"Start the engine and allow it
"Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal operating temperature.
CAUTION: Water must circulate through the stern drive to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the stern drive. Just a short while without water can damage the pump.
If the engine is equipped with a closed or fresh-water cooling system, check the anti- freeze.
Add rust inhibitor if the anti-freeze has been used for more than one season.
If the solution is contaminated; flush and re- place with a new mixture of 50/50 ethylene glycol and water.
Stop the engine, drain the oil in the crankcase, and remove the oil filter.
Install a NEW filter element; and then fill the crankcase with the prescribed weight and amount of oil.
Start the engine and allow it to run at a high idle for a few minutes.
Stop the engine and check the oil level as indicated on the dip stick.
Some amount of oil may remain in the engine without draining down into the crankcase.
A slightly lower reading may be indicated on the dip stick.
Add only enough oil to bring the reading into the safe running range above the ADD mark to allow for the amount of oil still in various areas of the engine.
Add the recommended amount of 2+4 Fuel stabilizer to fuel tank and fill tank with fuel to prevent condensation build-up over winter.
Start the engine and run it at a fast idle.
Remove the flame arrestor and SLOWLY pour about a pint of 20-20W SAE oil into the carburetor air intake while running the engine at a fast idle.
Pour the last 4 or so ounces in fast enough to shut motor down or turn it off immediately.
Order storage and fogging spray or it can be purchased at your local Boat shop to spray in carburetor and in spark plug holes instead of 20-20W oil.
Clean the fuel filter and sediment bowl. Install the bowl with a NEW gasket.
Clean the flame arrestor in solvent, and then blow it dry with compressed air.
Lubricate the steering, throttle, and shift control linkage.
Remove all of the spark plugs and squirt about a teaspoonful of 20-20 oil or spray Fogging oil into each cylinder.
Crank the engine over several times to allow the oil to coat the cylinders.
Remove any excess oil from around the spark plug holes, and then install the spark plugs.
If the engine is equipped with a raw-water cooling system, open all of the engine and manifold water jacket drains.
Allow the water to drain completely.
ALWAYS have the stern drive in a horizontal position when draining the system to ensure all of the water is able to leave the system.
If the stern drive is not horizontal, water will be trapped inside.
Leave all of the drains open.
Disconnect the water hoses at the lowest end and allow them to drain.
Loosen adjustment bolts to relax tension on fan belts as needed.
Hit all the grease fitting with your grease gun and apply some lube to moving parts,linkages, etc.
Clean any rusted areas on engine and touch up with paint or primer.
After that dries wipe entire motor down with an oily rag or spray with a good corrosion and rust preventive.
You're about done in the boat; cover the engine; disconnect the batteries and remove them to a cool dry area inside your garage for the winter.
I haven't covered washing and waxing the hull or cleaning and preventing mildew etc. in the cabin, but that's mostly elbow grease and soap.
Also, Get a good quality cover for your boat that breathes.
Keep it Clean - Your boat bottom will be quickest if it is perfectly smooth. Dirt and slime buildup will slow you down. Clean the bottom with a strong cleaner. Wet sand any tough bumps in the running surface with 400-600 grit paper.
You don't need wax, in some cases it may slow you down.
Ohhh yea, and dont buy a manual, thats what this website is for!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAH.....LOL...off the water to fish......LATER...."
