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What to check before buying used?

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claytonsdad

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I'm looking to buy a used aluminum fishing rig powered by something in the 25 - 50 hp range. My budget will limit me to something 1995 - 2000. I don't have any special tools such as a compression tester. Is there a way to check an outboard in this age range over to cover the basics? I figure to take it to a mechanic for a good once over if it is local but shopping farther from home makes this much more difficult. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
 
Have the seller start it in a barrel or bucket for you. See if it's pumping water, starts easily, idles fine, etc. Before running it, pull the plug in the LU to see if any water comes out.

Jeff
 
Invest in a compression tester !!---At $40.00 or so it is cheaper ( 1/2 hr at shop rates ) than buying a dud of a motor.
 
Ditto to the advice above. Take a good look at the prop, the skeg, for chips and chunks missing from hitting rocks, is the top cover all scratched up, is paint peeling from the block from an overheat, is there white powdery corrosion from sea water, etc. Appearances can sometimes tell you a lot about condition, and how well it was taken care of. In fact, if you want to really find flaws, bring a female with you.

Watch out for overdue registration, and titling fees if the boat or trailer have old stickers, when it comes to paying for transfer of ownership, some buyers get a big surprise from the bargain they just brought home.

Look at several boats & motors, don't settle on the first deal you find. In this economy, a lot of people are selling their toys, and there are some nice items popping up for fractions of their original price.
 
Thanks for the advice. I think I'll invest in a compression tester. Your point is well made. Are the ones you would find at auto parts stores okay for what I would need it for or should I find one specifically for marine use?

I can't afford to take my female with me. The last time I did, I went in to buy an aluminum rig with a 60 hp Mercury engine and wound up with a fully loaded Ranger with a 175 Mariner. She took one look at the price differential between the two and said this just doesn't make sense. We could do so much with this bigger boat..... On second thought, maybe I will take her! :):)
 
Auto parts store, harbor freight, etc. would be fine, just make sure it has a variety of adapters for the different spark plug sizes.
 
After checking it out put the boat in the water and drive it...nothing better than a sea trial. Check out the trailer; look for dry rotted tires including the spare and remove the bearing caps to see if there is water intrusion in the grease.
 
What has been your experience with the intrusive nature of really looking a unit over by checking compression, lower unit oil, trailer wheel grease, etc? Are most people okay with it or do you often meet resistance?
 
Agree w/Rev Bob. If you do get a look and find poor compression...walk away...no sense wasting time. You have a computer so look it up on NADA to get a "good condition" cost.
 
Absolutely. That brings up another subject. The vast majority of boat/motor combinations in my area and year range are all priced at least 2x what NADA says they're worth when you add the values of boat, motor and trailer together. It seems very odd to me that people would price things this way.
 
Clayton's Dad,

You would be amazed how sellers can adjust an asking price when they see real dollars in your hand. A tall price sometimes means they know buyers will be coming in low, and built in some haggle room.

I like fifties, those are my favorite presidential flash cards, plus they look like twice as much fluffy green stuff. :cool:
 
I've seen several on CL that look like nice units that should be in my price range according to NADA but they're priced much higher. Is it considered acceptable to ask the seller if they would consider an offer in the range of NADA value? I know people tend to get emotional when selling things and decide that their widget is always worth more than anyone else's because it's in better condition, faster, prettier, etc., etc., etc.
 
If you have the NADA value in mind, just make the offer as such, the seller needs to be concerned he does not offend you. You might be the only looker who has made an offer in quite some time. One never knows.
 
I like fifties, those are my favorite presidential flash cards, plus they look like twice as much fluffy green stuff.
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Around here that's called a "Kentucky Roll"...a wad of singles wrapped with a 50 dollar bill. A quick flash of the money shows that you mean to take the boat home when you leave. I always use terms like the following:

"Let's make this sale a win, win transaction; are you willing to negotiate with me?"

"I like your boat but have two more (look at the papers in your hand) to look at today; in fact, (look at your watch) I have to meet the next seller in 20 minutes."

"If you will take $XXX for it I'll buy it now and forget the other boats?"

If he/she balks then hand them your phone number on a piece of paper, smile, thank them and tell them to call you if they change their mind; get in your car quickly. By the way, always take along a friend that is boat savvy.
 
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Many of the units I have found are on CL and are not local. I was thinking about finding a unit I like, looking at the photos as closely as possible, asking the questions regarding storage, use and maintenance, then asking the seller if NADA price is in their acceptable range before driving 2 - 4 hours to look at and inspect the boat. Does this sound reasonable?
 
Remember it's a buyer's market this time of year in the USA. You are in the driver's seat. Just ask about the boat and if they have maintenance records and if the price is negotiable. Have a max. price in mind that you will pay before looking at the vehicle...see it in the daylight. Depending upon the boat's age make sure you sound the floor and transom for rot. Kick the tires and act like you are knowledgeable. I love to quote W.C. Fields: Never give a sucker an even break. Don't be a sucker, be an informed buyer. Do your homework before you go. Take an observer with you...someone that is able to comment on what they see. Use the three boat trick I gave above, It makes a desparate seller accept a lower offer.
 
Nada " book value " means very little in a fresh water area where boats might only be used 3 months of the year.--------------Many older units are found in " like new condition " and trade hands according to condition / warranty offered and not by a book.
 
racerone said:
Nada " book value " means very little in a fresh water area where boats might only be used 3 months of the year.--------------Many older units are found in " like new condition " and trade hands according to condition / warranty offered and not by a book.
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True enough.
 
Joe Reeves has a good write up on inspecting a used motor....i had the write up but lost it when changing computers..maybe he will jump in and post it?
 
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