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What year is my motor?

O

Outakash

New member
I bought a used boat and it has an Evinrude 48 HP outboard. The model# is E48ESLCUS and the Serial# C 1551355. I can't find a model year on it or just don't know where to look. When I bought it the person I bought it from told me that the stator needed to be cleaned because it was not charging the battery. I have a guy looking at it for me and tested it and it was not putting out voltage. He said that sometime cleaning it works and sometime not. I'm waiting for news from him as to what were the results of cleaning it up. He did tell me if that didn't work I would probably have to get a new stator and they ran about 3-4 hundred. His labor to install it is $30.00 but he doesn't sell parts and told me if I could find a used one it would be more cost effective for me. So, i need to know what year my motor is. My other option is to keep the battery charged every time I go out but running a GPS, Sonar and radio I want thing to work the way they were designed. Thanks for any help anyone can render.
 
The model number of E48ESLCUS indicates that your engine is a long shaft 1987 48hp Evinrude.

OMC's code = INTRODUCE . Each letter stands for a number... CU within the model number.

C = 8
U = 7

I'm thinking that your "mechanics" might be somewhat confused. The most usual cause of the alternator not charging is a shorted/blown rectifier. The rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity..... hooking a battery up backwards or hooking a battery charger up backwards will destroy the rectifier. This is a item you can test easily using a ohm meter BUT disconnect the cables from one terminal of the battery before doing so. While you're at it, make sure the battery is hooked up properly as you do not want to destroy a replacement rectifier.

(Small Rectifier Description & Location)
(J. Reeves)

On most 2,3,4,6 cylinder engines, the small rectifier is located on the starboard (right) side of the engine just in front of the engines electrical wiring strip. There are a few older V4 engines that have the wiring strip on the rear portion of the engine and the rectifier would be located just under that terminal strip. The smaller horsepower engines usually have the rectifier located on the starboard side of the powerhead close to the carburetor area.

The rectifier appears to be a round object approximately one inch (1") in diameter and also about one inch (1") high.

The base of it is sort of triangular in appearance and is attached to the engine with two (2) screws/bolts..... usually one screw/bolt is larger than the other. The rectifier, depending on which one your engine uses, will have either:

One Red wire, one Yellow wire, and one Yellow/Gray wire, or One Red wire, and two Yellow wires.

Note that either of the above rectifiers could have a fourth wire which would be Yellow/Blue

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again.

Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
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Thanks Joe! The boat is a 64 MFG and for fishing the creeks and shallows in and around Chincoteague Bay in VA. The 48 with aluminum prop is perfect as well. The previous owner is in the Coast Guard and he is one of their mechanics and works on all their engines including outboards. He was the one that told me about the Stator. My mechanic took it apart Friday and cleaned it up and put it back together and let me know there still is no output. But now with your information it sounds like it might be the rectifier and not the stator at all. I know this sounds like a novice question but it is coming from a novice so here goes, If the rectifier is not working is there a way to check the stator as well so if both are defective i can order both. By the way, I forgot to mention that the motor was manufactured in Canada - if that makes any difference. And last but not least, do you have the parts i need if I need both?
 
The stator has two yellow wires leading from it. To test, simply disconnect those two wires and then connect a ohm meter between them.... You should get a reading.

Now, with the ohm meter set to high ohms, connect the meter between one of those leads and a ground, then do the same to the other yellow wire. You should not get a reading.

If the above is the results of your ohm meter reading, forget about the stator and test the rectifier as I instructed earlier.

NOTE: Take a close look at the rectifier on your engine to see if it has THREE (3) wires #583408.... or FOUR (4) wires #581778. You do not want to purchase the wrong one.

No, sorry, personally I am sold out of rectifiers and stators. However, I'm sure that they are available via this site.
 
Joe,
Can't thank you enough for the info. I went down to Chincoteague this weekend and performed the test on the Rectifier. I disconnected the wire on the connector block and attached the black meter lead to ground and tested each wire. I have a 4 wires on mine the yellow, yellow/gray, yellow/blue and red. I got readings on all but the red wire. When I reversed the leads and grounded the red meter lead and tried again I got no reading on any wire as you said would happen. I then connected the red meter lead to the red wire and checked the other wires and got no readings then reversed the meter leads and got no readings again. I noticed that the red lead had electrical tape around it and took it off and the wire was barred as if it had rubbed thru. This check tells me the Rectifier is bad and I will order one.
OK the stator check. This was a little more complicated. I didn't remove the fly wheel but on the port side there were 2 sets of wires coming down. One set mirrored the wires from the Rectifier - Yellow, yellow/gray and yellow/blue. I had them disconnected from the block and checked and there was a reading between them all but when connecting either meter lead to ground I got no reading which would indicate that the Stator is working according to your instructions. The caveat is you said there were 2 yellow wires coming from the Stator and mine appears to have 3 and they are thin. The second set of wires coming from under the fly wheel (right next to the set of yellow wires coming from the same place under the fly wheel) where heavier and consisted of 2 brown one black and one white w/black stripe. I performed the same test on the brown wires as you instructed on the yellows just in case these wires were brown instead of yellow and got a reading between them but no reading to ground.
So if I order a Rectifier and install it, if the Stator is still bad (because I couldn't figure out how to check it properly) will I blow the new Rectifier? By the way I found out how they were testing to check the Stator and they started the motor and then disconnected one battery lead and the engine would quit. Not very technical but I guess it is a test no less however with a bad Rectifier I assume the engine would also quit. Sorry for being so wordy but you are the only one who seems to understand what is going on and could provide guidance. The mechanic admitted to me this weekend this is the first stator problem he has had and he is getting his advice from the Johnson/Evinrude dealer where he gets his parts so the $600 the dealer wants for the part explains to me why he is pushing to replace everything under the flywheel.
 
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