Logo
FULL SITE MENU

TROUBLE.....Boat Taking on Water.....Engine issue?

C

chadley58

Member
Yesterday I launched my boat (1996 Crownline 182BR with 4.3 Merc). It started right up and we went over to a dock with no issues. Kids got in and we started out on the water. After running 3/4 throttle for 5 mins the motor started sounding weird, so I backed it off to neutral and took a look in the engine hatch. It was filled with water. I had put the plug in before launch, so I knew it wasn't a plug issue. I immediately turned around and headed back, but we were taking on quite a bit of water and the engine started smoking a bit. The kids were getting a little nervous, to say the least.

Once we go hooked up with a passerby that towed us in, I cut the engine and the bilge started to keep up and actually started to reduce the water level.
So now for the real question....what the heck is wrong? Last Fall, I winterized as I did the previous season....I borrowed a friend's winterizer kit, ran the engine for a minute with the antifreeze flowing through the muffs, then turned it off. That is all I did. As I read about this issue more today I realize that I probably didn't winterize it properly, but it is too late now to go back and undo it. What should I be checking first? Freeze plugs? (where are they?) burst cooling hose? What else?

Tomorrow I will run the engine in the driveway with the muffs and try to determine where the water is coming from. But after that, I pretty much have no clue. HELP!!!!
 
prolly either a pushed out core plug ( if you are lucky ) or a cracked block, or both.........think when you run it on a hose you will see the problem pretty quickly.
 
Thanks Mid. Please give me the details of what each issue would look like. If it is a core plug, what would the water leakage look like? It if is cracked block, what would that look like? Not trying to be stupid here, just want to make sure I understand what I am seeing. The will likely end up with a professional, I just want to know what I am getting into.
 
If you look on the sides of the engine block below the exhaust manifolds you will see several round basically disks in the block.....they are what are mistakingly but often called freeze plugs........if it's a crack in the block depending on the severity it will look like a fracture line along the block itself....you should see a rust line or water tracks below the crack......
 
Never take a friends advice on how to winterize your motor
go here http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...3-4-3-Mercruiser-exhaust-water-coming-in-boat and watch post 14
And you do need some instruction when putting a boat into the water. At home you test run everything checking for bilge pump operation ,manual
and automatic, leaks ,belts, hoses, clamps, safety equipment etc.
Once launched you pull the hatches checking for any leaks ,anything out of the ordinary, start engine ,again checking for anything out of the ordinary,
shifting operation ,etc
Then and only then you load people
 
Thanks Doctur.

I did take some precautions....but obviously not enough. I ran it in my driveway for 10 mins, checked belts, operated bilge pump, and did a visual inspection. I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. I also made sure I had all of the safety equipment onboard.....thankfully. This has definitely taught me a lesson to a more thorough check once launched, though.
 
a popped core plug would have been obvious on a hose so would split hose. if there was no leakage then suspect main bellows ,shift boot
 
Agree w/Bt Dr...cracked bellows will flood a boat quickly...easy to check; raise the drive and get on your back w/a flash light.
 
The op stated once he got hooked to a tow boat he killed engine and bilge pump was able to keep up and reduce water level........that sounds like discharge water from engine and not a bellows.....maybe I made a bad assumption
 
Once he launched the boat it had to be taking on water...it happened to me once--cracked bellows flooded bilge. It will be interesting to get the final result to the problem.
 
Sorry it took so long to reply. I got sick. Ugh. It is a plug for sure. I took a few pics. One of the pics is the side that the plug is still intact (I think). Then I took a video with the engine running and the water pouring out of the open spot.

I couldn't find anything down in the bilge that looked like a plug of any kind. Not sure where it went.
 
West marine has the plug kit for $26 that includes all of the plugs. I will go pick it up this morning and pop the front plug on and start it up.

If water is escaping into the oil, does that mean the levels of oil will be high? Or how can I know otherwise?
 
chadley58 said:
If water is escaping into the oil, does that mean the levels of oil will be high? Or how can I know otherwise?
Click to expand...

You will see two things. One, yes oil level will increase but, two, the biggest telltale will be that the dip stick will look like you are measuring a chocolate milkshake after running the engine. If it were a closed system then you would also likely see an oily film in the coolant as well.
 
Should you by some miracle to have dodged a bullet and the block is intact, and should you decide to winterize it yourself:
1 flush engine, fog engine until it stalls
2 open drain plugs and probe the fittings t make sure water flows out
3 remove large hose from therm housing and pour in approx 2 gallons of 50/50 until it comes out the housing
4 pour 1/2 gallon into each manifold hose or untill it comes out exaust
5 reattach hoses
 
correct, air dosent freeze ,but the cast iron still does rust up a bit. The problem area I see is how to pump the air into the engine thru the muffs.

I`m sure someone has invented an adaptor.
 
Bt Doctur said:
correct, air dosent freeze ,but the cast iron still does rust up a bit. The problem I see is how to pump the air into the engine thru the muffs.

I`m sure someone has invented an adaptor.
Click to expand...

We used to winterizevacant houses as part of our work. We uesd compressed air via an adapter to the outside hose bib. We would blow all the lines out, including the water heater and main line to the home then put antifreeze into all the traps and toilet tanks and bowls. In 15 years we never had a single home we winterizef have freeze damage. Two men could do one in 20 minutes and we literally did 200 to 300 homes per year.

Making the adapter to do this is easy and cheap. For the muffs you'll wat the male end of a garden hose, a male air fitting and a screw clamp. Cut the garden hose about 18 inches from the end, put the air fitting into the cut end and clamp it tight. Adapter made, eazy peazy.
The two problems that I see are, 1, the muffs clamping tightly enough to get a good enough seal to blow the air into the engine with enough force to push the water out. The second problem is that there will always be some water left in nooks and cranies. Enough to cause damage, idk, but after this last winter I'm too chicken to find out.
 
Got the core plug kit from west marine and the sealant stuff (not sure what it is called, but the west marine guy knew exactly the issue I am facing). I will put the plug in tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.

interesting point to note, my friend that lent me the antifreeze winterizer kit and showed me how to do has my same exact problem. Only his is worse because the leak is in the back of the engine. In addition, he has a 2005 Baja 19' with a v8 that is worth way more than my boat. If his engine is toast I am thinking a replacement engine would be very expensive.

stay tuned
 
Yep, sounds like he popped the core plugs too. up to maybe 10,000.The Mercruiser manual does not even list that procedure to safely winterize a motor.
Why some people persist in re-inventng the wheel. They buy a $20,000 boat but a manual too expensive.

That system will work BUT you must first drain the block and manifolds ,then introduce the A/F thru the muffs. If your going to go thru all of that
why not just drain it and pour it in?
 
Last edited:
well, I installed the core plug and started the engine. Now there is a small water leak coming from a rubber connector which I believe is for the exhaust system. See the video here -- http://youtu.be/M54Cj7EyiFE.

When I ran my engine out on the water and the trouble happened I think I scorched the rubber connector that has 4 large hose clamps on it. I will get the part and replace it. It will be tough as it is near the back of the engine and getting to it is tricky to say the least

Thoughts?
 
Got the 4" exhaust hose yesterday and put it in today. Had to take 1/2 of the engine hatch area apart to get to the exhaust, but I was able to cut out the old and put the new in. Put the hose clamps back on and started the engine up. I ran it for 25 minutes with no leaks. I took two videos to show the engine running from in the boat then behind the boat. They are here: http://youtu.be/0Ev_dCy9Gds http://youtu.be/Vu_9u2Qs7qE.

I really think I dodged a bullet. Having to replace one core plug and a burnedout exhaust hose is not too bad, considering what could have happened.
I plan on taking it out on the water Saturday, so we’ll see howit goes. Thank you everyone for yourposts and taking the time to help me through this.


My friend did not get so lucky. His 2005 Baja he needs a newengine because his engine blocked and exhaust manifolds are cracked. He is looking at a $4,000 rebuild.
 
I am guessing he won't need to winterize this coming year, because they engine will be out of the boat. The following year?.........maybe. :)

I am going to pay someone to do it this year and I will watch them do it. I am a DIY'er in most areas of my life and boating will be no different. Now I will do it the "right" way. Live and learn.
 
Latest (and last) update. Took the boat out on Saturday and it ran great. Checked the water situation at least 1/2 dozen times and we were completely dry. Oil level was good, performance seemed normal.

Thanks again to everyone for your input.
 
chadley58 said:
So now for the real question....what the heck is wrong?
Last Fall, I winterized as I did the previous season....I borrowed a friend's winterizer kit, ran the engine for a minute with the antifreeze flowing through the muffs, then turned it off. That is all I did.

As I read about this issue more today I realize that I probably didn't winterize it properly,
Click to expand...
NO... you certainly did not winterize your engine correctly!

Please take a few minutes and read this article. You'll see why these kits are dangerous in the wrong hands.


chadley58 said:
I am going to pay someone to do it this year and I will watch them do it. I am a DIY'er in most areas of my life and boating will be no different. Now I will do it the "right" way. Live and learn.
Click to expand...
If the person doing this comes even remotely close to one of those silly winterizing kits..... stop, say thank you, and drive away with your boat in tow.

Or.... ask him to deposit $4,500 in an escrow account for possible expenses next coming spring time.


.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top