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WHAT ARE WATER RESTRICTORS

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sturgeon_general

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"Since I had no replys to my m

"Since I had no replys to my most recent post,I'll look for answers in a more basic simple manner.Lets start with I have a powerhead of a 1983,35HP,long shaft,manual start,Johnson,model no.#J35RCTS.I suspect has internal water flow(circulation)problems,affecting the water pumps ability to work correctly.What are water restrictors and there function in engine cooling???What does a damaged restrictor needing replacement,look like.What signs do I look for???Would a bad restrictor affect a water pumps ability to pump water??Correct me if I'm leaving any steps or processes to troubleshooting out before I pass judgement on "water restrictors" as my problem.I really don't want to remove cylinder cover,gasket,thermostat after I've already replaced with new parts and engine runs well,but doesn't pump water.I'm very confindent the water pump is good(replaced recently and worked fine).When powerhead was reinstalled water tube was positioned correctly to fit in water tube grommet.Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated ASAP because I'm contemplating emergency surgery sometime this weekend,thanx THE STURGEON GENERAL."
 
"The exact location of the res

"The exact location of the restrictors/deflectors would be somewhat different than what is mentioned below. In your engine (1983 35hp), there would be three (3) deflectors.

Also, should there be a failing head gasket or some flaw with the sealing surfaces pertaining to the gasket, that would allow the combustion to enter the water passages which would result in a stalemate of the water flow.

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Thank you Joe for your in dep

"Thank you Joe for your in depth explanation,it is far more informative than CLYMER'S shop manual.I also visited the link attached and think you are one very active and busy man,strong as a ox and physically fit with sound mind.I have the utmost respect for you and wish you many years of happiness and good fortune.One or two more questions if you don't mind.If the water pump is working where does all the water go if it is not being recirculated through the engine??And finally there is no way to tell if the deflectors(restrictors)are bad without tearing upart the cylinder assembly?Thank you again THE STURGEON GENERAL."
 
"As stated above, if a head ga

"As stated above, if a head gasket is leaking the combustion (exhaust) into the water passageways via a faulty head gasket of related sealing area, the water coming upwards would engage the exhaust pressure...... and that's as far as it would go. It would just sit there and cook away.

The only way to know for sure if the gasket and water deflectors are okay is to remove the cylinder head. There are no short cuts.

I would also drop the lower unit and dismantle the water pump assembly to double check everything in that area. Note that the water pump plate should be sealed to the lower unit casing, and the impeller housing should be sealed to the plate in order to eliminate any possibility of having the pump draw air.

Put yourself in the role of a technician who has just received your engine. He would not assume that the water pump or the gasket or the water deflectors were perfect just because you said so or thought so. Something is obviously wrong and these are the places to inspect first.

Oh, and as for your opinion of myself where you state "you are one very active and busy man,strong as a ox and physically fit with sound mind." Well, one out of four isn't bad "busy" (grin).

(Gasket Sealers)
(Usually available at any reliable automotive parts type store)
(J. Reeves)

Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets, including head gaskets, which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.

All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap). This also pertains to some water pump installations that use a gasket between the plate and the lower unit housing.

Marprox Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive or Boat Armor Sealer 1000 (same substance) should be used on any metal to metal or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings).

DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.

The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absense of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!

I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.
"
 
"here may be a simple question

"here may be a simple question about cooling ,
just did rebuild on 87 evinrude 90 .just got it fired up the other day , problem is one head seems to be getting hotter than the other one.
water is pumping through cylinders/heads.
i do not see any coming out of the two smaller holes on housing when thermos open. suspected
faulty therms and removed . still nothing.
could power head / housing gasket block waterflow from exiting at this point.
also water coming from little squirt line is cold"
 
Johnson 9hp ( commercial&#

Johnson 9hp ( commercial) 1980.
Please what is the quantity of cooling water I can expect from this newly purchased engine.
The water on starting was a dribble and over many starts it has improved to a fine spray from the exhaust with steam.The after tell tales also dribble water. .
The engine is hot but does not seem to be overheating.
regards
Anthony
 
"Charlie & Anthony..... Go

"Charlie & Anthony..... Go back to the previous page and click on the "Start New Discussion" hyperlink that exists in the "Blue Border".

This will allow you to enter your question/post under your own title heading which will then appear at the top of the list.

As it now stands, your post is buried under another member's (James) post."
 
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