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Winterize question

S

skinut1

Contributing Member
How many blue drain plugs does a 2006 Mercruiser 350 mag have? I have found 4 ( 2 on raw water pump, 1 at thermostat, 1 on bottom right side of engine at low drain point). For some reason I thought there was 5? I hate to miss one and it cost me an engine!!
As always, Thanks for the help.
 
there should be :
2 - on the raw water pump
2- on each side of the engine block
1- power steering cooler
1 - cool fuel unit low port side or water chamber cool fuel unit mounted stbd side
 
skinut1 said:
How many blue drain plugs does a 2006 Mercruiser 350 mag have? I have found 4 ( 2 on raw water pump, 1 at thermostat, 1 on bottom right side of engine at low drain point). For some reason I thought there was 5? I hate to miss one and it cost me an engine!!
As always, Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Always...... always...... always refer to your OEM service manual when it comes to this ..... and make sure that it is the correct manual for YOUR Engine's serial number!
Forum information is great...... but.... this is too important.
One misinterpretation or one misunderstanding, and you may be at risk!


And please.... DO NOT attempt to use one of the winterizing kits that introduces Antifreeze into your Raw Water Cooled Marine Engine. Not unless you have years of experience and know exactly what you are doing!


.
 
2004 Mag - You MAY have what mercury calls a 3-point + vent (thermostat) drain systems but always take Ricardo advice about the engine & S/N. Not sure why he dislike's winterizing kits but that's another matter.


 
sab said:
2004 Mag - You MAY have what mercury calls a 3-point + vent (thermostat) drain systems but always take Ricardo advice about the engine & S/N.
Not sure why he dislike's winterizing kits but that's another matter.

Click to expand...

Most of these kits are used by inexperienced do-it-your-self'rs....... and that's where the trouble might begin.
Take a minute and read my 2012 write-up.
https://www.amazon.com/review/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt



.
 
I Camco twice (10 gallons with -50) on muffs and then drain through the 3 point + vent system (I wash my drain dollars drain away).

My biggest complaint is I can't fog intake/engine after/during Camco. (Removing plugs is a pain in butt to Fog, and not sure its value for the 4-5 months.) In addition, who's to say the engine is level, or if engine design, on the boat motor mounts/trailer/cradle is level for draining (where's air cleaner level bubble?). Chevy (car) block right? I do believe it is a 3-point crack system, but that just adds to the reason for the -50 first then drain (address water pockets).
 
This year I used a home built setup similar to the 'Camco Winterizer'. But here's the gotcha....I didn't simply run on the hose to warm up the engine then switch to antifreeze. Here was my process:
1) Warm up engine running on garden hose
2) Extract engine oil
3) Refill engine oil and change filter
4) OPEN ALL 5 DRAINS (BLOCK, EXHAUST, WATER PUMP) AND EMPTY RAW WATER FROM ENGINE
5) Connect antifreeze delivery tank to muffs
6) start engine and run all 5 gallons of antifreeze through.

This process had antifreeze running out the exhaust for about a minute. I think this should be pretty thorough and the tiny bit of water that might be left in block crevice should be well mixed with antifreeze and not cause a problem.

In the past I've always drained the block then removed the hoses at the water neck (T-stat housing). I then poured antifreeze into each one until they filled or I could hear antifreeze running out on the ground.

KJ
 
sab said:
I Camco twice (10 gallons with -50) on muffs and then drain through the 3 point + vent system (I wash my drain dollars drain away).

My biggest complaint is I can't fog intake/engine after/during Camco. (Removing plugs is a pain in butt to Fog, and not sure its value for the 4-5 months.) In addition, who's to say the engine is level, or if engine design, on the boat motor mounts/trailer/cradle is level for draining (where's air cleaner level bubble?). Chevy (car) block right? I do believe it is a 3-point crack system, but that just adds to the reason for the -50 first then drain (address water pockets).
Click to expand...

When done correctly, fogging a carbureted engine can be done in 8 to 10 seconds. The Key is holding approx 1,200 RPM while a helper cuts the ignition source while you continue to Fog equally into each plane (V engines) until all comes to rest.

With the seawater pump impeller removed for the fogging process, this will also give you a short "dry start" to blow the exhaust out.

Remember..... we DO NOT fog (in the conventional sense) a FI engine. For these, we introduce an oil-enriched fuel mixture into the system.


.
 
kevinj said:
This year I used a home built setup similar to the 'Camco Winterizer'. But here's the gotcha....I didn't simply run on the hose to warm up the engine then switch to antifreeze. Here was my process:
1) Warm up engine running on garden hose
2) Extract engine oil
3) Refill engine oil and change filter
4) OPEN ALL 5 DRAINS (BLOCK, EXHAUST, WATER PUMP) AND EMPTY RAW WATER FROM ENGINE
5) Connect antifreeze delivery tank to muffs
6) start engine and run all 5 gallons of antifreeze through.

This process had antifreeze running out the exhaust for about a minute. I think this should be pretty thorough and the tiny bit of water that might be left in block crevice should be well mixed with antifreeze and not cause a problem.

In the past I've always drained the block then removed the hoses at the water neck (T-stat housing). I then poured antifreeze into each one until they filled or I could hear antifreeze running out on the ground.

KJ
Click to expand...


Please re-read my write-up, and in particular the portion regarding the Raw Water cooled engine seawater (I.E., Camco Kit antifreeze) that is by-passing the actual cooling demands and is going right out the exhaust.
This should help you understand why we see so much Antifreeze exiting the exhaust.... of which gives us the false impression that this Un-Diluted antifreeze has made it through the cylinder block/heads.

For those who insist upon using these silly kits, drain everything afterwards and you will be OK.
 
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