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Volvo Penta DP-D1 bearing question

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96pursuit6.2

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Good evening. My name is Scott and I'm new to your forum. I have a question concerning the bearing on the PDS shaft. I recently pulled the DP-D1 outdrive on my 1996 Pursuit to have it completely gone through prior to the upcoming summer. Since I am just about ready to reinstall the drive I find myself questioning the condition of the PDS bearing although when I pulled the drive there seemed to be plenty of grease packed up there. I have run the engine without the drive as I did a lot of maintenance there as well. I don't hear any weird moaning or noise from the bearing. I have looked on the bellhousing and cannot locate a grease fitting as described in other threads so Im guessing its a sealed bearing but it doesn't make any sense that when I look at the shaft from outside the boat there appears to be a grease cavity up in there? My drive is coupled up to a much newer 6.2 Mercruiser installed by the previous owner a couple years back. Any insight you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long post! Thanks again, Scott
 
Hi Scott welcome to the forum, the later models don't have a grease nipple on the bell housing as they went over to sealed bearings. When we change the bearings we always put some grease in there to stop the shaft rusting and to aid removal next time, also to lube the outer seal so that is what you are probably seeing. If there is no radial play on the shaft and no noise then you should be fine.
 
Thanks guys! I have run it multiple times so far and haven't heard any type of noise or seen any movement in the shaft. I'm pretty sure that I'm good but as always I value the experts opinion. I just wasn't sure if it was a relatively painless thing to change it prior to putting the drive on. That is if it didn't require me to pull the engine! Thanks for the advice so far and look forward to any additional information. Scott
 
If you have the charcoal gray, one piece flywheel cover, and without a grease fitting in it............, then your PDS (primary drive shaft) is a single bearing unit with a pilot nose! (see image)

If so… the bearing will be a 6206-2RS ..... about $14.00
images




It would be silly to not replace it!

F/C shown here minus the PDS installed
 

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I'm with you there. If it's not that big of a job I want to replace it. I crawled up in the boat tonight and verified it's a cast looking flywheel cover and there is not a grease fitting top dead center as described. I will pick up a new bearing but do you have any part numbers for the actual seal? The only other thing I want to ensure is that there is no surprises lurking because the volvo penta 7.4 engine was replaced with a mercruiser 6.2. I didn't do the work so I have never had this area apart. So far,other than some modified tooling it seems pretty cut and dry unless I'm missing something. Thanks for all of the input. You guys are great!
 
96pursuit6.2 said:
I'm with you there. If it's not that big of a job I want to replace it. I crawled up in the boat tonight and verified it's a cast looking flywheel cover and there is not a grease fitting top dead center as described. I will pick up a new bearing but do you have any part numbers for the actual seal?
1.... The only other thing I want to ensure is that there is no surprises lurking because the volvo penta 7.4 engine was replaced with a mercruiser 6.2. I didn't do the work so I have never had this area apart.

2... So far,other than some modified tooling it seems pretty cut and dry unless I'm missing something.
Click to expand...


1.... I'm going to caution you and offer a suggestion here.

Mercruiser has never before used the Volvo Penta AQ series style Main Suspension Fork and Pivot Tube geometry, nor the Borg Warner drive coupler arrangement for an I/O....... so the Merc guys are typically unfamiliar with the AQ series components.

Your year model Volvo Penta went to a single bearing PDS with a pilot nose and a pilot nose crankshaft bushing. (prior year model Volvo Pentas used a double bearing PDS for the GM V-8's)

If the Merc 377 cu in engine (6.2L) did not receive a pilot nose bushing...... you had better pull the engine and install one because this style PDS requires the centering that this crankshaft bushing creates.

Suggestion in lieu of pulling the engine:
With your transmission only removed, and with your PDS removed.... take a good quality "bore scope" and go through the flywheel cover and into the Borg Warner coupler spines, and take a peek for a bushing.

2... the only special tool that you will need will be a long needle nose plyers with the tips modified to grab the snap ring eyelets while removing them from the F/C.
images




As for the seal..... in a TCM or Timken, it will be a 35x62x7mm for the AFT seal.
You probably won't be able to access for FWD seal.... but it's not a deal breaker since the 6206-2RS is a sealed bearing.




If up for a challenge.... you can turn your PDS bearing into a serviceable unit similar to the double bearing PDS.
I drew this up for another member a while back... but I've not yet done this to one.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6604&d=1366202269


.
 
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This is exactly what I was concerned about.... The drive is not on so it will be easy to get at the seal and bearing for a peak. I took a look at the paperwork that was provided from the swap and only found that the mercruiser was adapted to the drive. No clue what that means or what "special" parts were used. It has been like this since 2007 with no issues so I'm hoping everything that's supposed to be in there is in there. I just don't want to risk something falling out and having to pull the engine now. Wish I had given this more thought back in the winter where pulling the motor was a possibility.
 
Like said.... use a bore scope and take a peek inside.
If it is minus the pilot nose bushing..... you've been very fortunate that no damage has occured.


While the B/W drive coupler female splines will center the B/W PDS male splines........ the pilot nose and pilot bushing are what the engineers actually designed for centering.
(see attached image)


As for the drive...... I don't know of any of us who will pull/remove an entire AQ series drive.
I remove the transmission first...... then the lower unit (if need be)...... then if the Intermediate housing must be removed, I'll carefully pull the suspension fork hinge pins, etc.
When going back together..... the transmission is installed last.
Much easier this way, IMO!!!!


.
 

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Thanks for the info Rick. If it ever stops raining around here I will pull the seal and retainers and start the process. I need to find a way to get the seal out since it's in the output bore. Mine won't hook that deep. As for removing the whole drive I didn't really have a choice. I wanted the complete drive rebuilt and the mechanic is quite some distance from me. I disconnected the exhaust boot with it tilted up then lowered it all the way down. Then I hooked a chainfall and rigging to the entire drive, disconnected the steering, pulled the pins and walked it away from the boat after loosening the drive boot. Hopefully it goes back as easy as it came off because I got it back as a complete unit. Once again thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes
 
Scott.... this is an AQ series DP-D1, main suspension fork and pivot tube geometry drive.... correct???
Upper transmission..... Intermediate housing.... and lower gear unit... correct????
Not a Gimbal System drive..... correct????
(see image)

Trust me.... I've been doing this for years.
I always remove the transmission first.
Then if need be, now I disconnect the water neck fitting hose, the shift cable, exhaust bellows, and the lower unit (optional).
Then I remove the suspension fork hinge pins, and gently lower the Intermediate housing away.

I go back together in the reverse order.

Screw an S-12 type sheet metal screw into the 35x62x7mm seal body.
Now pull outwards on the screw head.
The seal will come out.
Now the 2 large snap rings are visible.
Both must come out in order for the PDS and 6206 bearing to be removed.
Place a piece of copper or brass shim stock over the splines. Copper/Brass will protect and also add grip.
Grab onto the splined area with a very large Vise-Grip plyers, and pull in the AFT direction.
 

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Rick... That is the drive. Definitely is a dp-d1 drive. Guessing it might not be as easy as I imagined going on. I trust your expertise. I got the seal out and both the retainers so now it's me against the shaft. One problem that I did notice is the fact my bearing is not sealed but open?? I sure as he'll don't see a way to externally grease it but the whole cavity was full of grease. It was a pure grease wall just behind the seal. I know I have looked twice for a fitting but I'm heading back up now just to verify
 
That's because some knucklehead was in there when he should not have been....... I see this all too often! :mad: :mad: :mad:
Unless you do what I suggested earlier....... http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...4&d=1366202269 .... there's no way to add grease to an open bearing... period!
You'll want the 6206-2RS sealed bearing on your PDS..... and you'll want to change it routinely..... just as we would any routine replacement item.


Also.... don't fret over the larger seals.... they are not water seals.
If we have water in this area..... we have much larger problems!!!!!

Store your drive fully down.... and aiming straight forward.
This will help extend the life of the bellows.





.
 
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Gotta love knuckleheads.... They always keep honest guys gainfully employed! Starting to rain again but I was able to get back to the engine again. The F/C is definitely grey without a grease fitting. I knew it was but it never hurts to look again especially when I see an open bearing! I tried putting some vice grips on the shaft but don't have enough pull to get her out. Hopefully it will be more cooperative tomorrow or I'm going to have to resort to something else! I had read where some have used a slide hammer where the vice grip bolt is but to me it would be an angled blow because it's not in line with the shaft. You have any advice for that situation? I figured when the seal and retainers came out that the shaft would be a pain!
 
Very carefully go inside of the flywheel cover PDS bore with a small propane torch.
Heat the F/C aluminum up just enough to create a bit of expansion.
(Propane heat will not harm the PDS)
Usually the PDS and bearing will become free.

Use extreme caution with an open flame... (there... that's my disclaimer!)


.
 
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So far I'm not having much luck here. I tried the heat but wasn't sure long to heat it but it was definitely warm. I even did it on the outside snout of the housing with no luck. Tried hitting back forward and wrapping it in shim and I can get a good pull by hand but it hasn't moved .001" as far as I can see. Tried the slide hammer gimmick but the pull is to the side and it pops off every time. Maybe I'm not heating it long enough? Any other suggestions other than me patient? Lol
 
Finally got it out and all is good. A little more heat and a makeshift puller she came right out. Gathering the parts in the morning and hopefully in the water in the next few days. Thanks Rick!!
 
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