Logo

What year is my motor

kimnlj2

New member
hi i am wondering what year my

hi i am wondering what year my 30 hp mariner is? model 30m
689s
031236
thanks
we are thinking of selling this for parts the lower unit is out any ideas on how much we should ask? thanks lawrence
 
"Lawrence, leaving the motor &

"Lawrence, leaving the motor "whole" usually brings in alot less than if you strip it down and sell the individual parts.

As a whole unit, with a busted lower (providing everything else is in decent shape) may sell for 200-300 bucks.

A stripped powerhead may bring 75-100 bucks, ditto a complete ignition system - maybe 30-50 bucks for a decent carb etc etc.

The individual parts may be more attractive to a wider market, since often times a specific part will fit a range of motors - so a guy with a 40 horse may want the stator, but doesn't want the rest which will not fit his/her motor....

Just depends if you want to take the time and trouble to disassemble or get rid of it all at once..."
 
thanks we got offered 200 for

thanks we got offered 200 for it as a whole so i think we might just go with that and not have to mess with it. do you know what year it is if we decided to post it on craigslist to see if we can get a little more? thanks lawrence
 
"Hello,

I'm trying to f


"Hello,

I'm trying to figure out what motor I'm looking at. I was told it's a 99 8 HP two stroke. The serial tag has been removed. The number on the motor welsh plug is 0G790598. Is there anything else that's needed to identify this motor?

Thanks"
 
"Hi,I have a merc500 50hp,don&

"Hi,I have a merc500 50hp,don't know year but seems like 70' need to replace lower unit seal. I tried to disassemble it but after removing water pump can't go anymore.Someone can help me to disassemble the lower unit?"
 
"Shawn, that serial is enough

"Shawn, that serial is enough to determine the year but not the horsepower.

Whether it was a 6/8/9.9 or 15 horse, it will "look" identical and that serial could be for any of them.

In fact, if the hood was missing, the only way to correlate what horsepower it is, is by checking the carb for a casting number - that is one of the few points that differentiate these little motors.

In any event, that is a 99 model. Part of a model run that started in 1986, with one minor design change in 1994 - ultimately discontinued in 2005.

Outstanding motors, regardless of horsepower.

Off the top of my head, a 6 or 8 horse should sell for 800-1000 bucks and the 9.9/15 would easily pick up at least 250 bucks more at this time of year - provided the motor was running and in decent shape...."
 
Hello
I was wondering if som


Hello
I was wondering if someone could let me know what year my engine is
9.8 110
ser 4689862

Thx in advance
 
"Sorry Lawrence, you thread go

"Sorry Lawrence, you thread got jumped all over.

That 30 horse is a 1988 Yamaha built Mariner..."
 
"Tex, that is a 1977 model. Ol

"Tex, that is a 1977 model. Older style carb and powerhead, but has Merc's Thunderbolt 4 ignition - making it quite durable..."
 
"I just purchased a boat with

"I just purchased a boat with a 40hp mercury engine 2cyl with ser. no. 6084491. When I first started it up it started ok but ran fast Like the idle was way too fast. According to the owner it had not been started in several months. He said it had never been in salt water and it did look clean. However I am concerned about how fast it runs during idle. Is this a simple adjustment or something more serious. I am ashamed to say but, right now I don't know where the carb (s) are located. Is there one or two carbs? I do have a manual coming. But right now I need help to steer me in the right direction as to what I should do before putting it in the water. Thank you and I appreciate you. Have a great day."
 
"It will have a WMC-xx cast in

"It will have a WMC-xx cast into it, either on the top or the left hand side near the top (if you are looking at the throat of the carb.

It is kinda small print, but will be there. With the number following the WMC the horsepower can be determined."
 
"Hi I have purchased a Dart hu

"Hi I have purchased a Dart hullboat with a 75 HP Mariner motor, I was wondering if you might know the year of manufactor. The serial is OC246707
Thanks Fred"
 
"Fred, that is a 1990 Mercury

"Fred, that is a 1990 Mercury built Mariner. Nice motor, shared it's powerhead and most of the parts with the super popular 90 horse model..."
 
"Thanks for your speedy respon

"Thanks for your speedy responce, sounds like a good motor. Do you perhaps have any more info on the motor like max RPM etc. I will be purchacing a workshop manual shortly, but if you help me with the basics for now that would be great.
Thanks"
 
"Fred, here's what I can g

"Fred, here's what I can give ya...

Idle rpms - 650-700 (in water under load) - 100 more or so running on "muffs"

WOT range - 4750-5250 rpms (about 5000 rpm would be considered "optimal")

Original factory plugs were NGK BUHW-2 - which are surface gap plugs - a little expensive, but what the motor was desinged to use. Alternately, can run (surface gap) AC-V40 FFK's (from Delco).

If your model has power trim/tilt, you can use regular ATF transmission fluid in place of any fancy (expensive) Marine fluid.

The motor runs fine on regular unleaded (86 or 87 octane with up to 15% ethanol) - so don't blow money on premium gas. BUT always run fuel stablizer in any gas that contains ethanol - can save you a few headaches with gummed carbs or water in the tank....

Also can use any brand TCW3 rated marine two cycle oil - again don't need "premium", "injector" or "synthetic" oil. I have run Walmart's store brand for years without issue.

The only negative comment I would have on these motors is the two sensors - oil and temp. They are built super cheap and fail quite regularly - but always figured it was better to have a sensor fail and have an alarm go off, then die silently and let you kill your motor..."
 
"Thanks once again for the ver

"Thanks once again for the very informed responce, I have two last questions for the moment, and that is that there is a rev counter fitted but not connected, found that out this morning when i went to check the revs. I see it has 3 terminels and was wondering if you perhaps know which wires I should use and if I would find them on the accelerator unit? The second query, there is a small plastic pipe pretruding out of the bottom of the engine in the front of the motor just above the fins, it is blocked off. I am a little concerned that its a part of the cooling or something. Thanks again
Fred"
 
The wee plastic pipe above the

The wee plastic pipe above the lower unit is a speedometer tube.It is built into the lower unit. Most of these are not used.Just leave it be.
 
"Fred, the speedometer pick-up

"Fred, the speedometer pick-up is as noted above in the response from Ikia.

Your other question I assume is with regards to the Tach.

There is 3 connectors on the back of the tach. The connectors are Send, Ign, and Ground.

The ground goes to any source of ground under the dash (including the ground on any other gauge). The Ign is where the hot power lead goes - usually piggybacked off the key switch so that it only gets power when you have the key turned "on" - again can piggy back off the hot lead from any other gauge that works when the key is in the "on" position.

The Send (or Sender) is what gets the feed from the motor itself to measure the rpms.

Depending on who manufactured your shifter, the wire colour that feeds the "send" can be one of a couple of colours.

If you have a Mercury shifter (Quicksilver), the wire for this will be Gray.

The gray lead should go all the way back through your wire harness and connect to one of the posts on the terminal block.

The diagram below shows you the wiring for your motor, "O" is the terminal block - the tach (gray) lead goes to pin #5 in the harness.

If yours has never been connected, that is where you can take the feed from - of course assuming you have a standard Merc set-up...

192625.jpg
"
 
Back
Top