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uneven fuel consumption 2001 8.1

slow cruiser

Regular Contributor
2001 Tiara 3100 with 8.1's, 400 hours. The port engine uses more fuel than the starboard. I ran a scan on both engines @ 3200 rpm. Other than fuel flow rate 15.00/14.58 and throttle percentage 44.3/39.6 the only difference is IAC position 215/152 and IAC follower 137/121 port/starboard. Both engines start right up cold or warm, idle right at 650 and go up and down smoothly from idle to cruise @ 3200 rpm.
Both props were conditioned by Prop Scan, no vibration.
From what I read about the IAC valve a problem with it isn't indicated.
Anyone have an idea?
 
As I read the data, the port engine is burning more fuel because it's working harder--the motor is operating as it should. The problem is with the HULL somehow; something is dragging the port motor down.

Try the Fastjeff Dyno Test to see what's happening. To wit: Set the throttles at some convenient rpm--say 3,200--then open one throttle all the way and note the rpm achieved. Return to the 3,200 rpm, try the other engine, and note the result. They should tach out the same. If not.... Further analysis is required.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the reply, I will do when I get back down later this week. I bought the boat 2 years ago. When on the hard I haven't noticed anything obvious with the hull. I'll also check how the trim tabs are set.
I did clean the flame arrester last year.
 
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What you provided isn't enough to go on....big missing piece is MAP reading.

FWIW, the FJDT will give you a decent assessment of each engine's relative performance...try it.

Finally, your burn rate difference isn't significant...I'd suggest you use the history data and look at long term trends; ideally measure both at launch time with a clean bottom...and be aware that fuel consumed will vary with many different variables...
 
What you provided isn't enough to go on....big missing piece is MAP reading.

FWIW, the FJDT will give you a decent assessment of each engine's relative performance...try it.

Finally, your burn rate difference isn't significant...I'd suggest you use the history data and look at long term trends; ideally measure both at launch time with a clean bottom...and be aware that fuel consumed will vary with many different variables...

To add to this. If your map is not starting off with an accurate Baro reading for your altitude the whole fuel curve will be off. The baro readings at key on engine off should be the same on both engines.
 
MAP readings during scan were port-3.5 volts, stbd-3.47 volts. This is the only MAP value on the scan.
The BARO reading was port-29.7, stbd-30. This @3200, I will check with key on engine off, also do the FJDT then.
 
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You need to find out what the atmospheric pressure is where you have the boat. When you key on the engine the map takes a Barometric reading to determine air density and adjusts your fuel curve accordingly.

Here at the Jersey Shore our Baro readings are around 14.6/7


If your map is reading a high Baro at key up it will think you are below your actual altitude and the fuel curve will be rich.

You need to check both engines. Your other engine that burns less fuel may be running lean which will be cause by a low Baro reading.

If all these readings are normal, your half a gallon differential is not even worth mentioning.
 
Sunday morning the BP was 30.1, first thing I'll do when I'm back on the boat is check the readings with the engines off.
Thanks for the info, I'm beginning to understand. Last year the fuel burn difference was more. Since then I've done several things to the engines, mostly PM, grounds, filters, fluids, flush. Now the two engines run more in sync and readings are normal. The previous owner paid a lot of money for very marginal service.
 
Finally did the FJDT. The Starboard engine responded smoothly, went to 4700 rpms. The port engine didn't respond as smoothly, only went to 4400 rpms. I was getting the check engine light around 3200 rpms, did not leave a code. Shut down engine, restarted without the light. I cleaned the grounds on the ignition coils which reduced the MIL but did not eliminate it. Could it be a coil or the harness? Fuel line pressure is within spec. New fuel filter, old one looked clean.
 
Do a Google search under "Pirate4x4 MEFI" Carefully read the article, and then download the MEFI manual and browse though that (It is around 300 pages!). This will give you a good understanding of the system and how the sensors interact. Also some nice trouble shooting charts that will be useful in the future.

Like Chris, I am not sure you have much of a problem. One thing you might look at very closely, however, is the plug colors to see if you have some cylinders that are very lean or very rich. The computer determines how long the injectors stay on, but the actual fuel flow is also a function of fuel rail pressure and individual injector flow. The latter can vary down with clogs (full or partial) or up with incomplete shut off. Boats that operate only seasonally can easily develop injector flow issues when laid up. I sent mine out for cleaning and flow testing. I had to replace two that could not be made right and now the engines run much better.
 
I did have the injectors cleaned. I have the manual, just have to go over it more closely. My main concern now is the check engine light, seems to be an issue with the ignition coils. Thanks for the reply.
 
the earlier MEFI's really don't monitor the coil function but focus on the ignition control module's behavior.....when the MIL turns on, the computer has detected some 'out of bounds' condition and most critical codes store the DTC....if you can't retrieve any code, its possible the issue is intermittent and really does go away with reduced RPM....the only way to find th Isses(s) is to have the scanner hooked up during a test run....
 
I did do a scan while the alarm was on and everything was normal. The IAC was high but it always is. We just finished a trip and there was no alarm on the cruise up or back, only while we were doing short trips in between. After I cleaned the coil grounds the alarm was less frequent, which is why I mentioned them. It sounds like a bad contact/wire/plug but it never happens at less than 2800 rpm. Perplexing!!!
 
OK, rereading the posts the two things that really stand out are that you need a higher throttle % on the port engine to achieve the same rpm (3200) and the the famous FJDT test indicates that port is not achieving the same power as starboard at WOT. I would proceed with some confidence that you either have a dead cylinder (ignition or injector) or perhaps a leaky one (burnt exhaust valve or slow closing valve). This would explain everything and while the power reduction would usually occur at all rpms, either problem could only show up only at higher rpms. Also, from experience I can tell you that dead cylinders are very hard to detect by noting a power reduction at lower rpms (the boat speed helps keep the weak engine turning) or by listening at any rpm, although in my boat they can be detected at idle by a rattle in the flex plate.

A bad injector is unlikely since you had them serviced, and since that should not increase fuel consumption on that engine.

So if you buy all this you can start by doing a compression test (which will point out the most likely valve problem (a burnt one), and will allow you to inspect the plugs). This would be my choice. Or since you believe the ignition is suspect, you could start by inspecting to insure each plug wire is firmly attached and there is no carbon tracking or cracks in the distributor cap. Then move on to swapping ignition components (coils, distributor caps, wires) between engines to see if the problem moves (or simply goes away since removal and reinstallation on the other side sometimes corrects connection issues). One of those two approaches will likely identify the problem.
 
The rattle, combined with the other symptoms, is almost a sure sign you have a dead cylinder. Previous advice applies. Me, I would start with a compression test as it identifies the valve problem, if that is it, and by comparing plug colors should tell you which hole is dead, no matter what the cause. If you know the cylinder that is bad, it makes it easier to run down the ignition issues. Or you could swap out a known good coil from the other engine and eliminate that first. Good news is that the rattle will make it easy to know if you have nailed it without having to get underway for high speed tests.

Good luck.
 
Um, I guess the "swap coil" suggestion with your engine does not really work if you don't know which cylinder is missing. Which brings you back to looking at plugs. And while you have them out you might as well check compression. Nothing is easy with boats. You heard it here first!
 
The diagnostic manual states the RPM and MAP values mainly determine the air/fuel mixture. RPM looks good on scanner, MAP is an easy switch between engines. Easy things first. After the switch the rattle was gone, just an intermittent 'thump'. Bought a new MAP sensor and this is gone, engine now purrs. I was not able to run at cruise to see if this is set, this weekend will.
I wanted to do a compression check but the unit I have does not work on the recessed plug holes on these engines. Which one does work on this engine?
 
Easy things first is always good. I don't get why the MAP sensor would cause your symptoms but if that switch out solves the problem, then enjoy the boating.

If you still have the lack of power using the FastJeffDT, then you will be back to looking for the miss. Again, if you carefully inspect the plugs you should be able to find the bad cylinder. Once identified you should be able to fairly quickly narrow it down to ignition (the most likely suspect - either coil, plug wire or the plug itself), compression (bad valve) or lack of fuel (clogged, failed or disconnected injector). Parts swaps with the good engine until you find it are the way to go.

I don't know how your compression tester fits on your engine but I would think the local auto parts store could advise you.
 
It is notable that when the MAPs were switched the port engine improved, the starboard didn't change, which circumstance you previously noted can happen. It had to be an issue of a corroded contact (plug).
For a compression tester I am getting one with the rubber plug end.
 
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