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Weekend Observations

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chris_in_phoenix

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"Not sure where I'm going

"Not sure where I'm going with this, so that's where the thread title comes from.

Observation #1 - When I shifted into reverse, the leg flew up about 40% of the time. Seems I need an adjustment, since I didn't knowingly hit anything. Can this "slamming up" casue any long term damage?

#2 It seems that there is a lot of play in the shifter between idle (neutral) and when the boat actually starts to "power" if that makes sense. Cable Adjustment?

#3 At or near WOT I am running about 25-28 mph at 3,000 rpm. I have a 15x19 prop on. Should I be getting more out of it? Or is it possible that I am out of shifter travel, before I am out of cable due to the amount of play I mentioned above.

#4 When shifting from forward to reverse or vice versa I feel a "wham" as it goes from one to the other. I believe it is even when the leg stays down and is latched. Any ideas?

That's the weekend update, and those are the thing I'm going to be scratching my head about until next Friday night. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!"
 
"1) Search the forum for t

"1) Search the forum for the words <font color=""ff0000"">reverse pawl</font>. Then, download this online manual and look at page 127 (129):

http://www.mybayliner.co.uk/boatmad/280285290.pdf

2) Possibly. You may wlso want to check that the cable sleeve is properly clamped to the outdrive (parts 32 & 33 on link):
http://www.volvopentastore.com/INTERMEDIATE_HOUSING_AQ_DRIVE_UNIT_280/dm/cart_id .497973580--category_id.333152--list_time.1216688963--session_id.069060138--stor e_id.366--view_id.327388

3) Your WOT RPM are too low, they should be 4000-4400. You may want to check the control cable before checking into the propeller size.

4) Your idle RPM may be too high. They should be around 650."
 
"El,

Thanks!

I have actu

"El,

Thanks!

I have actually replaced the pawls once, so I think it's jut an adjustment thing.

I will definitely check that sleeve.

I feared I was way under in top RPM. I assume you're talking about the same cable with the sleeve? I think it might be my P.O.S. Shifter which I started another thread about.

You are dead on with the idle rpm. I set it at 800 which is what the info on the flame arrestor said to set the timing at. I will lower it to 650."
 
"El,

With regard to the cab

"El,

With regard to the cable sleeve being clamped to the outdrive...

#1 When I switched from LH to RH prop, should I have switched which side the cable enters from, or does this matter/is this possible?

#2 Should the cable run over or under the water intake hose. Or does that matter?

Thanks in Advance!!!"
 
"To clarify one point...re: #2

"To clarify one point...re: #2 in your original post..."lot of play".... By design, the first 30 degrees of so of shifter travel does the "shifting", after that, the throttle part happens. Soooo, when shifting out of neutral, no boat movement happens and no engine RPM change happens for the first 30 degrees or so of shifter travel. That's how its supposed to work.

RE: the "whams..." when you are moving forward and shift into neutral, sometimes the drive will come up a bit. If you shift into Reverse quickly, the prop torque will drive the lower unit against the latching pin..."wham!"

RE: max RPMs and shifter travel... With engine off, remove flame arrestor and move the throttle fully forward. The throttle plate in the carb should be straight up and down."
 
"Re: max RPMS...as Robert said

"Re: max RPMS...as Robert said, make sure that the throttle plate in the carb is straight up and down when the throttle is fully forward. If not, check to be sure that the linkage that translates throttle movement into movement of the carb's throttle plate is working properly. I had a situation on my AQ130C when I could not get good RPMs and found out that a weld had broken on the carb linkage that the throttle cable attaches to and so there was slippage and thus the throttle plate was not being activated and fully opened like it should. I re-welded it and instantly had full RPMs again."
 
"Chris,

Another comment to

"Chris,

Another comment to add to the others--concerning the "wham" when you shift forward to reverse, etc.. After you get the idle slowed down to where it should be--and it's still not smooth--you might want to check the weight of oil you have in your outdrive.

I was just talking to a guy a few days ago who had a VP and said he had 90 wt in it before he knew better. It would clunk and shift hard. When he went to the recommended 30 wt it smoothed out. I just learned what weight oil to use about 2 weeks ago.

Add checking the oil to your "TO DO" list the other guys gave you. You'll soon get it all worked and running smooth."
 
"Thanks guys.

After looking

"Thanks guys.

After looking at everything this week. Everything checks out. I did up the idle a little bit to 800rpm before I noticed the "wham". I'm sure it will be better when I re-set to 650.

I have 30w in the drive. I changed the fluid a couple of years ago, which sounds bad, but I have only been out mayble less than 10 times in that last 2 years. Oil level, color, feel, smell, etc. is all perfect.

Thanks for the tips!!!"
 
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