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What parts should i save

txny13

Regular Contributor
"iam going to new jersey for a

"iam going to new jersey for a whole 164 out of a 75volvo.other than the head that i need what other parts can be saved ?starter? alterater?fuel pump? pistons crank?will these all work for the marine side of use is there any thing ive missed,by the way i got this motor for a steal $50"
 
"Fuel pump: No
Alternator: No


"Fuel pump: No
Alternator: No
Starter: No,

The other stuff, not sure. Fuel system and electrical parts must be approved for marine use, and automotive parts are not.

Have a great day,

Rob."
 
"Strip it down to the long blo

"Strip it down to the long block and take it home. It will work with minimal effort to modify. If you have an early 164 that doesn’t have fuel injectors, the fuel pump will work, but you will loose the ability to prime the carburetors as the automotive pump has no primer handle. It is not as robust as the marine fuel pump but, I have seen it on some engines working just fine for a good long while. The difference between the marine starter and automotive starter is simply that it is sealed better to keep sparks out of the engine area to prevent explosions. I have taken them apart and looked at them side by side and looked at the illustrated parts manual for this engine and didn’t see any difference at all. Take it apart and put some sealant in the gaps of the parting surfaces if you have to, but in my opinion the starter will work just fine. The alternator is totally a different mater. Since it requires ventilation and brushes in the automotive version, you can not easily modify it to work in a marine environment. The marine SEV alternator has no brushes to cause a spark. So I agree, you have to dump the alternator. The accessory brackets, water pump, timing cover, wiring harness, cam shaft (especially if it is fuel injected), engine mounts, the clutch, and main pulley won’t work either. The dynamic damper under the main pulley, the lower flywheel cover, ignition coil with resister, and the flywheel if the car has a clutch, will work just fine. The distributor will work but it is better if it has no vacuum advance for marine applications. There is a minor difference between the size of valve cover vent hole which you could drill out if you wanted to use it. There is also a vent in the side of the block above the fuel pump that has a cover screwed in its place on the marine engine. The freeze plugs in the marine engine are typically stainless steel, while the automotive engine is steel or brass. I could live with the brass, but would never live with the steel. And the water pipe fitting in the rear of the head should be removed and replaced with a threaded plug. The hard part will be for you to pull the engine water pump, timing cover, cam nut, timing gears, and cam and replace them with the marine version parts. The tappets are difficult to manipulate away from the cam while you are swapping out the cam. If you can’t handle this, you will have to pull and replace the head which will cost you a head gasket. Also beware that due to the added load of the sea water pump (which is located next to the engine water pump) which is feed off the cam, the timing gears will need to be the steel version and not the fiberglass version typically present in the automotive engine. Also, if you pulled the fuel injectors in the newer 164 engines, you will need to locate some small freeze plugs and plug the injector holes. No problem!"
 
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