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Tohatsu MFS6 oil pressure light coming on

agusus

New member
I've been troubleshooting this issue for 3 months now (but our outboard is only lightly used for pushing a dinghy - so the issue started at hour 10 on the motor and it has 20 hours on it now). It's a Tohatsu MFS6 which is mostly new but it was a 2016 floor model that we bought from a going-out-of-business sale (yeah, dumb move, but what's done is done).

Symptom is the oil pressure light comes on at idle throttle (only), after running the engine at load (>=1/2 throttle) for 5-15 minutes (light doesn't come on at idle on a cold engine, after starting). Everything else about the engine looks and sounds great, except that 5% of the time (1 in 20 runs) we get a weird power loss issue at 1/2 throttle - the engine starts jerking and revving like we're losing power or hitting an rpm limiter. That's happened 2 or 3 times and throttling down to < 1/4 throttle makes it go away and gets us home.

First thing I did was check the oil - it was slightly overfilled from when I changed the oil after break-in (I thought oil should be measured with the cap resting on the threads - Tohatsu clarified cap should be screwed in). Reduced oil to sit right at upper mark. That didn't resolve anything.

An outboard mechanic told me it sounds like an overheating issue (would cause the oil to thin out, triggering the pressure sensor and maybe the power loss issue). So I pulled out the thermostat like he suggested and ran outboard at load without thermostat in - oil pressure light never came on and no power loss. Tested thermostat in a hot water bath and it opened at about the right temps, going by the Tohatsu service manual I have on hand. The mechanic said the next thing he would check would be the impeller. So I pulled the lower unit, and the impeller looked perfect. We always get good cooling water telltale flow. I could run it without the thermostat in, but I understand that runs the engine too cool which isn't good in the long-run.

I don't want to continue replacing expensive parts arbitrarily. Already replaced the cheap ones (spark plug, fuel filter) and cleaned the carb, and all the parts have looked pristine and new. I could order a new thermostat, but since it tested fine in the hot water bath I'm not sure that's it? Still hoping to fix this myself - outboard mechanics here are under high demand and don't seem eager to take a small, frustrating job like this.

Does this sound like an overheat issue, fuel issue, or something else? Any clues on how I could narrow it down?
 
Oh also, the oil in it is Sierra 4-stroke marine 10w30. And the fuel has stabilizer in it, and the air vent isn't plugged. Also verified the cooling water intake has no debris in it.
 
Not a big deal that you bought from a dealer going out of business; As long as you are registered for Warranty, you are under Factory warranty, and any dealer can service the motor under warranty. You can use the Dealer Locator function on the Tohatsu website to find a local dealer. Unless you are really remote, there should be several nearby. Your actual model should be MFS6C, which is the current production model, so parts are easy to come by.

On new 4-stroke motors that have not been run hot and hard for hours, the rings are not really seated yet, so you will indeed make oil, especially at low RPM, and especially if the water is cold. I start out with the oil about 1/2 way on the dipstick. Yes, check it after screwing it in all the way. Non-synthetic 10w-30 type FC-W is the best oil for these. Stay away from heavier or full-synthetic oils, which contribute to making oil. Initially, change the oil after about 10 or 20 hours; every 50 after that (or annually if you don't put 50 hours on in a season).

Yes, overheating could cause low oil pressure, but doubtful in your case; It would need to be really really hot. You can get a cheap IR thermometer at Harbor Freight or similar, and then no need to test the thermostat; just point the laser at various places on the power head. You would like everything below about 150F. No, don't run with the stat out. The motor will never get hot enough, and you will foul the plug faster. Plus, the back pressure will be wrong, and some areas of the cooling system will actually run too hot. I would not expect a bad wp impeller at your age. While the impellers do dry rot, the Tohatsu impellers are fantastic, and in the cold clean waters of the Great Lakes, we typically go 3 years between wp kit changes. BTW, never change just the impeller; When it's time, do the complete kit. Minimal additional cost, same labor, and it pumps better and lasts longer. If you are running way too lean (doubtful as well), you could run too hot... or if you have the wrong plug installed (should be NGK DCPR6E or the Iridium equivalent, DCPR6EIX. What method did you use to clean the carb?

As for the LED, you either have low oil pressure, or are getting a false LED trigger. If you suspect a false trigger, you can change the sender unit, or the better way is to troubleshoot the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. The LED should come on at about 4 PSI and below, and be off above that. If you do indeed have low oil pressure, you would then troubleshoot why. Wrong oil (not in your case); Too much oil foaming up (always possible); clogged oil intake in the pan (doubtful with a newer motor); Bad oil pump (also doubtful); finally loose bearings (I really doubt that).

Odds are you are getting a false indicator. If the sender wire is damaged and grounding, that will trigger the LED. Something to check. Or, you may have a bad sender (that would be a warranty repair).

Your power issue could be a lack of fuel (due to an air leak or a pinched line or similar). Are you running an external tank, or just the integral tank? Primer hoses do develop o-ring seal leaks, which can allow air in. Also, the EPA type cap can jam and allow too much suction in the tank, so unscrewing the cap 1/2 turn (for testing) would eliminate that problem. If a bad cap, that's covered under warranty. If the motor over-revvs, you could have a spun rubber hub in the prop, or you could be ventilating. If the problem happens in turns only, you may be getting air next to the prop... ventilating. Or, if the motor is mounted too high (doubtful, since Japanese motors are about 2" longer than the older US models), you could ventilate. It's also possible that your CD THINKS that you are over speed, and it's kicking in the ESG limiter. That's very rare, but again, if it's a bad CD, that's a warranty item.
 
Thanks! I'll check the oil again and maybe try bringing it down to the 1/2 way mark. I also have an IR probe so will check temp next time. Our plug is a NGK DCPR6E and I gapped it to the spec in the manual. I cleaned the carb using spray carb cleaner. I know that's not as good as the more pro methods that dealerships may use. It looked pretty clean to begin with though.

We have an external fuel tank. The primer bulb is a brand new Moeller one because the one I had before started UV cracking after only 2 months. The fuel hose looks okay, but I wonder whether it could be leaking air somewhere. Ventilation is an interesting idea. The power surge issue happens in straight line motoring though, and the ventilation plate is always under water. There's a fair amount of turbulence behind our dinghy (a PortaBote) though. But the issue has happened in flat water (but 95% of the time doesn't happen). It hasn't happened in a month / 20 uses now, so quite possibly it's unrelated to the oil light issue.

Thanks again, I'll give your ideas a try and keep an eye on it.
 
I have the same problem in my tohatsu 15 and now my son just bought a brand new 20 hp tohatsu and it's doing exactly the same. Run hard for 5 to 10 mins and slow down, red light comes on and motor goes into limp mode UNTIL restarting motor. Tohatsu have a problem here
 
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