Logo
FULL SITE MENU

V6 220 HP Mercury

B

boebs

Member
"Hi,

Can anyone tell me wha

"Hi,

Can anyone tell me what year this motor is the serial number is B176659 is't a V6 220 Hp Mercury
thanks
Bruce"
 
"This was one of Merc's ve

"This was one of Merc's very early ECU (computer controlled) motors.

The ECU is no longer available so if it ever fried you have an expensive paperweight (and sold for almost 2 grand when you could get it).

Likewise, this is an early "injected" engine. Many parts are discontinued. The injectors which are still available go for about 300 bucks a piece and this baby has 6 of them.

And this obviously wasn't a popular model, or Merc had issues with it since it was only produced in 1986 and 1987 - so kinda an orphan. Merc has done lot's of "experiments" over the years - some produced outstanding motors - others were quickly cast aside and forgotten about...

A couple things to consider when determining whether or not this is something you want to take on.

However, any running outboard is a good outboard. Personally though, I would put very little value in a motor such as this. If running would consider about 500 bucks the most I would give for it - if it developed a fuel or ignition problem it could quickly become cost prohibitive to fix..."
 
"Thanks Graham,
Do you know i

"Thanks Graham,
Do you know if there are any built in alarms on this motor, Temp, oil, etc. Or is there a manual giving a rundown on the motor?
thanks
Bruce"
 
"Hey Bruce,
yes, th

"Hey Bruce,
yes, there was a number of (innovations) on this model.

Feeding the ECU and alarm module was a Detonation controller (a "box" with a number of wires) which was designed to prevent detonation in the cylinders when they are "not" supposed to fire, A Water Sensor Module (another box with wires) that monitors water flow to the powerhead - there was a Temp sensor, a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and an Oil Injection warning module.

I don't have specific details, but if their oil module is like on later models it will only tell you when the oil supply is "low" NOT whether the injection is functioning or not. This can lead to an issue where there is oil in the tank but it's going nowhere - so no alarm even though there is a significant problem."
 
"Thanks again Graham,
How rel

"Thanks again Graham,
How reliable is the oil injection for these motors? Would it not be better to disconnect the oil injection and pre mix the oil and fuel as with the older motors?
Cheers
Bruce"
 
"If it's working I would l

"If it's working I would leave it alone.

It is a gear driven system. The pump shaft has teeth on one end which goes into the crankcase and is driven by a gear on the crankshaft. So really, unless that gear gets stripped somehow, the pump should be "pumping".

Works almost identical to the waterpump (very similar design).

Oil injection gets blamed alot for everything that goes wrong with outboards and 99 percent of the time it can be tracked back to improper maintenance (and not of the oil system either).

I have a 1986 Evinrude with OMC's VRO oil injection, it's working fine and I see no reason to disconnect it. On the other hand, I don't think mixing gas/oil is a huge hassle either.

I guess it really comes down to "peace of mind" - some guys sleep better knowing that "they" mixed the oil/gas, others like myself, trust the oiler to do it's job (but to be fair, OMC does have an alarm that tells you if the oiler isn't working).

I still "personally" would trust Merc's system to the do the job - once I had confirmed it's pumping oil, of course..."
 
"The simple way is to kill the

"The simple way is to kill the ignition (with kill switch if equipped, or just remove the plugs and ground the wires) then disconnect the oil line (outbound) which feeds the fuel pump.

Then crank over the motor and observe the oil that gets pumped out of the line.

That shows you that the oil pump is in fact working if you get "some oil".

If you want a precise test, it's a little more complicated.

For that one you actually run the outboard on "muffs" or a test tank. Using a portable tank mixed at 50:1, you actually run the engine for a 3 minute period.

The oil line is disconnected as in the above test and the fitting it was removed from is blocked off to keep air out while running.

The motor is then run for 3 minutes and the oil is allowed to pump into a graduated cylinder (test tube).

In that test you are looking for it to pump about 8.2 cc's of oil +/- 10% in 3 minutes."
 
"1 ml = 1 cc so 8.2 [img][/img

"1 ml = 1 cc so 8.2
"
 
Back
Top