Jerry, the old seal must be carefully carved out of the bore. We actually distort it and fold it as to remove it. There's no other option that I know of.
The new seal should not be all that tight in the bore. Make sure that the bore is perfectly cleaned out and that there is no ridge at/near the opening.
You do not necessarily need the OEM seal installation tool.
Any shaft or bushing type affair with the same OD will work just fine (the tool does not enter the bore ID).
It must have a shoulder that is eased of any sharp edges, and must be thick enough to catch the entire seal lip.
You can use a large bench vice and take advantage of the parellel jaws.
Again, note that this seal is "Directional".
It's not easy to see this, so look at the instructions and look closely at the seal.
Install the seal with Perfect Seal or equivilant.
It will both lubricate and seal the surfaces while installing it.
Edit:
Back to the detent pin "spring pin" (aka roll pin) for a moment.
If this little spring pin bore is parallel to the eccentric piston, it is pushed to the bottom of the bore for disassembly.
(if this is the perpendicular style..... the disregard this)
We then spray something like carburetor cleaner into the bore to dilute the gear oil.
Then we gently tap the eccentric piston to shake the spring pin out of the bore.
Reason for mentioning this:
Some kits will include a new spring pin.
If the old pin has not been removed from the pin bore (oil tends to hold in there), there is no longer any space for the next pin to be pushed into during the next disassembly.
Now we're stuck with an eccentric piston that can't be removed without sacrificing it.
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