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Winterize a Volvo AQ131A

R

rfinkel

Member
"I recently purchased a Glasst

"I recently purchased a Glasstream with a 1987 AQ131A and will need to winterize it at the end of the season. i would appreciate any help that I can get.
I know that you have to drain the fresh water system. Is removing the pump cover and impeller enough to drain the engine block? Are there any other engine block drains on the AQ131A that need to be opened?
Should I circulate antifreeze or other rust/corrosion inhibitors through the fresh water system prior to draining it?

In addition to adding fuel stabilizer, how long must the stabilized fuel run through the engine?
How does one "fog the carburator"? Is the fog sprayed into the carburator air intake with the fuel running? How long do you spray?
Any othe rust/corrosion inhibiting advice?
Thanks"
 
"Actually, the raw water syste

"Actually, the raw water system must be drained. Forget stabilizing and fogging unless the engine is to be stored for more than one year. If it is to be stored for more than one year, add some stuff to the tank and remove the hose from the fuel pump, plug it and drain the carburetor or run the engine until the carb is dry."
 
"There's got to be someone

"There's got to be someone out there with an easier way, or more experience than I, but here's how I did my '86 AQ131 last year:

I somehow managed to get the raw water hose off that elbow that always corrodes on the outdrive. I found an old washing machine hose, connector and all, would fit about right in the fresh water hose. I wrapped up the whole end of the washing machine hose in electrical tape to prevent air leaks, and clamped it into the fresh water hose. Then I started the motor with my washing machine hose in a gallon of RV antifreeze. It took a gallon or maybe two, but when I saw pink coming out the outdrive, I called it good.

A little Stabil in the tank and it sat from October till May with no ill effects that I could discern.

This is not a professional opinion, only stating what worked for me last year. I sure ain't gonna pay someone $300 to winterize this $1500 boat."
 
""Winterizing" is subj

""Winterizing" is subject to interpretation. Many years ago, I started out like Richard with the fogging oil and stuff. A waste of time. However, the engine block and pipes must be drained or infused with 50/50 ala Bob. Normally, an engine block is equipped with drains and should not be that hard to locate. (check the book). The main danger of winter is ice and snow. Make sure the boat is protected from that. What could happen is that the bilge pump freezes up or the drain freezes up, or clogs up from leaves and crud, and melt water fills the bilge, not good. Personally, I drain the raw water pumps (fresh water cooled) and other fittings specified by Volvo and throw a tarp over the boat. Tilt outdrive down. Sometimes, I spray 6-56 on the engines before covering everything up. That's it. After many years, I've never experienced a winter woe, no fuel problems, nothing has ever seized up or anything else.

There was a time when I got out of boating due to injury. The boat sat under its tarp for five years without being touched. All that was needed to get the engines running was remove the carbs for cleaning, install batteries and do a tuneup. To this day, the 250B's burn no oil or give any problems other than an occasional hiccup from one of the Solex's."
 
"I always suggest to drain and

"I always suggest to drain and refill the drive, that way you don't put it away with possible water in it for a long duration. It's only 3 qts of motor oil and that's pretty cheap insurance."
 
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