Jeff, It just doesn't sound right to me!
When the sleeve/cup do not engage, it is generally the first/initial engagement. That is when the gear oil viscosity is heavier.
(you may need to understand the cone clutch system in order for that to make sense to you)
Please take my suggestion re; checking that the shifter unit, the cable, and the linkage AT THE DRIVE are all centered, and correctly installed.... this includes checking the cable brackets (both at shifter and at the Intermediate housing) as I mentioned earlier!
Sounds as though you have a Clymers or Seloc manual. Use those for packing material, or in the Corn Field outhouse, and pick yourself up an OEM manual.
You'll need a hand type impact driver tool to remove the drain plug.
Re-Install the same way!
Before removing the dip stick for venting, remove the drain plug and catch the first few ounces of drive oil in a clean container and examine it!
Look for metallic residue while doing this!
If no residue or water is present, install NEW Drain Plug O-ring, and re-install drain plug... tighten with impact tool.... but gently!
DO NOT re-use any O-rings on this drive!
If the oil is milky or dirty, you have seal, gasket or O-ring issues.
Best to re-seal the entire drive and start your season off with confidence!
Have a pressure/vacuum leak down test performed on the drive w/ the oil drained!
15-20 minutes minimum!
Check the dip stick for correct oil level.... the OEM manual will give you this information.
BTW, the oil level will be half way up the flat.... but ONLY after the drive has been at rest vertically for 5-6 minutes! (the dip stick reads from within a hollow vertical shaft)
Do not use OMC or Mercruiser specified oil unless you know what you are doing.
Do not use GL 5 in the single prop drive! (has to do with the slinger pump)
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