Thumbs up 2002-04 Are The VP "Red" Engines
The 2002-04 are the Volvo Penta Red Engines (Range from 2000-2011). The date range of 2002-2004 is more than likely a GXi.
You can look up the overpriced VP Parts at volvopentastore.com
I swapped a short block in my 2003 VP GXi in 2015.
I tried to cross-reference over to the part manufacturer and saved probably a few thousand on parts Here are some of the parts some have mentioned, or that might be good references to try later.
> I like to use the AC Delco Distributor cap and rotor, since that is typically the GM parts OEM. Same stuff as what is on a 1999-2000 Tahoe/Suburban/etc.. The entire distributor, timing sensor, coil, coil module, etc. for the GM 1999-2000 GM 5.7L Vortecs are identical to the VP 5.7 GXi.
> The idle air control and throttle position sensors are also identical to the GM 5.7L Vortecs from 1999-2000.
> Plug wires are a different length than the Suburban/Tahoe/etc. GM 5.7L's, since they have to drop below the exhaust manifolds as opposed to above them like on the trucks/SUV's. I have typically bit the bullet and bought the VP plug wires, but am going to try the NAPA plug wires they offer for the Volvo Penta GXi 2003 with a DP-S outdrive. NAPA Part #: BEL 700725.
> MAP sensor is a Volvo Penta 3859020. Also know as a Bosch 261 230 075 (Same as Bosch 261 230 030 and some other newer Bosch variants), which is just an older version of a Bosch 1 Bar (14.7 psi) pressure sensor with a temp sensor. Same as what is in a 2012- Fiat 500 and some other odd-ball cars only made in Europe. The Volvo Penta part is over $200. A 3859020 MAP sensor is also available on Amazon for $40-$50. You can also try the Fiat 500, but Amazon ships the part FREE'n'Fast!. Be forewarned that Bosch's 1, 2 , 3 , and 4 Bar (approx. 15, 30, 45, & 60 psi) variants of this sensor all look identical. I tried a 3 Bar MAP sensor from Summit Racing in 2015 just experimenting, which would cause the boat to only run at idle.
> The fuel pressure regulator is a 4 bar (approx 60 psi) plug that is held in the fuel rail with a clip and has a little pressure hose that goes into the intake. This is the same regulator that goes on a 2003 Cadillac CTS 3.2L or a 2003 Volkswagon Passat 1.8L. Off the top of my head, I think the OEM for this little regulator is Bosch. The Volvo parts is $200+, but you can pick up the same part for around $50 at an auto parts store.
> I have tried the VP genuine fuel pump (range online from $800-$1200) and the Chinese aftermarket on Amazon ($160). Both work.I just hate to buy the aftermarket stuff from China.... But, saving $600 will help me to get over it.
A high idle at 850 rpm can also be due to the adjustment on your throttle body linkage or the Idle Air Control Valve (sensor is about $40 for the GM 5.7L Vortec equivalent - Go with AC Delco if you can). These may be simple & cheap fixes. Adjusting the timing on a GM 5.7L Vortec is almost futile with just a timing light, since the timing self adjusts. I always just tried to get the distributor gear set correctly and bump the distributor rotation until I had the best idle. Archaic.... yes, but my 2015 engine replacement started up on 2nd turn of the key and has ran great for years. They do make $20 plug in tools for the sensors to bypass the motor's self adjustment to adjust the timing with a timing light. I have also heard of old gurus using paper clips and alligator clip wires to bypass the spark advance/retard self-adjustments, but I don't know enough about the VP wiring to try it.
Changing/ out or soaking the thermostat and temp sensor on the thermostat housing in CLR was also mentioned in these posts. The 1999-2000 GM 5.7L Vortec sensor from AC Delco is surprisingly identical to the VP temp sensor. LOL. Howwever, I always bought the VP thermostats, I just had to make sure I bought the right one for closed loop (freshwater) v.s open-loop (seawater) cooling system. My 2003 VP 5.7L GXi is a seawater system without the closed loop heat exchanger. I almost put in a closed loop system, but was advised not to by motor supplier, since my boat is on a very clean freshwater lake.
I am just "shade tree" mechanic status and cannot go into the code readers like some of the other more seasoned vetrans posting on this blog. I have looked at the Rinda code reader, but apparently would rather be bull headed and just throw hundreds more dollars in parts at my boat shooting from the hip and guessing/troubleshooting...
Good luck
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