RicardoMarine
Gold Medal Contributor
"Again, there just is not enou
"Again, there just is not enough info here for us to accurately diagnose via the forum, IMO.
When building an engine destine for a Closed System, we do not need the marine head gasket set. This is info that we do not have!
Do you know which head gasket set was used?
That being said...... there has been a suggestion to remove the Closed Cooling system.
I'd definitely not do this and definitely not convert to an Open System with the intent of going back to the closed system.
You are in salt water!
If an automotive head set has been used, there will be little chance at reversing the salt water effect on this gasket!
That is only one reason for not removing this system.
I'd also never recommend removing a thermostat!
Again, IMO here.
You also have an array of incorrect hoses on this engine. I'm not suggesting that this is part of a problem at this point, but I'd sure want to get rid of those corrugated hoses and reduce the amount of internal resistance.
Also, the H/E is non-conventional for this engine (at least not for a US 165 Mercruiser)...... which may explain these hoses. You may need to get creative with some automotive hoses.
None for the Closed Cooling system side will need to be suction capable..... but must be heat/pressure capable.
A good automotive parts supplier may have some that can be made to work.
At the risk of redundancy, I'd again suggest the P of E for you.
Very carefully and methodically go down your list and either eliminate or find the problem.
For example only:
The red button circuit breaker has been suggested. If this breaker were to loose continuity, your helm power would also be cut.
Is this the case?
(these must be manually re-set and do not normally re-set themselves)
Has anyone suggested the S/A?
This would be the "shift assist" that momentarily causes the ignition to falter in order to stumble engine RPM for a shift back into Neutral!
This is part of your shift cable linkage system at the engine. It can be a sensitive adjustment!
I fail to see this as being "Heat" related, but this too can/should become part of your P of E....... IMO.
Are you setting your mechanical ignition points via "gap" or "dwell"? Gap is an Estimate ONLY of proper "Dwell". I'd suggest setting these up using a dwell meter only! (see your OEM spces for this)
Again, this is part of your P of E.
Are you using the correct ignition coil?
I.E., Full 12 volt supply? Resisted supply? Internally resisted coil? Externally resisted coil?
Again, part of your P of E.
I appears that you have gone through your fuel system.
Anti-siphon valve, filter, hoses, filter at carburetor fuel inlet connection (if so equipped), fuel pump, etc.
BTW, any RACOR filter (or RACOR style filter) can not have the plastic bowl on it for a gasoline I/B.
These are for Diesel engines and/or gasoline O/B's only and must not be mounted in a gasoline engine bay! This can render you a citation from your Australian Sea Patrol.
Robert makes a good point re; the choke if yours is similar! Brian then explains how to check this!
Add this to your list!
I'd not concern myself with your "Coolant" supply and return ports that have been capped off. These are for supply/return for a cabin heater and/or WH (as mentioned). No need to join them or do anything but leave them as they are. They are very likely NOT part of your problem! IMO.
I too would give some strong consideration for exhaust/intake manifold pressure testing.
And I'd also want to examine the water ports of both the manifold and riser at the "Manifold-to-Riser" connection. These may not be related, but are sure good things to do as routine preventative maintenance items.
You'll find it! Just hang in there. And yes....... hopefully with any luck, it will be a $5 fix!"
"Again, there just is not enough info here for us to accurately diagnose via the forum, IMO.
When building an engine destine for a Closed System, we do not need the marine head gasket set. This is info that we do not have!
Do you know which head gasket set was used?
That being said...... there has been a suggestion to remove the Closed Cooling system.
I'd definitely not do this and definitely not convert to an Open System with the intent of going back to the closed system.
You are in salt water!
If an automotive head set has been used, there will be little chance at reversing the salt water effect on this gasket!
That is only one reason for not removing this system.
I'd also never recommend removing a thermostat!
Again, IMO here.
You also have an array of incorrect hoses on this engine. I'm not suggesting that this is part of a problem at this point, but I'd sure want to get rid of those corrugated hoses and reduce the amount of internal resistance.
Also, the H/E is non-conventional for this engine (at least not for a US 165 Mercruiser)...... which may explain these hoses. You may need to get creative with some automotive hoses.
None for the Closed Cooling system side will need to be suction capable..... but must be heat/pressure capable.
A good automotive parts supplier may have some that can be made to work.
At the risk of redundancy, I'd again suggest the P of E for you.
Very carefully and methodically go down your list and either eliminate or find the problem.
For example only:
The red button circuit breaker has been suggested. If this breaker were to loose continuity, your helm power would also be cut.
Is this the case?
(these must be manually re-set and do not normally re-set themselves)
Has anyone suggested the S/A?
This would be the "shift assist" that momentarily causes the ignition to falter in order to stumble engine RPM for a shift back into Neutral!
This is part of your shift cable linkage system at the engine. It can be a sensitive adjustment!
I fail to see this as being "Heat" related, but this too can/should become part of your P of E....... IMO.
Are you setting your mechanical ignition points via "gap" or "dwell"? Gap is an Estimate ONLY of proper "Dwell". I'd suggest setting these up using a dwell meter only! (see your OEM spces for this)
Again, this is part of your P of E.
Are you using the correct ignition coil?
I.E., Full 12 volt supply? Resisted supply? Internally resisted coil? Externally resisted coil?
Again, part of your P of E.
I appears that you have gone through your fuel system.
Anti-siphon valve, filter, hoses, filter at carburetor fuel inlet connection (if so equipped), fuel pump, etc.
BTW, any RACOR filter (or RACOR style filter) can not have the plastic bowl on it for a gasoline I/B.
These are for Diesel engines and/or gasoline O/B's only and must not be mounted in a gasoline engine bay! This can render you a citation from your Australian Sea Patrol.
Robert makes a good point re; the choke if yours is similar! Brian then explains how to check this!
Add this to your list!
I'd not concern myself with your "Coolant" supply and return ports that have been capped off. These are for supply/return for a cabin heater and/or WH (as mentioned). No need to join them or do anything but leave them as they are. They are very likely NOT part of your problem! IMO.
I too would give some strong consideration for exhaust/intake manifold pressure testing.
And I'd also want to examine the water ports of both the manifold and riser at the "Manifold-to-Riser" connection. These may not be related, but are sure good things to do as routine preventative maintenance items.
You'll find it! Just hang in there. And yes....... hopefully with any luck, it will be a $5 fix!"
