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Which way does the gimbal seal face

H

HPwannabe

Member
Pre-alpha 898.
Looking at the seal surface itself, it might not matter, but I’m sure there’s a right way and wrong way to do this. I don’t have a manual that shows the orientation clearly. Unfortunately, I failed to retain the orientation for reference when I removed the old one.
Thanks in advance.
 
Gimbal bearing seal. There were supposed to be a picture in the original post, but somehow it did not attach. Maybe too big. I will try compressing it.
 

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I dont have my laptop now and the parts diagram for that on this site is not clear.

That being said, the seal lip (inside diameter)should face the engine in my opinion. But i am not 100% Sure.

The seal is to keep water or gear oil from flowing into bildge.

If you can determine the seal lip then have it face the engine UNLESS someone else can chime in who knows for sure.

I have never replaced one in over 30 years.
 
Based on newer drives (alpha) which uses the same seal,
The way you are holding it in the photo, the flat side which we cant see of the OD of the seal faces the engine.
 
kghost said:
Based on newer drives (alpha) which uses the same seal,
The way you are holding it in the photo, the flat side which we cant see of the OD of the seal faces the engine.
Click to expand...
I finally found a sketch showing it exactly as you say. I take your point about not changing one in 30 years. But given the cost and ease of changing it, what the heck. Having pulled this sterndrive down almost as far as it will go, removed, replaced or rebuilt pretty much everything, including gimbal and bell housings and rebuilding the boat transom, it’s a small thing.
 
HPwannabe said:
I finally found a sketch showing it exactly as you say. I take your point about not changing one in 30 years. But given the cost and ease of changing it, what the heck. Having pulled this sterndrive down almost as far as it will go, removed, replaced or rebuilt pretty much everything, including gimbal and bell housings and rebuilding the boat transom, it’s a small thing.
Click to expand...
if you are using a newer permalube gimbal bearing the seal isn't needed. I just changed my original (greaseable) gimbal bearing in my 2004 boat the cavity between bearing and this seal was packed with grease...
 
I’m using the greasable type bearing. I agree, it’s probably not absolutely necessary anyway, even with the greasable version, unless you’re in the habit of over-greasing the thing to the point that grease is rolling out into the bilge. Seems mainly to keep things “isolated”. Maybe in the event you get extreme bilge water level, you might flood your bearing and possibly u joints.
 
HPwannabe said:
I’m using the greasable type bearing. I agree, it’s probably not absolutely necessary anyway, even with the greasable version, unless you’re in the habit of over-greasing the thing to the point that grease is rolling out into the bilge. Seems mainly to keep things “isolated”. Maybe in the event you get extreme bilge water level, you might flood your bearing and possibly u joints.
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With a grease able bearing it makes sense. My bearing was 20 years old and had quite a lot of grease built up.

I’m sure the perma lube wont last that long. I replaced my perma lube ujoints 2 winters ago. Each joint was ribbed on two legs of the cross. 300 hrs
 
Dieter said:
With a grease able bearing it makes sense. My bearing was 20 years old and had quite a lot of grease built up.

I’m sure the perma lube wont last that long. I replaced my perma lube ujoints 2 winters ago. Each joint was ribbed on two legs of the cross. 300 hrs
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I’m using greasable u joints also. Related question - when I installed my new joints, I noticed some of the cups are just slip fit in the yoke bore. The clips of course keep things in place but are these supposed to be interference fit?
 
Droid said:
Yes, interference fit. Either you used Chineseum junk or the holes are worn.
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I’ve been looking into it some. There are lots of ideas out there on how to manage the issue. Lots of people suggest loktite and other methods. The lower unit input shaft is new. It’s the center yoke that has the slop. Being a cheapskate, I’m considering alternatives to replacement.
 
HPwannabe said:
Correction. After checking back over everything, the problem is in engine output shaft yoke. Only one of the cups slips.
Click to expand...
You may be able to stake it to tighten up the slop. Loctite also makes a green retaining compound for situations like this.

Does it look like the cup was spinning in the bore like would happen when the needles seize
 
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