control with the lever...return it to vertical (N) position and the button should pop back out and enable the gear select function...
 
makomark said:
push in (horizontally, towards the outside <starboard> of the boat) the button where the throttle lever pivots...that will 'disconnect' the gear selection and allow throttle only control with the lever...return it to vertical (N) position and the button should pop back out and enable the gear select function...
Click to expand...
Mine must be broken then as it’s solid and won’t push in.
I’ll strip it down and take a look.
 
makomark said:
push in (horizontally, towards the outside <starboard> of the boat) the button where the throttle lever pivots...that will 'disconnect' the gear selection and allow throttle only control with the lever...return it to vertical (N) position and the button should pop back out and enable the gear select function...
Click to expand...
When I zoom in on that photo, it seems to have a bolt in the center.
 
San210 said:
No the black cone u see the knob lifts up like you say to engage gear but the button in the middle of the gear stick where it bolts on doesn’t push in
Click to expand...
Have you ever used that button? How long have you owned the boat? Has it been used on salt or brackish water?

Maybe a shot of penetrant would help.
 
jimn said:
Do you have black soot on the transom? Did you check for spark, or assume you needed those parts?

Check the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor- if it reads higher than it should, the ECM will deliver too much fuel. Open the throttle a bit in Neutral- if it starts easily, I would bet that the ECT is bad.

That sensor has one yellow wire, one black wire. Measure its DC resistance with a multimeter- if it's much higher than what the chart shows for a given temperature, replace it. The chart shows the resistance range-

View attachment 35797
Click to expand...
IMG_0876.jpeg


Here’s the reading for the temp sensor.
It will only read on 20k any lower and it just reads 1.
Not sure if that’s 386 ohms or 3860 ohms ?
Engine is stone cold
 
San210 said:
View attachment 35810

Here’s the reading for the temp sensor.
It will only read on 20k any lower and it just reads 1.
Not sure if that’s 386 ohms or 3860 ohms ?
Engine is stone cold
Click to expand...
That means 3.86K Ohms, which corresponds to roughly 59°F- that's exactly what I referred to WRT low temperature from sensor to ECM vs hot engine. At 59°F, it's getting too much gas. If possible, go to an auto parts store and measure the resistance on a new part- it should be ~2700 (or 2.7K) Ohms. It's out of range.
 
jimn said:
That means 3.86K Ohms, which corresponds to roughly 59°F- that's exactly what I referred to WRT low temperature from sensor to ECM vs hot engine. At 59°F, it's getting too much gas. If possible, go to an auto parts store and measure the resistance on a new part- it should be ~2700 (or 2.7K) Ohms. It's out of range.
Click to expand...
Ok that makes sense.
Would the sensor not be reading the temperature of the water now which would be around the 59*f as the engine hasn’t been run for over 24 hours?
 
it will read the coolant temp in the block...if the engine has been dormant for over a day, its probably close to the air temp...if its in the mid 60's (deg F) where you are, then the ECT is accurate enough...
 
makomark said:
it will read the coolant temp in the block...if the engine has been dormant for over a day, its probably close to the air temp...if its in the mid 60's (deg F) where you are, then the ECT is accurate enough...
Click to expand...
yes air temp here is around the low 60's so looks like its reading correctly. would it be worth checking again when on the lake when engine is hot or if its working ok now it should be ok when hot?
 
jimn said:
I e-mailed Nautique- will post their answer.

BTW- it would help if you can clean the wires- hard to see the colors clear
Click to expand...

jimn said:
I e-mailed Nautique- will post their answer.

BTW- it would help if you can clean the wires- hard to see the colors clearly.
Click to expand...
Sorted the throttle.
The button in the centre had seized.
Cleaned it up and it push’s in good now.
Thanks 👍
 
San210 said:
yes air temp here is around the low 60's so looks like its reading correctly. would it be worth checking again when on the lake when engine is hot or if its working ok now it should be ok when hot?
Click to expand...
Yes- definitely worthwhile-they can fail by not changing resistance with increased temperature. If not nothing else, if the hot start problem occurs again, you can open the throttle and see if it will start- at that time, I would also measure the resistance to see if it changed, or you can remove the sender and put it in a pan of water on the stove- start at room temperature and re-measure as the water becomes warmer, comparing the resistance with the chart as you check the temperature.

As you saw after measuring the resistance, it showed 3.68 K Ohms- how does that compare with air temperature?
 
I’d say it matches the current air temp at the time of testing it at 3.68k
I’m going to check the fuel pressure tonight see what that is saying.
Other than that I’m not sure where else to look really
 
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