volvo 280 outdrive hot to touch.

[Ralbasi]

Hi

I have a pair off AQ140a Engines with a 280 outdrive. After a reseal and good pressure test, took the boat out. Ran good. Came back and oil had leaked from the outdrive. Came home drained oil (milky) Pressure?vacuum tested #$^& Good. Put thicker oil in it. Took it out, same thing. drained again and tested fine. Refilled and ran for a while in driveway. Outdrive to hot to touch( upper gear box. Took the dipstick out and milky oil was boiling out. It being in neutral, only the upper box was turning I am assuming the problem has to do with the box itself or the shimming. The drive was apart for a very long time and then may have been mixed up.
I am trying to check my shims with out a proper depth micrometer. I am over shimming and checking gap with feeler gauge. This should be an accurate method of measuring the total gap in the bearing house. The book wants 010 mm to be ADDED to this distance for the correct shimming. the box seams to me to be under shimmed.
My question.
I am correct then I am adding clearance for the bearing not loading it up by adding shims?

I was going to over shim this and put it back together and see if it heats up.

The box feels smooth and turns fairly easily by hand.

Any one have ideas on what else to check?


Thanks!

 

[sandkicker]

1) Be careful with heavier oil...90 wt will damage drive. I use 10W-30 . Do not use synthetic or synthetic blend.

2) Pressure/Vac test to be performed with a lube free drive.

3) Volvo drives depend on water flow around NOT thru the drive to cool them. Running "for a while" on a hose won't sufficiently cool the drive. Water flow on a Volvo drive actually bypassed the parts of the drive that need cooling., i.e. go thru the steering pivot tube.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do not run the engine in neutral for extended periods, the oil slinger is on the propshaft and does not circulate. Does the oil come out clean when you drain it? Are you using the same oil in the engine as the drive?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Use a long screwdriver as a stethescope while running in gear. Just put your ear up to the handle and search around with the tip you can hear the bearings. Have you replaced the verticle shaft keepers they are a preventive maintenance item and should be changed after so many shift cycles. Over shimming the bottom bearing could cause a oil leak but will not effect gearlash under shimming will allow the outer bearing race to spin and change the gearlash.

 

[RicardoMarine]

..............................

Hi
I have a pair off AQ140a Engines with a 280 outdrive. After a reseal and good pressure test, took the boat out. Ran good. Came back and oil had leaked from the outdrive.
At what area did it leak?

Came home drained oil (milky) Pressure?vacuum tested #$^& Good.
A stern drive Pressure test is a Leak-Down test.
Was the gear oil drained during this test, and how long did it hold pressure?

Put thicker oil in it.
Very bad idea!
The AQ series single prop drives incorporate a slinger pump. The slinger pump impeller is die cast aluminum and is driven by the large "driven" gear via one or two spring pins.
Heavy gear oil can cause impeller resistance that may shear the spring pin(s).
If we lose the impeller's function, we lose transmission cooling.

Took it out, same thing. drained again and tested fine. Refilled and ran for a while in driveway.
Outdrive too hot to touch( upper gear box.
The upper gear box is the "transmission".
There is no load on the gear set while in neutral.
The gear oil level is up and into the transmission gear case enough to splash lubricate gears/bearings.
There should be no issues operating this in the driveways while on the garden hose water supply.

Took the dipstick out and milky oil was boiling out. It being in neutral, only the upper box was turning
That is correct.
The sliding sleeve must be engaged in order for the lower unit prop shaft to spin.

I am assuming the problem has to do with the box itself or the shimming. The drive was apart for a very long time and then may have been mixed up.
You say "shimming". Has someone messed with or made a change to the shim value?

I am trying to check my shims with out a proper depth micrometer. I am over shimming and checking gap with feeler gauge. This should be an accurate method of measuring the total gap in the bearing house. The book wants 010 mm to be ADDED to this distance for the correct shimming. the box seams to me to be under shimmed.
My question.
I am correct then I am adding clearance for the bearing not loading it up by adding shims?
No offense, but I believe that you may not be understanding the shimming process here.
The "driven gear" bearings are Angular Contact Bearings.
You will be shimming underneath the bearing retainer between it and the Intermediate housing bore.

I was going to over shim this and put it back together and see if it heats up.
If you over-shim between the transmission and the Intermediate housing, the O-rings will NOT seal properly.
Over-shimming is done ONLY to determine what shim value is necessary when fully clamped into position.

********

I would suggest that you:
.......... check all clearances within the transmission.
......... build a copy of my puller tool and remove the prop shaft/bearing carrier and check to see if the slinger pump impeller pins have sheared.

.