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Tying to avoid very difficult work - backflush the motor without removing lower unit ?

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phil2

New member
I bought a 60 hp Johnson motor, Model # J60TLCEA, last fall. It had not been used for about 2 years. First thing I did was to install new impeller in water pump. Old impeller was intact. Motor started and ran well with muffs. A good stream of water came thru tell-tale tube before winterizing. When I started motor this spring (early), water came from tell-tale briefly, then stopped completely. Checked for clogged tell-tale hose -- none! Removed fitting coming from head, to which tell-tale hose is attached, then started motor. No water seems to be reaching the head. The water intake on lower unit seems to be clear of debris, etc.

Is there any way to backflush the motor without removing lower unit (removing the shift connector rod is next to impossible due to its location)? Any suggestions?
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

If in the water or a barrel, water level must be above water pump area, otherwise the pump could draw air.

If on a flushette, the water must be on full force.
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

If you are having a tough time with the removal of lower unit ( shift rod ) you may be using the wrong technique.-------------Some are just one hitch pin to pull with a pair of needle nose pliers and a push on the crank to release the rod.
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

Thanks for your input. My shift linkage connects at top with a bolt that is next to impossible to reach. I had it off last fall when I replaced the impeller. I wish it were as simple as pulling a pin out.
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

I think you need to revisit your procedure on pulling the lower unit off.--------------Do you have the manual??----------It has never been complicated to take the lower unit off a 3 cylinder!!--------------------If on your motor part # 87 is a hitch pin, then the lower comes off in a jiffy.------------------Visit the parts book on here or --------shop.evinrude.com-----------
 
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Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

Thanks joereeves. I did not have water pressure high enough. Had read various opinions that needed to be careful
doing that as it could cause damage to impeller, etc. I do have another question -- I noticed water coming out around
propeller while running on muffs. Is this normal? I had not noticed that before. Gear oil was changed last fall and
old oil was free of water.
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

Racerone, I appreciate your willingness to help me. I do have a manual (Clymer) which does not cover this question in detail. The shift linkage rod comes up out of lower unit, makes a slight twist to the left, then turns again into
what looks like a minature battery cable clamp. The rod enters that clamp which is tightened by a bolt -- not a pin --
that holds the linkage secure but able to move up-and-down. As I said earlier, I have had the shift rod linkage loose and lower unit off and removing the linkage attachment is a hard job. Thanks again.
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

Sorry, but taking the lower unit off a 3 cylinder motor like your has never been a problem or hard to do !!---------from 40 years of outboard repair experience.------Time to look / listen / learn.
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

Phil..... Look closely at the shift linkage on the engine. The shift cable end is attached to the linkage of course. Follow the linkage (main shift rod) in to a point whereas it enters the swivel area (nylon bushing). If there is a snap in type clevis link inserted thru the linklage rod at that point, remove it..... then push the shift linkage towards the other side of the engine to have the engagement pin disengage from the lower unit shift rod.

If on that model there is no Snap In Type Clevis Pin, look very closely at the shift linkage under the bottom carburetor. On one side or the other, there will be a 3/8" hex head shoulder bolt that has a screwdriver slot in it. Removing that bolt releases the lower unit shift rod. This hard to get at bolt can be easily removed using a long 1/4" Drive Extension with a universal 3/8" flex socket (to loosen it), and a long flexible mechanics tool to grab and hold the bolt to remove and insert it.

There is no need in either case to remove the starter or bottom carburetor..... only items needed are proper tools and a little patience. Let us know what you find.
 
Re: Tying to avoid very difficult work

Thanks, Joe. Mine is the type of linkage you described, having no snap-in clevis pin. I removed it once before but did not figure a way to get the socket on the bolt -- had to remove it with a very short 3/8" box end. Having increased the water pressure, using hose and muffs, my tell-tale now shows a good stream. However, next time I do have to undo and remove the shift linkage, I'll try what you have suggested. Thanks again.
 
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