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Water in Oil

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cchinny

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Here is the story. Bought a boat last year before winter but never ran it. For the winter I pulled the 4 drain plugs and drained the block. The next weekend I went to run antifreeze through and water was frozen in the impeller so I couldn't winterize it. This past weekend, The boat had a hard time turning over but eventually did. I accidently had the hose hooked up the wrong/output port of the water pump. When I checked the oil it was 1/2 way up the dipstick (way too high) it was clean though. I ran it slightly above idle (realized that I hooked the hose up to the wrong part of the impeller and then switched it back to the intake and then had water coming out the exhaust. The oil now when I checked itwas milky. I drained the oil (10 qts). What do I do now to preserve the engine? Can I run it with new oil briefly without water going through the block? Is the block cracked, head gaskets or exhaust manifolds? How do you differentiate between the three? Is it possible that I pushed water back into the engine by having the hose hooked up to the outlet instead of the intake for the water pump? I hope that is the case but how do I tell that? Any help appreciated. I live in NH so My season is pretty short.
 
I think that we need more information from you.

How did you drain the engine block? Were the drain ports probed?
Did your area reach freezing temperatures prior to the engine being completely protected?

cchinny said:
Here is the story. Bought a boat last year before winter but never ran it. For the winter I pulled the 4 drain plugs and drained the block. The next weekend I went to run antifreeze through
Click to expand...
I am not sure what you meant by this.... but if by chance you planned to use one of the winterizing kits, perhaps read this.
It just may save your next engine.


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I removed the two manifold plugs and the two engine block plugs probed them and drained the water. I went to run antifreeze through the following weekend and there was water in my impeller frozen so I just left it for the winter with the plugs out. How do I diagnose what is bad and how do I run clean oil through before it rusts? Is there a way for water to get from the impeller to the engine oil?
 
I changed the oil, pulled the plugs. There was about a tsp worth of water in one of the rear plugs when I pulled it. That was it. I changed the oil with 5w30 and seafoam, ran the engine with earmuffs (I had previously run the engine with hose hooked up to the impeller) and so far no water in the oil that I can see. What does this mean?

On a side note, one riser was warmer than the other. What could that mean?
 
cchinny said:
I changed the oil, pulled the plugs. There was about a tsp worth of water in one of the rear plugs when I pulled it. That was it. I changed the oil with 5w30 and seafoam, ran the engine with earmuffs (I had previously run the engine with hose hooked up to the impeller) and so far no water in the oil that I can see.
1..... What does this mean?

On a side note, one riser was warmer than the other.
2..... What could that mean?
Click to expand...

1... if the oil is now clear and clean, you should be OK.

2... do you mean "elbow" or "riser/spacer"?
Either way, it likely means that somewhere in the "spent" seawater path, it is not being divided/delivered equally, or there is a restriction somewhere.

Pull the elbows and examin the seawater transfer ports. If these are closed down by rust scale, the seawater becomes restricted while trying to make it's way into and out with the exhaust gasses.

And BTW..... if you do find that one side is restricted (the warmer side), DO NOT restrict the oposite side in hopes of creating more flow to the side that is running warm.
Instead.... find the restriction, and clear it!




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