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Won’t shift to forward

1989 5.0. New engine dropped in. New sterndrive. New cable. When I first got it running it shifted into both forward and reverse. Put it in the water. Wouldn’t go into forward. It went into reverse. What adjustment do I make to get forward gear?
 
1. You make no mention on who installed cable and how it was installed, There are certain details that may require review.

That said here is my adjustment procedure. Like it or not, I know it works and has always it worked for me.


Trim outdrive up 2 inches from all the way down.

Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!

Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket. The one that goes to the outdrive.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Gently Install short shift cable still in forward gear back onto shift bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the brass barrel so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before completely installing it turn the brass barrel 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket and install the nuts but do not tighten at this time.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FURTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock detent position NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

If this all works then tighten all nuts down making sure the cable ends move freely and the nuts are not tight against the shift cable ends (washers should spin freely) . The studs must spin freely inside the cable ends.

Try this and retest in water under load.


If the stalling when shifting into forward or reverse still occurs then you may need a short shift cable replacement or the shift linkage in the bell housing has issues.
 
1. You make no mention on who installed cable and how it was installed, There are certain details that may require review.

That said here is my adjustment procedure. Like it or not, I know it works and has always it worked for me.


Trim outdrive up 2 inches from all the way down.

Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!

Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket. The one that goes to the outdrive.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Gently Install short shift cable still in forward gear back onto shift bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the brass barrel so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before completely installing it turn the brass barrel 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket and install the nuts but do not tighten at this time.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FURTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock detent position NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

If this all works then tighten all nuts down making sure the cable ends move freely and the nuts are not tight against the shift cable ends (washers should spin freely) . The studs must spin freely inside the cable ends.

Try this and retest in water under load.


If the stalling when shifting into forward or reverse still occurs then you may need a short shift cable replacement or the shift linkage in the bell housing has issues.
Thank you. I installed a new cable when I inherited the boat. Had it out two times when the down shaft in the outdrive sheared. 14 years of Neglect. I thought I was done with it so it wasn’t winterized. My son wanted to then fix it. We got a new outdrive. Installed it. Started it. Cracked block. Bought a new engine. Installed it. Like I said when I first started it, it went into both forward and reverse. I have since pulled the outdrive and freshened up with new bellows, hoses, trim sender and limit. Waiting on delivery of shift shaft bushings/seal before reassembling. I will do the adjustment the way you’ve explained. I was just wondering if the cable from the remote control would need adjusting. I’ll be back once I get to that point. But it’s damn near boating time. I’m working lots of overtime to pay for a bunch of s, so not much time in between that and other life happenings to work on it. Though that is my priority. Thanks again
 
Thank you. I installed a new cable when I inherited the boat. Had it out two times when the down shaft in the outdrive sheared. 14 years of Neglect. I thought I was done with it so it wasn’t winterized. My son wanted to then fix it. We got a new outdrive. Installed it. Started it. Cracked block. Bought a new engine. Installed it. Like I said when I first started it, it went into both forward and reverse. I have since pulled the outdrive and freshened up with new bellows, hoses, trim sender and limit. Waiting on delivery of shift shaft bushings/seal before reassembling. I will do the adjustment the way you’ve explained. I was just wondering if the cable from the remote control would need adjusting. I’ll be back once I get to that point. But it’s damn near boating time. I’m working lots of overtime to pay for a bunch of s, so not much time in between that and other life happenings to work on it. Though that is my priority. Thanks again
when you installed the new out drive (assuming given year it is an alpha gen 1?) did you put the two halves of the outdrive together? lower may not have been in fwd when that was done, ben there done that...
 
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