which cable to tweek for shifting?

[lime4x4]

I replaced the lower shift cable. I installed and adjusted as per instructions i found here. It's a 1986 alpha drive. I have the shift cable set to 6 inches and the shift stud all the way down (towards engine). The boat shifts great from reverse to neutral. When in forward i have to go just a hair past the neutral detent to activate the cut out switch. Any ideas as to which cable needs to be tweeked slightly to activate the switch just a tad sooner when going from forward to neutral?

 

[kghost]

Use the adjustment where the slot is in the arm where the short shift cable attaches to start with. It is rare the stud is ALL the way in either direction of the slot. Also with age and use the switch arm can be slightly bent out of the V notch, so a slight (a very slight) tweek of the switch arm into the V notch may help.

Try that and report back.

There are several other issues to check, One that is over looked is the U shaped link that the bronze shift arm slides into (at the gimbal housing)

This U shaped link end gets widened over time from bad installations and it should be tight to the bronze arm, Maybe 1/16" or less side to side slop.


Also your shift control cable may be worn.

With the shift control cable removed, shift to full forward wide open throttle, make a mark at the cable end where the plastic is, then shift all the way into reverse wide open throttle and make another mark.

The measurement should be between 2 7/8 -3 1/8 inches. If more then the shift control cable must be replaced.

 

[RicardoMarine]

The OEM engineers had to choose an initial cable adjustment dimension for average Joe mechanic and average Joe user. These are close ONLY.... and are subject to further adjustment.

The whole idea is to center the Dog Clutch sliding sleeve equally between the two driven gears while in neutral. The pre-determined dimensions get you close ONLY, since each scenario is slightly different.

Here is an unorthodox method for a Dog Clutch drive, if you care to try it.
You can either begin with the suggested OEM dimension, or toss it out the window and begin from scratch.... your call:

With the drive fully down (to counter gravity against the sliding sleeve), have a helper swing the propeller back and forth quickly, and in an even pattern and rhythm.

You will be at the engine with the lower shift cable disconnected at the linkage arm.
As you bring the cable towards a FWD gear engagement, note where you just begin to hear the "ratcheting" sound as the sliding sleeve contacts the FWD gear Dog Teeth.
Note where the cable is in it's travel.

Now move the cable towards a REV gear engagement. The helper will still be swinging the prop back/forth.
Again, note where you just begin to hear the sliding sleeve contact the FWD gear Dog Teeth.
Note once again where the cable is in it's travel.

When you divide this travel equally, you have located theoretical Neutral regarding where the sliding sleeve is in relationship to the two driven gears.

Now connect your lower shift cable up to the rest of the linkage so that this "Neutral" travel adjustment is maintained.

You may find that the new measurement is slightly different from that of the OEM (or Stuart Hastings dimension for the OMC Cobra drives).
None-the-less, the sliding sleeve will now be at center of travel while in Neutral.
And that is the goal!

Make your SI adjustments after first doing the above.


NOTE: this method works well if all is in good condition.
If you have a bad cable, bent shifting rod, or any other items that are not working correctly, it will prevent most any method from working as it could.

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