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VP 270 Outdrive

J

jcampbell

Regular Contributor
"Hi guys,

I have a VP 270 o

"Hi guys,

I have a VP 270 out drive i need to do a bellows change on it and probably a pds bearing and u joints engine is approaching 500hrs (some of which is me leaving the key on) any tips or tricks instructions etc..


Also when i was inspecting the bellows i noticed this, on the port side the foot that pushes the drive up and down.

376976.jpg


I know it will need a new transom shield but since i only boat maybe 40hrs in a season and i trailer is there a temp fix i have some marine rated caulking. What i think happened the PO told me he was in a parking lot and took a speed bump to hard and it slammed the drive down.

I have seen people at boat launches have to manually put the drive cause there trim switch went out, is this something feasable todo. I plan to grease the foot the best i can to prevent it from seizing.

Thanks

Jason"
 
So for my bellows assuming eve

So for my bellows assuming everything goes right:

1. Remove shift cover plate
2. disconnect shift cable
3. Remove bolts in center of helmut lift helmut out of way
4. Loosen clamp on old bellows
5. Remove 2 side bolts on upper unit
6. Remove upper unit (dont lose shims)
7. Change ujoints if need be (probably will)
8. If i can get the tools change PDS bearing.
9. Check and replace if needed the water hose and joint for various sea creatures.

Im sure these aren't in the right order

Do i need bellow adhesive on this and some kind of permatex to remate the upper unit?? Im sure i will need some o-rings Volvo loves o-rings

I cant seem to locate a Volvo OEM u-joint is there an automotive equivalent or is the Sierra brand ok..

Also i was looking at the serive manual for my engine and it shows a place to grease the PDS bearing but the picture is fuzzy and i cant really tell. Says use water resistant grease and put cap on all the way.
 
"Jason, the topics you are ask

"Jason, the topics you are asking about have been discussed many times before, including Sierra and non-OEM numbers for the u-joints. I would look for the old threads myself but I cannot do it right now (maybe tomorrow). Meanwhile, try searching the forum."
 
"I have been searching been re

"I have been searching been reading all day. Dont plan to start the repairs until April, i got a week off. Mainly just getting everything ready including instructions and tips and parts.

I mainly was wondering if people had good luck with the Sierra U-joins or should i try and locate OEM. I have a line for the bellows OEM for around $30ish.

I do appreciate your guys help and reading the old threads help too."
 
"Yes, remove the transmission

"Yes, remove the transmission only for bellows replacement! You are on the right track here. Keep tabs on the shims! Replace all O-rings.

PDS bearings???? You do not mention which engine! Procedure is different for V-8 (two bearings) vs OHC 4 (single bearing).
Aft bearing is a 6206 for either engine..... fwd is a 6007 if V-8.
Seals are a TCM or Timken 35X62X7mm.
These are correct unless this is a Holman Moody style extended PDS housing.

Save some money and buy from a major bearing suppllier! Steer clear of Chinese bearings!
Electric Motor grade gets you a high quality bearing. Koyo, SKF, etc.



Bearing crosses for a 270 can be a Spicer brand 5-1306X if no one has changed this to a later shaft. $13 each vs $$$ from Volvo Penta or Sierra. Same or better qualilty and they offer the zerk in the apex of the cross! Separate by 180*.

Add to your list a new water neck fitting and special beaded gasket. Very important, IMO.

As for the broken bore for the lift unit.... loosen the two mounting bolts. Do Not attempt to wedge underneath the unit's flange in order to remove it.
Rather take a piece of wood, place it between the lift unit pressure plate and the arm of the main suspension fork.
Push down on the drive.
If no excessive corrosion, the lift unit will move upwards from it's bore and will come out!

Now, since repairing this requires transom shield removal, you could cheat by sealing the O-ring (as seen in the photo) and reassemble!
The actual shaft seal appears to be un-disturbed. It is the outer seal that has been breached via the broken shield bore.
Since you trailer, it may not be an issue!
It's certainly worth a try.

Remember that this Lift Out unit is not a drive trim... and is not to be powered up against.... Lift Out only! That may be what broke this in the first place. "
 
"Could a sworn i had my engine

"Could a sworn i had my engine listed guess not. Its a Volvo penta AQ125A engine, runs like a champ hits 35mph out on lakes no problem which is plenty fast for me.

The drive lifts up and down just fine, i never noticed it untill i went to check out the bellows.

Usually i wont start an engine until the drive is all the way down. And i stop the engine before i lift the drive up.

When i parked the boat last season i was able to drop the drive down. I will try your method to grease and clean it. Should i put some of that marine caulking around that oring area.

Thanks for the part number on the u-joint. I found 40 bucks somewhere for 2 but i think they were sierra.

Sierra has an intake elbow and gasket for 30 plus ship."
 
"ALSO.... When you drive the b

"ALSO.... When you drive the boat on its trailer DO NOT DEPEND on the lift mechanism to keep the drive up. There is a bracket available that should be installed under the leg when trailering. If you can't get the bracket you might try a 3/8 or 1/2 line from the leg (below the cav plate) to the stern cleats, snugged tightly when trailering."
 
"Thanks for writing

I do ti

"Thanks for writing

I do tie a rope around the drive and tie it off to the cleats. I have been looking for one of those brackets but they seem to be hard to locate. For now i will rope it.

One of the lakes i go is pretty shallow around the launch with big concrete pipes for whatever reason, you either have to paddle out farther or reverse with the drive up a tidge, ideally at that launch u turn your boat around or a real good shove. I do a good shove and paddle..

The launch is designed for up to 16' boats mine is a 20'. I remember taking my cousins boat there after he got it fixed up at the shop and the place put the shift controller in backwards so instead of backing out of the launch it rammed forward. You can still see the paint from the bottom of his boat on one of the concrete pipes"
 
"yeah, that be the item. Looks

"yeah, that be the item. Looks like he sold quite a few of them. If i have any money left over after the repairs i will snag one."
 
"When it comes to remove the h

"When it comes to remove the helmut pin with jack bolts, how is that done. I know u put the bolts in do you keep twisting them in until it pops out or do you put a slide hammer on it and pull it out?? Also could this be changed to the big single bolt or is the 2 jack bolt system better.....

With the 2 holes i guess it makes my drive the 275 drive."
 
"It should come out by either

"It should come out by either twisting or pulling. It should not take a great deal of effort.

Don't even think of going to a single bolt. Yours is an upgrade from the single bolt.

Your drive could be a 275; or it could be a 270 and the upper gear assembly could be from a 275/280/290, or someone just installed a different clamping ring on a 270 because he wanted the larger helmet pin."
 
Thanks EL

I just didnt know

Thanks EL

I just didnt know how it should come out didnt want to tighten the bolts and it was supposed to be slide hammered out or vice versa. Im gonna get the bolts and such soaking in loosener like pb blaster. While the drive looks good better then some i've seen. never know what the inside is gonna show...
 
"huh, i was writing out my sho

"huh, i was writing out my shopping list and i noticed that one of the big orings that volvo wants $2 bucks for it while sierra marine wants 12bucks for a 925259 oring.

Seems all the volvo orings are expensive as sierra

the drain plug/fill cap 7
the smaller o ring for the upper unit 9.89 schematics says u need 2"
 
"[b]Quote; " ......... vol

"Quote; " ......... volvo wants $2 bucks for it while sierra marine wants 12bucks for a 925259 oring.

the drain plug/fill cap 7
the smaller o ring for the upper unit 9.89 schematics says u need 2."

Sierra sometimes includes 5 in a package.

The fill plug is a gasket.. not an O-ring.... but you have a 270, so there is no fill plug on that drive.
For this, the top cover hollow bolt can be used.

FYI, there are a few of these O-rings that can be purchased through NAPA or a hardware store. Only a few though!"
 
"Jason, if your helmet pin is

"Jason, if your helmet pin is the double bolt style, it has either been changed, or like Eduardo says, you have a 275 transmission.
In which case you do have an oil fill plug at 1:00 O'clock position from the eccentric piston (shift mechanism).

OK.... the helmet pin!

Hopefully, yours has two additional holes in it. If so, these are "jack thread" holes.
You need two grade #8 1/4" NC bolts with enough thread length.... Not metric threads!
You need to clean the threads out real well!
Spray cleaner/compressed air... whatever it takes (watch your eyes).
Lube the threads with oil or ????
Install bolts and very evenly screw them in.
These will bottom out against the clamping collar and will jack the pin from the collar.

Wella.... Done!

Be sure to clean and grease the main bolts when re-assembling."
 
"Oh they are 5 packs i ran the

"Oh they are 5 packs i ran the numbers here on this site, i like that idea.

Im not sure according to my manual (if i can find it) there is a flat head bolt you take out and fill it from there with a flexi funnel. I just take the dipstick tube out and put a cap on a quart of oil from a bottle of gear lube and squeeze it down the dipstick hole. After removing the PO gear lube that drive sounded a lot better.

I read no mention of a bellows adhesive so i guess its not needed or is it. The bellows have a "lip" on them..

Sadly my shopping list almost 200 bucks already and i haven't even gotten to the engine yet lol. Ahh boating gotta love it :) and i do, even if its only 40hrs a season"
 
"[b]Do you NOT have an OEM man

"Do you NOT have an OEM manual?
Yes, that was a one half smart a$$ and one half serious response!
biggrin.gif


You really should have an OEM manual for this.

."
 
"re: "on a quart of oil fr

"re: "on a quart of oil from a bottle of gear lube "

If I remember correctly 270 drives take engine oil in the drive, not gear lube."
 
"Yes aparantly i did have the

"Yes aparantly i did have the manuals.
lol.gif


Workshop Manual C 2(0) Aquamatic 270

More or less how to tear it down, it doesnt describe it as well as you guys do. Sorry if im asking too many question, i know im not the only one and i bet it gets frustrating.."
 
""If I remember correctly

""If I remember correctly 270 drives take engine oil in the drive, not gear lube."


It does, take the pointy cap of a bottle of gear lube and put it on a quart of 30wt motor oil. Makes it easier to fill the drive
happy.gif
"
 
"A 270 will use engine oil IF.

"A 270 will use engine oil IF..... I say IF equipped with a single prop lower.
If equipped with a DP lower, it now becomes a GL5 lube."
 
"Does 30mm x 62mm x 16mm soun

"Does 30mm x 62mm x 16mm sound right for the bearing size if needed to be replaced, i found these in a KML branded bearing, says us made but i dunno for sure.

Double sealed bearing Shell Alavania #2 grease rated (–20 °F to +230°F)"
 
"OK, V/P's p/n for that be

"OK, V/P's p/n for that bearings is their own number. However, this is a very standard bearing that can be purchased from a major bearing supplier along with the two seals you will need.


That bearing is likely a 6206 in an open bearing if your flywheel cover is as shown in the schematic (i.e., grease fitting for the PDS)
A bearing supplied by V/P will have this exact #6206 on it!
Steer clear of Chinese made bearings for this one.

If your flywheel cover does not offer the grease port, then use the same bearing, but with the extension # (6206-2RS1 or 6206-2RS) that makes this a "sealed" bearing. (your supplier will know what to do)
Sealed bearing cannot be greased in the future.

Front/rear seals can be brought in as a TCM or Timken 35x62x7mm. (seals may require several days lead time)

Glue the fwd seal in place in the conventional direction.
Pump the cavity full of grease as you spin the shaft and until you see grease come through the open bearing.
At this point ONLY, install the aft seal in a non-conventional direction! (if either seal is to allow grease pressure to escape, you want it to be AFT seal)

Wella..... you are ready to go!

."
 
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