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Timing adjustment

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BBokern

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Hi guys, I have a 1982 evinrude 115hp. I was testing it the other day after changing water pump and while checking full throttle it popped and started unhinged rough. I cut the engine and then realized the water clamp had slipped off. Now it runs rough and then quits. If I keep pumping fuel bulb it will keep running still not quite smooth. I rebuilt the fuel pump and it still only runs on the fuel I squeeze in and then quits. Any thoughts? Thanks. Also, where would the trim and tilt relay be located? It's 1978 Rebel bass boat
 
BBokern said:
How do i check that (flywheel key)? I am a bit of a novice as you can tell.
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Remove the flywheel. If the key is sheared, install a new factory key (307480), NOT one from a hardware store! The flywheel nut must absolutely be torqued to 105 foot pounds. The flat edge of the key must be aligned vertical with the engine... NOT with the crankshaft taper!

If the key was sheared, clean the tapers of the flywheel and the crankshaft.

DO NOT ever run the engine full throttle without a propeller... nor run it on a flushette full throttle. You risk a run away engine that avoids definition. It turns into a deisel system that continues to increase in rpms and by the time you figure out how to stop it, connecting rods will be flying out the sides of the crankcase!

DO NOT ever exceed 1500 rpm when running on a flushette, or in neutral, or in gear without a prop. The high rpms are only for a rig in the water and in gear.
 
See the post entitled:


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I also had a Heart attach ! Engine Keep running EVEN if I unplug all spark plugs
 
joereeves said:
Remove the flywheel. If the key is sheared, install a new factory key (307480), NOT one from a hardware store! The flywheel nut must absolutely be torqued to 105 foot pounds. The flat edge of the key must be aligned vertical with the engine... NOT with the crankshaft taper!

If the key was sheared, clean the tapers of the flywheel and the crankshaft.

DO NOT ever run the engine full throttle without a propeller... nor run it on a flushette full throttle. You risk a run away engine that avoids definition. It turns into a deisel system that continues to increase in rpms and by the time you figure out how to stop it, connecting rods will be flying out the sides of the crankcase!

DO NOT ever exceed 1500 rpm when running on a flushette, or in neutral, or in gear without a prop. The high rpms are only for a rig in the water and in gear.
Click to expand...




Yes sir, I realize that now. If the key was sheared, the engine would not crank at all would it? Wouldn't the flywheel just spin?
 
BBokern said:
Yes sir, I realize that now. If the key was sheared, the engine would not crank at all would it? Wouldn't the flywheel just spin?
Click to expand...

If the flywheel was slightly loose and the key was completely sheared... yeah, there's a possibility that the flywheel would spin on the crankshaft. However, I've never seen that happen and I've been in this line of work since 1960. What normally happens is that even if the flywheel key shears off completely, the flywheel is still tight enough so that the electric starter is still able to crank over the flywheel/crankshaft assembly.

The key to flywheel alignment of the key is so critical that even a mild shear.... sort of like bending in one edge of it a 1/64" would throw the engine out of time resulting in the spark plugs firing but creating no combustible power.

Your question about the PTT relay location.... I'm sure you know where the PTT assembly is... just follow the wires from the electric motor, that'll lead you to where someone installed it.

Question: Did anyone have the flywheel off that engine and neglect to torque the flywheel nut?
 
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