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Tj90tlets fuel mixture (air/fuel)

Correct there is no mixture adjustment on them.----Other than assuming carburetor trouble what other trouble shooting has been done ?----How long have you owned it ?----Did the problems develop suddenly ?
 
I have redone the entire fuel system. New line, new filter, clean carbs. I recently bought it from someone moving off the lake. I did change from a VRO to a fuel pump.
 
Did you make sure your "choke" is set correctly. The primer solenoid has a red plastic top that can be turned to manually bypass the carbs. Obviously that would make it run rich. I believe it should be turned with the thin end facing port. Maybe someone with a bit more knowledge can confirm or correct that.
 
There are two small hoses running from the Fuel Primer Solenoid to either the intake manifold or to the top rear portion of the carburetors. Remove one of those hoses (either one), then pump the fuel primer bulb up hard while observing the detached hose. If fuel flows out of it in any quantity, it is bypassing the carburetors to overload the engine with fuel.

You say the RED lever of the fuel primer solenoid is in the RUN position, this being aimed directly at the other end of the solenoid... is this correct?

Are you sure that the carburetor jets are correct and in the proper position?

The only other access fuel would have to the crankcase would be if the fuel pump diaphragm was faulty and fuel was leaking thru it.

If all of the above is as it should be and your problem isn't that the engine is running really rough due to excess fuel being introduced to the crankcase... BUT... rather you're simply of the mindset that you're burning too much fuel, that could be caused by improperly set linkages (link & Sync), or a mismatch of engine to propeller. Try to explain more thoroughly your complaint/problem.

Your compression of 112 psi per cylinder is fine. The terminology of "good spark" needs work.

Spark test: With all spark plugs removed, a test must be performed using a tester whereas a 7/16" air gap can be set for the spark to jump across. The actual spark must jump that air gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? NOTE that the 7/16" air gap is important... nothing else will do.

What make spark plugs are you using and at what gap?
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(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

This can obviously be modified to a 6 or 8 cylinder setup tester.
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According sealoc manuals everything appear to be in right position and right place spark test was I had one bad plug wire. I will see the primer is still dumping fuel after it starts. Maybe is drink gas at a normal rate. That again for the help
 
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