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Volvo aq145a won't start. Does it have a condenser?

S

starsnstripes

New member
I checked the coil, changed points, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Still won't start. I have 12+Volts at the ignition switch. I could not cross reference a condenser to the cap, rotor & points that I bought. Just a hash mark. Just thinking that maybe the condenser was a specialty marine type item and the cap rotor & points I obtained at the local auto parts store were the same for automotive & marine. There was a [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]OEM 834560-5 Sierra 18-5348 from the Sierra website
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& the Volvo 841263-7 or without the -7...
I called the marina and they had one in stock. They looked it up by engine and when I took the cap off I couldn't figure out how it would fit inside. The Clymer book we have had a traditional points & condenser under the cap. The condenser supplied has a large mounting tab on the side and a lead with a double male spade connector.
I went to a friends boat. He has an aq151 which is very similar. He was also baffled that there was not one and remembered changing it but then said it must have been another boat. :). Does it have one at all?
Is it mounted outside the cap?
I'm getting spark to the cap but not to the plugs.
I read the 3 page post on compression and timing and will investigate that if after getting spark to the plugs does not resolve the issue.
I did feel the pressure of the #1 spark plug hole push my finger off.
Best Regards.
 
The condenser is installed OUTSIDE of the distributor. Check picture.

boschdistributor3.jpg




If you have points, you must have a condenser (capacitor) installed. If you have electronic ignition (Pertronix) you MUST remove the condenser.
 
Changing the condenser fixed that problem. The new condenser has the same connector but it is made of plastic not rubber. Didn't really lock in place, seemed sloppy. Should I put some caulk on this to hold it in place?

I took a cruise and the coil got super hot and the boat stalled after about 2 hours. I could get it started but was running rough. Changed the coil and ran great was able to make it back to my buoy. The question was raised, Does it require a ballast resistor?

Another new development since the cruise. The idle is too slow, around 500 and should be 900. Can't shift into gear without it stalling unless I shift and then give it gas fast. Carb adjustments don't do much, is the main adjustment in the shifter?
 
1) Up to you, but as far as I remember the condenser is just secured with a screw to the distributor.

2) You need a coil with an internal resistor (3 ohm primary resistance) and no ballast.

3) Adjust the throttle cable, and make sure the cable sleeve is secured to the engine (it may have come loose).
 
Thank you for the quick reply. The loose connector on the condenser I was referring to was the double male spade that pushes through the side wall of the distributor not the condenser itself. The original that I replaced was pliable and pushed through the hole to secure it. The new one is hard plastic. I was more concerned with condensation & corrosion as well as this connector vibrating and causing a spark to ground.
 
i have a question, my boat wont start either and i noticed that inside the cap, there is spark marks on all cylinder conact pints except one. Why is that?
 
This thread is from June, 2010.
Best to begin a new thread, and make sure to title it appropriately.

Quick response to your question.....
A ...... as the timing indexing for spark ignition occurs, the rotor is completing the high energy spark circuit to each individual spark plug wire contact.
B...... the arcing has no choice but to eventually take it's tole on the rotor tip and contacts.

This is why we replace these parts during a tune-up.
 
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