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Water Cavity - 1989 Johnson 110HP 2T

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Byte

Regular Contributor
I blew my Rectifier because I crossed leads on my battery.

I now have a new rectifier ready to be inserted.

I have removed the flywheel and the original rectifier - which lies on top of the water cavity.

However, upon removing the rectifier, i snapped one of it's mounting bolts because it was locked in solid due to salt build up.

I also broke it's female thread (in block itself - shown in photo) in the process of trying to remove the rectifier because of this snapped bolt.

The snapped bolt is not an issue as I can easily replace it.

However, how should I approach this broken thread (in block), before i re-install the new unit (see attached picture below - first thread on right hand side?



I have also spent considerable time flushing hot water down this cavity and repeatedly cleaning/scrapping/etc... It does look alot better since that photo as taken btw.

How should I best minimise the amount of salt/calcination build up within this water cavity and the system - now that the rectifier is off and have easier access to the water cooling system ?

I notice the 2 holes at the bottom of this cavity were blocked somewhat with gunk and wonder if this blockage would help contribute to overheating??

Also, I have just discovered a possible hole that MAY NOT supposed to be there. It is seen at the top of the cavity in the middle - as shown in this picture below.



Should I be concerned about this hole? If so, what do I need to do about it?


Here are some more pictures of inside the water cavity prior to the clean up...






Cameron
 
Last edited:
cant really see what youre talking about but if you need new threads on the block its pretty easy. get yourself a "helicoil" kit the same size as the good bolt. u drill the hole a little larger (the kit will tell you what size) then you re-thread it and insert a stainless coil. theres your new threads. it surprisingly easy
 
thanks Dawgs.

here is some current information...

What is on the other side of that hole?

Is it bad that crud and water has passed into the other side of this hole?

I will try the long cure araldite for this hole.

Attached are more clearer pictures of the damage....

I guess I am lucky the bolt did not snap in the thread in the block.

As seen in picture, I still have some thread left remaining in the block to enable some degree of fastening, and wonder if it is worthwhile taking the risk of glueing on that broken bit of thread back into the block - for the risk of it coming off and blocking the water cooling system??

Also, would the gunk that was built up in this cavity have contributed to possible overheating in the past?

What chemical/fluid should I pour down this cavity to help flush the system out even more - before I re-install the new rectifier?











Byte
 
what type of welding needs to be used to repair this johnson 1989 110HP 2T block (weld back on a broken thread for a bolt hole in the water cavity)?

Byte
 
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